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Old Sep 25, 2012, 09:57 PM
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United States, NC, Randleman
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Update

Got some more done this past weekend. Luckily my brother came over on saturday to help and plans to come back this coming friday. Heres a few more pics.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 10:20 AM
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LaGrange, GA
Joined Jun 2009
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Looks really nice! Out of curiosity, why did you not just add onto the end of your existing building?
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 01:41 PM
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United States, NC, Randleman
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Originally Posted by JohnsPop View Post
Looks really nice! Out of curiosity, why did you not just add onto the end of your existing building?
I did think about adding on, but in the end i wanted to be able to do all the work myself with out subbing any work out. I did get help from my neighbor to stand two walls up and my brother helped one day.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 03:34 PM
GEE,...it BEE model time
piperjoe's Avatar
Interlochen, MI
Joined Dec 2009
1,722 Posts
Very nice start on what promises to be a great shop building. I had a stand-alone 12 x 16 foot shop of similiar construction in Alabama with air conditioning, dehumidifier and separate wiring for lights, wall/bench outlets and the air conditioner. Really enjoyed the building sessions in that shop. Don't forget to add an outlet for the fridge....

Soft landings,

Joe
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 01:11 AM
Promoting Model Aviation...
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United States, CT, Litchfield
Joined Nov 2005
25,029 Posts
Sweet! I am really digging that. Nice job so far. Electricity? What are going to be running out there?

Does the electrical work require a permit in your locale?

Frank
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 01:46 AM
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USA, AZ, Phoenix
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I am surprised at how small it looks AFTER the walls were put up....sure shrinks in a hurry doesn't it?
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 01:27 PM
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The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Joined Oct 2002
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This is the part that is most satisfying as so much happens for the amount of effort put into the work. Now the "fiddly" bits will soon begin...

If you're spending a lot of time out there I'd suggest you increase the size of the windows to allow more natural light in. Particularly on the side where your main working area will be. A 3x4 foot window positioned right over the main bench area will really let in a lot of light and very much reduce the "closed in" feeling. And at least one window on the far side or end so that two sides can be opened will provide a nice flow through breeze in the Summer. And if you have lots of insects around your area the open windows with bug screens is far superior to having to leave the door open.

Ideally if it were me I'd put two 34x44 dual pane with one slide open side on each of the long walls spaced evenly. This would maximise the light in the shop and also maximise the airflow in summer and natural light for all year. And again it opens the shop area up so you lose any sort of closed in feeling.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 01:48 PM
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United States, NC, Randleman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMatthews View Post
This is the part that is most satisfying as so much happens for the amount of effort put into the work. Now the "fiddly" bits will soon begin...

If you're spending a lot of time out there I'd suggest you increase the size of the windows to allow more natural light in. Particularly on the side where your main working area will be. A 3x4 foot window positioned right over the main bench area will really let in a lot of light and very much reduce the "closed in" feeling. And at least one window on the far side or end so that two sides can be opened will provide a nice flow through breeze in the Summer. And if you have lots of insects around your area the open windows with bug screens is far superior to having to leave the door open.

Ideally if it were me I'd put two 34x44 dual pane with one slide open side on each of the long walls spaced evenly. This would maximise the light in the shop and also maximise the airflow in summer and natural light for all year. And again it opens the shop area up so you lose any sort of closed in feeling.
Yes my windows are small and there only two, but they will not be open in the summer. I do have a hole cut for the AC. I have lived here my whole life and im still not use to the heat & humidity. A guy i work with moved here from Colorado and said this is the only place he's been where its the same in the shade as in the sun.

My plan is to side the exterior with Hardiplank and insulate the walls and ceiling. I planned on sheetrock and then thought about paneling or painted OSB on the interior, but now im thinking on drywall. I've never done drywall before, so i have that to look forward to. For lighting, im thinking about four 96" T5 flouresent fixtures.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 02:41 PM
Visitor from Reality
United States, VA, Arlington
Joined Dec 1996
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SMALL???

Wish I had that much space now!

Idle thought - one thing I've figured after having several itterations of the BDF (Balsa Dust Factory ) is that the middle of the space seems to work better for building, even when you have windows, though they factor some about which way you mostly want to face. Up against a wall starts by taking up model aircraft storage, and mostly seems to put light sources behind you, thus putting you to work in your own shadow.

One of US aeromodelling's best, the late, great Randy Randolph, had a converted double car garage, built to 'Texan Size' at the bottom of his garden to build in. Now that was a tale of a workshop. I think the biggest model Randy built was a six foot glider too, but he had a garage attic full of them little fellas.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 07:02 PM
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The 'Wack, BC, Canada
Joined Oct 2002
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Opening or not I would really suggest you strongly consider some nice picture windows to let in the light. Flourescents are fine but they DO wear at our eyesight over time. And then there's the feeling of openess that some good size window bring to the interior. Don't discount that.

