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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:12 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
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Originally Posted by flyrtim View Post
...
So, can I simply cut off the jst xh balance tap--and using one of the jst wires splice in the the 3 wire UMX connector--shown here? Then I would just cut off the JST connector altogether since balancing and charging happen through the UMX connector
....
This is the best option, no doubt, and for so many reasons. Less resistance (= more amps), less weight, less stuff to stuff inside the bird.

Though what's the gauge of the wires? Maybe you should use the power wires from the JST connector and then bring in the middle wire from the balance tap over to the middle terminal of the UMX connector. That's what I did with my 450mAh GensAces for my Blade 130X.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:33 PM
**I'm Battman**
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Twin Falls, Idaho
Joined Jan 2005
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Thanks Joel!

Enjoyed the vid.
She is very respectable on 2S power.
Rock solid in the air.
CG looks perfect for Hyp 400s & 500s.

I'm still amazed how far things have progressed since the Sukhoi.
KICS again!!

rc
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 12:17 AM
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United States, NM, Santa Fe
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Turboparker and others,

Thrust-to-weight seems to be markedly improved over the V1 - no doubt due to the new 4.9A ESC

what is amp rating on eflu4864 brick (beast3d, carbon cub, geebee) ?

I wonder what the 5030 prop will do with stock motor or if the 2300kv motor with 5043 will help in this plane as well....
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 12:58 AM
"Kneel before Zod!"
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Tacoma, WA. USA
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by RCBABBEL View Post
Stock motor (2500kv)
Stock prop (5x2.75)

Miniaviation 210mah 2s 25c:
Volts - 7.17
Amps - 2.66
Watts - 19.9

Turnigy 260mah 2s 35-70c:
Volts - 7.67
Amps - 2.76
Watts - 22.1

-----------------

I'll keep it short and simple...

Totally unfair to compare a 210mAh to a 260mAh.

rc
I fully understand the difference between the two, I was just trying to share some information with the group. I apologize to anyone who feels their time was wasted by reading my post.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 05:54 AM
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United States, KY, Booneville
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Awesome Video Turboparker thanks for sharing it!!
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 06:34 AM
Way to many airplanes!
Canada, QC
Joined Oct 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
This is the best option, no doubt, and for so many reasons. Less resistance (= more amps), less weight, less stuff to stuff inside the bird.

Though what's the gauge of the wires? Maybe you should use the power wires from the JST connector and then bring in the middle wire from the balance tap over to the middle terminal of the UMX connector. That's what I did with my 450mAh GensAces for my Blade 130X.
That's probably ok because they are 2S battery, but if you do that on a 3S, you cannot mesure accurately the IR of your battery anymore. (if your charger can give you the IR). The difference in wire size is enough to give different values for the outside cells and the middle cells.

Personally, I would keep the red JST plug. That way, you have the best of both world. A battery that can be used in a UMX airplane via the balancing plug, and a battery that can be used with a more typical airplane (with a ESC going to a red JST plug). You're already using a juicier battery, so carrying the little extra weight is not a big factor.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 07:48 AM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyrtim View Post
Turboparker and others,

Thrust-to-weight seems to be markedly improved over the V1 - no doubt due to the new 4.9A ESC

what is amp rating on eflu4864 brick (beast3d, carbon cub, geebee) ?

I wonder what the 5030 prop will do with stock motor or if the 2300kv motor with 5043 will help in this plane as well....
The ESCs are the same on the new AS6410NBL(sbach3D) and EFLU4864(B3D, GeeBee, CC, etc) I've tested the old 2500kv, vs the 3000kv and the 2300kv and the old 2500kv was the weakest. However the one on the S3D "sounds" more powerful. I'm guessing they made some very slight changes to it. Again just a guess though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by flyrtim
...
So, can I simply cut off the jst xh balance tap--and using one of the jst wires splice in the the 3 wire UMX connector--shown here? Then I would just cut off the JST connector altogether since balancing and charging happen through the UMX connector
....
This is the best option, no doubt, and for so many reasons. Less resistance (= more amps), less weight, less stuff to stuff inside the bird.

