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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:13 AM
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TurboRacer's Avatar
United States, CT, Waterbury
Joined Oct 2002
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I am using the 2300/5043 combo too - my favorite combo for the UMX planes.. Super silent, good power.. I liek it.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:33 AM
Can't fly 3D for toffee ...
United Kingdom, Taunton
Joined Dec 2012
1,184 Posts
Would you believe my luck?

When I looked at the 2300kv again, it already had a 5043 attached! When the seller said it was from a post damaged plane I sort of presumed a new engine but I guess not! Anyway, an engine, prop adapter and 5043 for 9 is looking good. Firewall is not right but repairable if I want to use it in the T-28.

I have just fitted it in my Sbach and the before and after engine noise is unbelievable. So quiet! Can't wait for the winds to die down (a week maybe ) to try it.

Just need to find out if a 2500 will run on 1S or not.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:50 AM
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kalmon's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
3,671 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoAround View Post
Thanks Brian. The T-28 is a bit of a mess, hence already has the CF rod! I will have to look into the wing section conversion. Do you think the 2500kv would run at half thrust on 1S? I have a few very nice Miniaviation 190mAh I would like to keep using and would be happy with a reliable brushless version of what I have now. I already have the Sbach and Stryker 180 for speed and mainly fly the T-28 slowly in small spaces. It's brushed motor must be nearly dead now as it needs a 'hand swing' to get going!
Well the 2500kv will run on 1S however I doubt the plane would be flyable. really need 2S to get enough thrust to fly from. As far as the wing conversion you can buy a replacement wing and just flip it upside down and get a symmetrical airfoil. I've heard people have had pretty good luck with that, however I'd guess that just taking some depron and tracing the wing camber and then cutting a couple "ribs" and then laying a piece flat across the bottom would also be really easy.

-Brian
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:53 AM
Can't fly 3D for toffee ...
United Kingdom, Taunton
Joined Dec 2012
1,184 Posts
Thanks Brian. I will continue to think about it. For now, I am stoked to have the 2300/5043 plus spare prop adapter for so little and a spare engine in the box. I think the T-28 will find itself brushless at some point though.

Quick Q: Without the spacer, the 5043 was almost touching the foam. I have put the spacer in now but wondered which is best.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 10:04 AM
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kalmon's Avatar
United States, MI, Grand Traverse
Joined Oct 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoAround View Post
Thanks Brian. I will continue to think about it. For now, I am stoked to have the 2300/5043 plus spare prop adapter for so little and a spare engine in the box. I think the T-28 will find itself brushless at some point though.

Quick Q: Without the spacer, the 5043 was almost touching the foam. I have put the spacer in now but wondered which is best.
Wonder which "what" is best?

Do you mean better with or without the spacer? I'm pretty sure you want it on.

-Brian
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Last edited by kalmon; Jan 31, 2013 at 10:34 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 10:24 AM
Can't fly 3D for toffee ...
United Kingdom, Taunton
Joined Dec 2012
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Sorry for my bad English. I mean, am I better to use the spacer or not? Prop misses by under half a millimetre if I don't.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 10:25 AM
Registered User
United States, FL, Eustis
Joined Oct 2012
434 Posts
The 5043 fits on without the spacer almost perfectly. I couldn't imagine that it would fit properly with it on.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 10:54 AM
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United States, NC, Lexington
Joined Jul 2012
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Originally Posted by GoAround View Post
Sorry for my bad English. I mean, am I better to use the spacer or not? Prop misses by under half a millimetre if I don't.
You have to use the spacer. Without it the screw that holds the prop on will not tighten against the prop allowing it to spin on the adapter. Prop spinning on the adapter = little or no thrust.
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 02:48 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,954 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoAround View Post
.....I think the T-28 will find itself brushless at some point though.......
No need to re-invent the wheel, though. Many people have done bl conversions on the XP and other UMs. 1s dd systems don't perform any better than a strong stock setup. In fact, they're often down on performance a bit. You need 2s to get better performance than stock with a dd bl setup. Also, the UMX motors simply don't spin fast enough on 1s, and they're rather heavy for the 1s airframes anyway. Geared bl is the only way to go on 1s if you want decent performance.

Check out this new 1s bl UM conversion that uses the stock UM gearbox & and the inrunner tail motor from the new brushless mCPX! They're getting way more thrust than the stock brushed setup with minimal weight gain: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1#post23977043

Joel
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Last edited by turboparker; Jan 31, 2013 at 05:03 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 04:01 PM
Can't fly 3D for toffee ...
United Kingdom, Taunton
Joined Dec 2012
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Thanks for pointing out that thread Joel - I've subscribed. I'm clear now - a 1S BL geared helicopter tail rotor or 2S BL using the 2500kv and maybe some wing section mods.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:01 AM
Registered User
United States, FL, Eustis
Joined Oct 2012
434 Posts
The right aileron servo on my Sbach is twitching when it is left at its midpoint. If I apply movement in either direction the twitching stops and it holds steady. Also while the twitching isn't constant it is does do it quite a bit. I have already tried to Deox it and the problem persists. Anybody know what might be wrong other than simply a bad servo? Servos aren't that expensive so it isn't that big of a deal to replace it, but would like to avoid having it be grounded in the meantime if possible.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:08 AM
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turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Originally Posted by AustinG View Post
The right aileron servo on my Sbach is twitching when it is left at its midpoint. If I apply movement in either direction the twitching stops and it holds steady. Also while the twitching isn't constant it is does do it quite a bit. I have already tried to Deox it and the problem persists. Anybody know what might be wrong other than simply a bad servo? Servos aren't that expensive so it isn't that big of a deal to replace it, but would like to avoid having it be grounded in the meantime if possible.
You may be able to fix it by disassembling the servo & cleaning the resistive strip & wiper with an abrasive such as a clean pencil eraser, and then following-up with a shot of DeoxIT. Otherwise, it's probably time for a new servo. How many hours on the airframe?

Joel
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 10:35 AM
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United States, FL, Eustis
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
You may be able to fix it by disassembling the servo & cleaning the resistive strip & wiper with an abrasive such as a clean pencil eraser, and then following-up with a shot of DeoxIT. Otherwise, it's probably time for a new servo. How many hours on the airframe?

Joel
I have had it just over a month. Probably 10-12 hours or so would be my guess. Thanks for the advice. Will give it a shot.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 11:12 AM
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South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
5,174 Posts
Assuming that the control surface is otherwise not being bound up, etc, causing your problem, then here is an idea.

This is a total kludge, ESPECIALLY on a AS3X equipped plane, but it;s been done to get around having to immediately replace a servo that was otherwise good, but just did not like the spot right at neutral, and so would 'hunt' right at that spot:

* slightly squeeze the "U" bend to cause a bit of electronic trim to be required

* go to the servo menu and input a bit of subtrim just enough to recenter the servo back to neutral trim.

* buzz and hunting behavior should now be gone.

I know the AS2X manual and others frown greatly on using any trim or subtrim, but if not overdone, I have found it to be resilient to a bit of minor jiggering around like this.

Of course, you already know the 'right' and long term solution is a new servo.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 12:21 PM
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UNGN's Avatar
Southlake, TX
Joined Jan 2008
7,327 Posts
The Gear teeth can have burrs on them too.causing the servo to be sticky/twitchy. The exposed gear wheels can get easily banged up.
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