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Old Sep 13, 2012, 11:06 AM
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Lake Balboa, CA
Joined Jun 2007
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Thanks guys.
Starting on the deck supports. Opted to go with 1/4" X 1/2" basswood. Prepped the two surfaces, slathered on some epoxy, and clamped it to a board to get a nice straight edge on the hull at the deck line.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 01:42 PM
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Pat

Looking good, might we see 2 boats running at Riverside? CB
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 01:03 AM
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Lake Balboa, CA
Joined Jun 2007
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Thanks Charlie, prolly not this year.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 03:21 PM
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Lake Balboa, CA
Joined Jun 2007
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I messed around with the TTB over the weekend. I redid the roof because my first attempt had the eves at three different degrees. I was shooting for 45 and ended up with 50, 45, & 70. The scribing and bending didnt work out so well. The eves on take 2 are all 45. I had to extend the front top of the pilothouse by 1/8 to get the rise for the new roof. Filled in the gap, sanded, & glazed.
I wish I had an extra 1/8 perimeter on the deck; its just a little smaller than the hull, port & starboard. Prolly glue a strip to both sides and fit from there.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 04:09 PM
Keep a Steady Strain....
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Orange County, CA
Joined Nov 2007
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Hi Pat - The roof looks great, I really like that look...

Check to make sure the hull isn't bowed out a little amidships, you know, that thing fiberglass does...we made the deck exactly the same width as the hull so that guys wouldn't have to trim or sand back the deck to match the hull.

The "D" rubber, when glued to the hull sides starting at the deck edge, will cover up any gaps or lines from joining the deck and hull together.

She's looking good...
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 05:08 PM
r/c ships and workboats
bellingham, wa
Joined May 2006
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my deck was a little narrrow when placed on the bare hull. Once "pulled" back to shape, it fits extremely nice with basically no clean up. And as troy mentioned, the rubber will hide the line between the 2 parts.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 01:47 PM
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Lake Balboa, CA
Joined Jun 2007
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I tipped my hand over here on the set up to propel this TTB, now I thought Id add some pictures here. It started with a cross to drill the hole for the stuffing tube. Once I botched that, the hull skeg needed a little help. Im using a 3/16 prop shaft so the stuffing tube needed to be 11/32 to accommodate the shaft with sintered bearings. The skeg is 3/8 wide, which left 1/64 on either side after drilling the hole. Those tolerances left me with a small mess. I cut a styrene tube down to make new walls on the skeg for the stuffing tube. After some epoxy, glazing, sanding, glazing, primer, sanding, glazing, sanding, & primer, I got it all fixed up.
As well as the stuffing tube, I got the rudder tube fabricated. The screw is a 1 Rivabo which will be driven by an Astro Flight 035 Cobalt motor attached to an Astro Flight belt drive. Nothing has been glued in the hull yet because Im waiting on finale drive shafts for the belt drive. Prolly gonna work topside until then.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 02:03 PM
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Pat

NICE FAB WORK!! Charlie
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 10:46 AM
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Lake Balboa, CA
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Thanks Charlie.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Great Adaptation for you hardware.
I might add a wheel collar to the drive shaft where it enters the stuffing tube (inside) incase the coupler comes loose .( I know you know this)
One last thing, seal the inside of the hull (only the outside is protected from moisture)
Don't be afraid to use a 550 motor and gear box with a 5000ma split pack (3 cells on either side of the motor ) it is what I think it was designed for (can't find the post anymore, I think it got deleted.)
sc
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 02:38 PM
r/c ships and workboats
bellingham, wa
Joined May 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUGAR COATED View Post
Don't be afraid to use a 550 motor and gear box with a 5000ma split pack (3 cells on either side of the motor ) it is what I think it was designed for (can't find the post anymore, I think it got deleted.)
sc
Actually this was designed for the 300-400 size motor. These are not the same size as a regular Springer style boat. Too much HP makes these thing go swim with the fishes.Mine has a geared 400 and it has a lot more get and go then I was even exspecting.
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 03:50 PM
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550 not 500. It is a 5 pole motor not 3. If your boat is submarining, then you don't have it balanced correctly. You more than likely have it bow heavy plus the wrong angle on the drive shaft and too much pitch on the prop (causes torque roll and cavatation ) Also, a 1/24 scale boat should should only be going about 2mph, and even that is too fast for scale. I don't know of any tug that goes 24 to 48 MPH while working or not. (Just in case you hadn't thought about it in that way) And Yes, The 400 speed wit the Maxx Products 3:1 offset drive is Ideal for 90% of the things that are done with tugs.
MUCH FUN
sc

Don't forget flotation
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 03:57 PM
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This is scale speed


world fastest Atlantic Tug Rc HDV lol (0 min 52 sec)


sc
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 10:38 AM
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Pat

Getting back to YOUR build, have you had a chance to tub test the 035 system? If you have a VOM, do an amp draw test, as I have herd, Astro Cobalts, can tend to be amp hungry. Charlie
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 12:58 PM
Keep a Steady Strain....
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Orange County, CA
Joined Nov 2007
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Really liking the engineering Pat! That shaft boss in the skeg is nicely done...
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