Though what's the gauge of the wires? Maybe you should use the power wires from the JST connector and then bring in the middle wire from the balance tap over to the middle terminal of the UMX connector. That's what I did with my 450mAh GensAces for my Blade 130X.
If you do this DO NOT JUST CUT THE OLD TAP WIRES!!!!!! If you just cut them you can short the wires. Cut them one at a time and then use tape or something to make sure they do not touch together. Heck even the metal in the scissors will short the wires while cutting if you don't cure them one at a time.

-Brian
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 07:59 AM
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United States, CO, Longmont
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyrtim View Post
Turboparker and others,

Thrust-to-weight seems to be markedly improved over the V1 - no doubt due to the new 4.9A ESC

what is amp rating on eflu4864 brick (beast3d, carbon cub, geebee) ?

I wonder what the 5030 prop will do with stock motor or if the 2300kv motor with 5043 will help in this plane as well....
first thing I will try
should have mine soon!

so what is the proper CG on this one
thanks
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 08:59 AM
when down=up, up=expensive
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United States, VA, Roanoke
Joined Apr 2012
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Maiden report - video to follow

HOLY SMOKES.

She's fun. Go buy one.

Okay, so I didn't have the V1 - was about to pull the trigger when they announced this one. I picked it up last night from the LHS and was really impressed with the looks. I know the color isn't as good for orientation, but blue, black, silver and white, what a handsome paint job. Most of my other 2S planes are red and white, so I needed somethign to spice up the fleet a bit. LOOOONNNGG post here, but you can skip to the parts you want if you aren't interested.


Details: I took her out this a.m. - winds were 5 gusting to 10. flew low rates - 70% on all control surfaces. Expo dialed in at 30% (been flying warbirds, didn't want to put this one into the ground because I was too heavy on the sticks). Battery mounted directly under the split between the hatch and the fuse. Everything stock. 240 mAh 2S Hyperion.

First impressions: Awesome, fantastic, buy one, get it, it's fantastic, no negatives. Did I mention is was worth every penny?

Power is not an issue. In fact, any faster and she'd be a speck before you had time to react. Orientation could be a problem at a long distance, but it wasn't as bad as I feared. It was early morning, sun was low, but I only lost orientation once when I was WAY out (over a busy street, and I also lost control, still not sure what happened but I recovered - see second flight 3:20).

I didn't find her as twitchy as I feared - again, this is really my first aerobatic plane. The rolls are so crisp that you'll see in the video I spent a lot of time doing them and seeing how many she would do. Answer: as many as you want.

Inverted flight is a BREEZE - with the CG just right, no stick input is required. Simply flip her on her back and fly. Knife edges (no SFG's) were surprisingly difficult - I'm used to the GeeBee that I think is more comfortable on any angle except right side up. I had to fight her to keep her locked in, and even when she wasn't trying to roll one way or another, I had a hard time keeping her from pulling around in a turn. Pretty sure this was a function of trim/cg combo, though, not the plane. See below:

CG/trim combo - I have to work on this a bit. I never did get her set up quite right, though I realized after the first 3 flights that I had the CG too far forward, and had trimmed the elevator up - that might explain the battle I had in knife edge.

Landings - Definitely has the "locking in" syndrome that my other AS3X planes do - you really have to point that nose down, otherwise she'll just float along the ground until she drops. Got a little scuff on the bottom of the cowl from my first landing. After that, got a little better. This is not a negative - simply a characteristic.

Aerobatics - first of all, the plane is better than I am, so I have a lot to grow into here. I did notice that the AS3X was noticeable. Did it fight me? Once or twice I actually felt like it did - I've had this thing for 12 hours, though, so at this point I'd be more likely to blame that on the pilot than the system. If it's anything like the GeeBee and Mig, I suspect that I'll learn to predict how the Gyro will react and be able to leverage it vs. fighting it.

