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Old Jan 12, 2013, 03:37 PM
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jimhurley's Avatar
Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
175 Posts
Deck Beams

Thanks for the information on thinning the epoxy.
The deck beams are doubled around the hatch frame to give me a surface to glue the deck to around the hatch. If you look closely at the pictures in reply #49 you can see that the hatch sits on the inner framing and the outer framing provides a lip to glue the sub-deck to. The top of the hatch will be flush with the top of the sub-deck and then the plan is to plank over the whole deck including the hatch. then I'll cut the planking so the hatch can be removed.
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Old Apr 09, 2013, 07:07 PM
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Sequim, WA
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Finally back to deck planking. Update and Question.

I've been busy with other things and haven't gotten much done on my boat since my last posting. Also I've been dreading screwing up and then having to try to remove planks from the sub-deck. The easiest and safest thing would be to add another 1/32" piece over the sub-deck although the sub-deck seems to be sturdy enough to be the deck just by itself. I'm at 13lbs. 4oz. now, that is everything except the mast, booms, rigging and fittings. I haven't weighed the planking or the rest of the items so I don't know what I'll wind up with for total weight. I weighed the boat with a 6.6 volt 2000 mAh LIFE pack, which is lighter than the NIMH pack that I had originally planed on using.
I did get my planks cut, they are 1/16" by 3.8" (edge planks), 5/16" (general planks), and 1/2" (king plank). I also got the pieces of paper cut that will be used between the planks and I made a tray to soak the planks so it is easier to bend them. I'll soak them in window cleaner to soften. I need to do a test to see if it will be better to wet and then tape the outer planks into place until they dry and then glue them or just glue them in place right as they are removed from the tank. I anyone has any experience doing this I'm open for suggestions.
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Old Apr 11, 2013, 12:48 AM
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I had found this picture using wedges, I don't recall where, it may be Hans B. I adopted the technique for a deck I built. I made the wedges from Popsicle sticks, used 3mm X 6mm planks, bent them dry, and CA glue as I put them in place. I found that I could dry fit the difficult front end and glue the plank 3/4 of the way to the stern, then cut and finish the plank to the correct length. It was too difficult to dry fit the whole plank before gluing it. The flat stern made it easier. It worked great.
What sort of paper are you using for the "caulk"?
I do have to thank everyone who contributes to these forums, I have learned a LOT from all of you. Thank You !
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Old Apr 11, 2013, 11:16 AM
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Sequim, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Tuna View Post
What sort of paper are you using for the "caulk"?
The paper is a black heavy bond craft paper, it is black all the way thru and not just colored on the outside. I haven't put any CA on it yet to see what happens. It looks like the paper John Hanks is using in his video. I don't know what it is called.
I couldn't tell from the picture you posted, did you run the king plank all the way to the bow and butt the outside planks to it or did you run the outside planks to the bow and butt them to each other and then fit the king plank to them?
Thanks for the info.
Jim
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Old Apr 11, 2013, 07:58 PM
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I put the outside planks on first and then the king which was a stack of three that I had made. I then cut to length and fit a piece across the transom. I would probably leave the transom open next time and cut all the planks together before fitting the piece across the transom. My "caulk" is .85 mm basswood that was a stock item at the hobby store.
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Old Apr 11, 2013, 08:05 PM
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Jim, I just noticed that you are in Sequim. I'm over in the Seattle area and sail T-37 with the PNMYC gang. I have been following the CJ threads for some time because I am planning on trying to build a wood hull version that will use all the CJ gear. It is nice to see that there is a CJ somewhat close by, Do you know of any over on this side?
Tom
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Old Apr 12, 2013, 12:46 AM
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southern oregon
Joined Feb 2010
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Tuna Boat....

The picture you show with all the wedges I believe is from the "J" boat builder in Ventura Calif. It looks like they would work real well but I would think they need to be weighted also to keep from lifting away from the the sub deck.