I've got a hint for you on the drywalling. Putting the sheets in place is simple drudge work. It just needs to be done. But lots of folks cringe at the thought of mudding and the mess it creates. THAT is where my hint is aimed. A long time dry waller taught me this. On the drywall trowel or knife you use be sure to file the edge square to the faces and then stone the edge and faces to remove any burrs. When the edge is sharp and square in this way it CUTS the mud away instead of simply pushing it. This makes a HUGE difference in how you can peel away the excess. And for mudding the seams the trick is to put lots on so the moisture sinks into the paper and then cut most of it back off using your freshly sharpened drywall knife.

A proper drywall trowel that sort of looks like a concrete trowel actually has an arc to the plate where a concrete trowel is dead flat. This arc along with some pressure while holding the trowel at about 30 to 45 degrees to the wall cuts away the mud cleaning to the paper on the edges but leaves a smooth very slightly arc'ed coating over the joint. The amount of pressure you use determines the thickness. With a bit of practice it works like a treat. On the other hand if you use an 8 inch wide drywall knife instead of a trowel you can still do nice work. But with the knife each seam takes two final passes. One pass down each side with pressure focused on the outside part of the blade so that a light mound is left in the middle with a slight center hump showing. Leave the hump to be sanded away when it dries. By usind the right pressure and angle to the knife this center hump is only a very slight one.

For corners a corner trowel works well using the same sort of hints I've given for the flat seams.

DO NOT even think for a SECOND about using the plastic junk. They don't hold the edge needed to trim the wet mud well and you'll end up simply having a mess to sand in the end. They are fine for spot touching holes or screw heads but are not what you need for seams. A good metal trowel even for a job of this size will pay for itself with far less frustration and sanding paper cost. Although I have used a plastic corner trowel. Had to sharpen the edges up two or three times but it did manage sort of OK. For the wall seams though I'd suggest an 8 inch knife if you don't want to buy and can't borrow a proper drywall trowel. An 8 inch knife will be more useful for any future projects. A good one is a lifetime investment. I bought proper stuff something like 25 years ago and they are still being used these days on my current house shop renos.

And again, as someone that has spent far too much time in far too many basement workshops, I urge you to consider those nice big windows. If you shop the demolition outlets you can likely source a couple of similar size windows for a good price. The AC you're going to put in certainly takes the need for fresh air away. But if you think about it if the weather is just right and you're doing a lot of sanding why would you NOT want to open the windows to let some of the dust blow out?

Options, it's all about options. If you don't build them in now you won't have options or natural light later.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 05:17 PM
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United States, NC, Randleman
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Well its been a while, but im still at it. The only time i can work on it is on the weekends. I finally found someone on craigslist that was selling linoleum and i got one piece that will fit. You will see it later on. I also bought some wall mounted cabinets that came out of a remodel. Heres a few more pics that i took today. Iam
hoping to finish the soffit tomorrow. I got back into the hobby in 2/12 and i have not flown yet. This is really not where i thought i would be at this time.
Thanks for looking.
Todd
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 09:38 PM
The Prez....... again
kenh3497's Avatar
United States, IA, Rockwell
Joined Jul 2011
4,051 Posts
Another thought on drywall mudding.......

In addition to BMatthews thoughts, the guy that did our last two houses used his 8 or 10 inch knife to scrape off the high spots while the mud is still slightly damp. It works well this way and minimizes the sanding needed. He also did his seams a bit different than most. After taping and one coat of mud on the seams he would lay a strip of mud on each side of the seam leaving a trough on the actual seam. The outsides of each strip of mud were finished tight (feathered) to the drywall. After that was dry he came back and filled in the trough left earlier. He said he got a better finish with less work.

Ken
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Old Nov 12, 2012, 06:32 PM
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USA, PA, Westmoreland Co.
Joined Aug 2008
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I used T1-11 siding for the inside of my workshop walls (shop is mostly for woodworking but occasionally get to do some model building). I think it looks nice. Some sheets look better than others depending on how the cut the veneer, pine. I painted/sealed it with a coat of polyeurethane.
Its very simple to put up.
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 04:58 PM
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United States, NC, Randleman
Joined Nov 2011
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The Saga Continues

I finally got to the sideing. If anyone uses Hardiplank on a DIY job, get some help and it will go alot quicker. Im still a one man job. Heres a couple of pics.
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Old Dec 02, 2012, 07:30 PM
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USA, AZ, Phoenix
Joined May 2003
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I could never get that siding so straight....if you lose your full-time job, I think you might have a solid skill for siding!
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