I stayed very high, so I apologize that it is a speck most of the time in the video. I'm glad I did, though, because on that second flight, something went very wrong. It got into the sun, I lost orientation, and then I'm fairly convinced the aileron pushrod pushed through the control horn, because you can see at 3:20 her begin a flat spin down, down, down, down right over a busy road. I thought for sure I'd lost her, but the pushrod must have come back through, because suddenly I had control again and brought her back.

I'm posting flight 2 instead of the maiden, since it's a bit more "exciting". More to follow.

Oh, one other thing, when you get one, try this out - get her up a couple mistakes high, cut the throttle and wait till she slows down (point into the wind). Once you've lost forward momentum, give her full back stick/up elevator. Coolest thing in the world - she just drops flat. You could probably land her from 50 feet up dropping vertically right on the runway. Thanks to Brian/Kalmon for this cool trick!

Sbach 342 3d 2nd flight, loss of control at 448 (4 min 49 sec)
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Last edited by whichwaysup; Oct 16, 2012 at 09:09 AM. Reason: wrong time on vid, added the flat landing trick
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:19 AM
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United States, KY, Booneville
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Another awesome Video keep them coming... What cam are you using im in the need of 1....lol
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:22 AM
when down=up, up=expensive
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United States, VA, Roanoke
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Another awesome Video keep them coming... What cam are you using im in the need of 1....lol
An 808 #16 that I bought off of another member here. LOVE it. Couldn't be any easier to use, takes decent vid from the bill of my baseball hat, and is actually light enough that I was able to (barely) fly it around my yard on my stock champ. My UM mustang flew it around even better, though the CG was pretty dicey!

There's a whole thread on here devoted to the 808 cam - READ IT BEFORE you buy one off of Ebay - there are apparently a lot of fakes out there, but the thread here has all the links to the good sellers.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:26 AM
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Cool thanks for the info....
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:27 AM
My hovercraft is full of eels.
USA, TN, Gallatin
Joined Aug 2009
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Never had a plane with a gyro. This will be my first. I hope they arrive at the LHS today. I've had a number of these UMX planes though and my Beast has been the only one that performed to my expectations, which I don't think are very high. I don't ask much of these little planes. Just fly as described.

Sukhoi - weak power, crap battery, short flights
Mustang - fragile, better power but crap battery and short flights
4-Site - miserable power, crap battery, short flights, has never once flown as advertised, breaks just by looking at it.
Beast - Perfect. Flies as advertised with stock setup. No complaints.
Sbach - Short range compared to others, elevator servo has given me trouble in the past but not lately.

I'm hoping for the best with this gyro thing.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:31 AM
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East Bethel, MN USA
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Thanks for the kind words, guys! Looks like it's going to be another great day for flying. I plan to spend most of the day at the field. Packs are charging.....

Regarding the CG - the airframe hasn't changed, so the sweet spot on the S3D is the same as it is on the V1. The actual number isn't the important thing - how the plane handles is what's important, here. Unless you're a beginner or low-time pilot - just slap the battery in near or at the rear of the compartment & fly. Then simply use the NSRCA (National Society of Radio Controlled Aerobatics) flight-trimming guide for aerobatic planes to fine-tune the CG for neutral handling. For details & a downloadable copy of the guide, see my blog thread on flight-trimming aerobatic planes: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1361350

Here's a bit of info regarding flight-times:

My first flight was about 4:40 in duration & it consumed 94 mAh. That equates to approximately 9:30 to the 80% discharge point with a Hyp 240, or 12:50 with a TP 325. My second flight was of similar duration, but it consumed 119 mAh. That equates to approximately 7:30 to the 80% discharge point with a Hyp 240, or 10:10 with a TP 325. Of course, flight-times will be considerably shorter when flying an aggressive aerobatic routine - especially 3D.

Joel
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:32 AM
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BTW - forgot to add this, but worth calling out in a separate post. BEFORE YOU FLY, you may want to add a small piece of scotch tape to the bottom of the cowl on the obtrusion (vent?). If you botch a landing, it will be the first thing that gets scraped.
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