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Old Nov 25, 2012, 11:07 PM
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Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
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Deck Features

I got some wood cut for the deck features today, but nothing ready to take pictures of yet. The more I read and study the YouTube videos, it is becoming clear to me that the deck layout between the original Ranger and the current Ranger are quite different. I seem to be building the deck items for the new Ranger. Now the question I have is should I continue with brass fittings or should I go with stainless looking fittings. Actually I don't believe the original boat had brass fittings. I haven't really tried it yet, but I think I can make many of the brass fittings. If I have to make any fittings where I would have to fasten two pieces of aluminum together, I'd be stumped. Buying all the fittings in stainless would be expensive and I'm not sure what a mixture of stainless and aluminum would look like.
Anybody got any thoughts or comments on brass fittings with a modern looking deck layout?
Thanks - Jim
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 08:49 PM
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Sequim, WA
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Preliminary deck layout photos.

Here are a couple of photos of the deck layout. I need to put the top on the cabin and round the corners of the items. I will be adding a switch and charging jack in the cabin that will be reached by removing the gangway hatch. I still have to contour the bottom of everything to fit the curve of the deck. I'm debating on making the deck flat where the cabin and skylight behind the mast are. If I look closely at a picture I found it seem to indicate that the deck is raised sightly and flat in this area. The drawing that I posted earlier of the layout seems to support a raised deck area. I've added a copy of the picture that I think confirms it, but I'm thinking it may wind up being to thin to do at this scale. I doesn't seem to go back past the deck house. I've also added the cockpit picture I found, but I can't tell anything about the base of the cockpit from the picture. The curve of the deck is greater than a 1/16" which is the thickness of the material I plan to make the planks out of. Since I'll be using a 1/32" sub-deck the deck will be 3/32" thick.
I pretty sure that I won't have to add weight to get up to the 14lbs., 5oz. limit.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Southern Calif
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The deck layout looks great. The brass parts would looks nice with the wood but remember brass is heavy and would require lots of polishing.

Ed
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Old Dec 05, 2012, 11:11 PM
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Sequim, WA
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More deck hatches and cabin pictures.

I think I'm done working on all the deck fittings, except for sealing and coloring. I've finished cutting shaping and putting everything together. I've added some more pictures here with the details of the cabin and the electrical setup. I might do some lightening work on the cockpit, it is solid wood right now.
The panel that the charging jack and switch are mounted on will be screwed in from the underside so they can be removed and replaced if they fail and the cabin will be removable from the hull access hatch so I can get to the backside of the jack and switch. I will have a sealed hole in the hull access hatch for two wires that will need to go below deck, one for the battery connection and one for the receiver, which I think I'll mount on the bottom of the hull access hatch with Velcro.
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 09:35 AM
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Southern Calif
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The deck fittings look super. If you can make the solid wood fitting lighter that would be a good thing. Where do you plan on putting the batteries?

Ed
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Old Dec 06, 2012, 01:08 PM
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Sequim, WA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ed Crowell View Post
The deck fittings look super. If you can make the solid wood fitting lighter that would be a good thing. Where do you plan on putting the batteries?

Ed
Ed,
I have 3000mah battery that I'm thinking about using and it will sit on it's side under the servo tray on the bottom of the boat. A 1700mah to 2000mah will mount on the bottom of the servo tray with Velcro. I think either of these batteries will give me a day's sailing time. If weight becomes a problem, I could use a LiFe pack, which is something I may want to do anyway. One of these would mount on the bottom of the servo tray.
The servo tray would have to be removed to remove the batteries, since I set it up to be easy to remove that won't pose a problem. The 3000mah battery is a car battery and it has a high current connector on it for a quick charge if needed. All I would have to do to access it is remove the hull access hatch.
I will need to get a couple of extensions so I can route the wiring up along the starboard side of the boat to the battery wire on the switch and to route the servo wires up the side to the receiver. They will be aft of the arc of the shorter side of the sail arm. I intend to hold the wiring in place with Velcro.
Jim
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 11:35 AM
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Sequim, WA
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Rigging Materials

I got out to my local store, that sells fishing gear, and purchased some materials for the sheets and running rigging. I found some down-rigger line that is 150lb. test that I'm going to try for the stays. I bought 15 yards of it. I'm not sure if it can be crimped, but it can be tied. If I tie it I can put shrink wrap over the knots to make it look good. I also bought 5 yards of braided Dacron fishing line for the sheets. The stores sells these items in bulk form so you only need to purchase the amount you need. The total cost after a 20% discount was $2.86. Stainless steel down-rigger material is much cheaper that the material that I purchased, but it is thicker, heaver and less flexible.
I've started on the sub-deck, but I'm still trying to figure out how to get the hatch cutout done and keep it aligned when I glue it down. The idea is that the top of the hatch cover will fit flush with the top of the deck. The cover rests on the hatch framing and the deck will be glued to framing that is on the outside of the framing for the cover.
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Last edited by jimhurley; Dec 15, 2012 at 12:28 PM. Reason: Added deck comments
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 05:19 PM
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Southern Calif
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Jim,