I really like the deck you have already done as shown. The neat part is the same pattern on the hatch cover. That is really nice.
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Old Apr 12, 2013, 11:53 AM
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Sequim, WA
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CJ's in the northwest.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hot Tuna View Post
Jim, I just noticed that you are in Sequim. I'm over in the Seattle area and sail T-37 with the PNMYC gang. I have been following the CJ threads for some time because I am planning on trying to build a wood hull version that will use all the CJ gear. It is nice to see that there is a CJ somewhat close by, Do you know of any over on this side?
Tom
Tom,
I don't think that there are any CJ's closer than Elk Grove California, I bet if you check with Hans he can tell you where the next closest boats are. Someone watching the General CJ discussion tread might have a answer.
I believe there is a very active T37 club over in Port Angeles, I think they sail in the harbor, but I'm not sure.
Jim
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Old Apr 12, 2013, 08:02 PM
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Randy,
You really don't need any weight, they are wedged in pretty tight and the CA glue sets up quick if there is a spot where they need to be held down.. The hatches match well because they are cut out and then framed up.
Jim,
I believe that they sail in Port Madison, Port Ludlow, and Port Hadlock. The T37 is a fun little boat and there is quite a fleet in the area. The Pacific Northwest Regional Championship is next Saturday 9am at the Seattle Yacht Club. If you are interested, I can provide some contact information so you can connect with the west side gang. It was not uncommon to get 15 to 18 boats show up for our monthly frostbite series through this past winter, the warm weather should bring out even more. I have heard that the west side is becoming more and more active too.
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Old Apr 13, 2013, 11:51 AM
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Sequim, WA
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Thanks for the contact information offer.

Tom,
Thanks you for the contact information offer. I'm pretty well tied down right now, my wife has Alzheimer's and she can't be left alone and when I'm home she follows me around and straightens up after me constantly, which slows down my progress. Even cooking something is interesting as the utensils I'm using disappear if I turn my back on her. I get out two afternoons a week for a few hours, we have a respite worker that comes in and watches her. On one of those afternoons I usually attend a caregivers' meeting and I use the other one to run errands and sometimes to get one of my boats out to the local pond for a couple of hours sailing. (Probably more information about me than anyone would be interested in.)
We have a club/group here in Sequim that sail/race Solings, ODOMs and IOM's every Monday, Wednesday and Friday morning.
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Old Apr 14, 2013, 12:07 AM
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Jim,
She is lucky to have you. Your boat pics, and your story, are both inspiring.
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Old Apr 14, 2013, 06:46 PM
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Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
175 Posts
Started Planking

I started the planking yesterday and got eight planks installed and two more cut ready to go, I haven't gotten anything done today, "Must do Yard Work." I've used epoxy for all the gluing so far and the planking reminded me about what I don't like about CA, my nose has been running since I started putting on the planks.
I've added some pictures of what I've done so far. The first picture is my bending setup and tape strips that I used to keep the edge plank in place while it dried. After a few minutes the strips come out of the tank almost as limp as a noodle. Since the strips are only 1/16" thick they have a nasty habit of wanting to twist. I didn't need to tape any of the other planks after the edge planks were in place. I did use a piece of tape to keep them on top of the hull and not sticking out to the side until I got past the curve of the hull.
I've managed to get some CA on top of some of the planks, I'll have to see what problems that causes me when I stain the planks. Anybody do the same thing and wipe down the planks with debonder and did it help. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jim CJ #503
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Old Apr 14, 2013, 08:59 PM
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Southern Calif
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Looking good. You should be able to sand the top of the planks and remove any CA.

Ed
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Old Apr 14, 2013, 11:59 PM
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Pomona, CA
Joined Apr 2007
671 Posts
Looks like you're making good progress Jim. Like Ed said, my experience building a planked mahogany Chris Craft model, is that the CA glue cleans right off with a light sanding, before you stain/finish.

Kevin
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Old Jul 30, 2013, 06:52 PM
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Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
175 Posts
Finally back to work.

Well I've been working on and off on the deck for some time now and I've finally got it planked. I think it passes the 8 ft. rule. I need to do a little more sanding, but that shouldn't take very long. I sanded the whole deck today, after getting the last of the planks installed, in less than an hour. I learned quite a bit doing the planking. My choice of bass wood wasn't the best choice, but it was the only stuff that I could find that came in 48 in. length. I wound up getting a new table saw , a refurbished Rigid, that uses standard tools. My craftsman had non standard slots and I couldn't find any tools that fit it. Cutting the planks went pretty well. I cut the planks from 1/16 in. material and that made it interesting trying to stand up the pieces of paper that I used for calking.
I've added some pictures. I've been experimenting with painting the deck house and hatches and the more I mess with it the darker it gets, I don't really care for the color they are now, I plan on going lighter with the deck. I've only got about a pound left to play with to the finish the boat so I'm pretty sure I'll be over the 14 lb. 5 oz. minimum. I'm using a 6.6 volt LiFePO4 battery, so I'm at the minimum weight there. I didn't weigh the mast, sails, planking and deck hardware when I weighed it, everything else was there though.
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