Make a tracing with some computer paper taped together. Cover the entire top of the boat with the sub deck material then cut out the openings that you need.
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 11:44 PM
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Pomona, CA
Joined Apr 2007
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I'll be interested to hear how the Spectra works for the standing rigging. It has the reputation of "creeping" under static tension over time, maybe not a big deal considering the relatively low tensions on the stays. You will have to keep a close eye on it at chafe points, like the spreader tips. Let us know what you think about it after sailing with it.

What's your plans for the mast? Aluminum? Wood?

Kevin
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 09:58 AM
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Southern Calif
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Jim,

This is what I used for the stays. It is stainless steel rope 7 strand, it is very thin and flexible.

The one I used is .021" and 80 lbs # 3458T115 (Type 302 and Type 304 Stainless Steel Wire Rope)

http://www.mcmaster.com/#wire-rope-strand/=km9v9o

Ed
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Old Dec 16, 2012, 11:18 AM
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Sequim, WA
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Stays and mast

Kevin,
It will be interesting to see how it holds up, I read several discussions and reviews of it for use as down-rigger cable and it seems to hold up very well. They tie it directly to the swivels at the weight end of the cable and to the reel at the other end. There seems to be three big upsides to it over steel; doesn't kink, much thinner and it can be knotted. The biggest downside is that it is so slippery that it can be hard to connect releases to it, although newer discussions would seem to indicate that that has been solved.
I'm going with a wooden mast and booms, I had Hans make me one. I'm not sure how I'll make the spreaders at this point, I would like to be able to remove them from the mast for transport, I've been told that they can poke holes in sails if one isn't very careful. There is an Australian source that makes one that has a plastic fitting that fits snugly around the mast and the spreaders themselves are attached to the fitting. http://radiosailingshop.com.au/index...f526b215841fb2 They come in two sizes 10.8mm and 11.1mm. The 11.1mm equates to 7/16th which is what my mast is, but I'm thinking that the 10.8mm might fit and not have as much rearward angle. I haven't done any measurements yet to decide which way to go. I did contact the shop with a question and they were quick to get back to me with an answer. They are stainless and I'm still leaning towards brass. I suspect that I could find some brass tube that would fit over the steel, but I can't tell from the pictures how the stays are attached.
Ed, thanks for the specifics on the cable you are using. I think that whenever anyone adds specific to the discussion, it adds to the interest in the class and makes it easier for new owners to get their boat in the water.
Jim
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 07:06 PM
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Sequim, WA
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Hull fittings and status.

I've added a turning block and some cleats, the cleats are to give me a place to tie of the sheets and adjust the settings of the sails. It will make it easy to adjust for different wind conditions. I can adjust the travel with the transmitter, but this allows me to change the slot between the main and the jib.
I'm ready to seal the wood in the hull and I was wondering what others have done. I'm thinking of epoxying the wood, but a bit concerned about the thickness the epoxy will add around the hatch. I've got the sub-deck hatch opening cut out and pins installed to hold the deck in place while the epoxy dries. Hans suggested to me that I coat the underside of the deck with epoxy and turn the boat upside down while it cures, which will guarantee that the joint between the hull and deck are waterproof.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 09:56 PM
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Hayward, CA
Joined Jan 2009
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You can thin epoxy with lacquer thinner and get very good results without adding thickness to the wood. When I seal wood with epoxy, I do a 50/50 coat first to let it soak into the wood, then a full strength coat. But if you are just looking to seal the wood, a thinned coat of epoxy will work just fine for you.
Use REAL lacquer thinner, not the 'green' stuff.... they're not the same.
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Old Jan 11, 2013, 11:44 PM
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Pomona, CA
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Jim,

I thinned West System epoxy with about 10% denatured alchohol and brushed that over the interior woodwork. I don't think it added much "thickness" to the wood, but I built my hatches after the deck was on, so my situation was a bit different.

Interesting way to terminate the sheets inside the boat. I'm sure it will be cleaner "on deck" but at a loss of ease of adjustment. Give and take I suppose...looks good!!! Interesting that it looks like your deck beam and hatch frames are double thickness.

Kevin
C-J #551
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Old Jan 12, 2013, 09:47 AM
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Southern Calif
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Jim,

I also thinned my epoxy by 10% with denatured alcohol to seal the wood inside the hull. Do not use rubbing alcohol.

Ed
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