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Old Sep 10, 2012, 11:31 AM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Southern Calif
Joined Dec 2005
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Jim,

I see your dilemma. Perhaps use as thick a piece of plywood that you can and route out the ends so it sits flush with the table. If you route out to much you can use washers to shim it level.

Ed
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 12:14 PM
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jimhurley's Avatar
Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
182 Posts
Ed,
I found a 6 1/2", 140 tooth Diablo blade at Home Depot for $6.48 after our 8.6% sales tax. So after a couple of hours sawing, routing, and sanding on a piece of 1/4" plywood that I had laying around I now have a zero clearance setup for my saw. Thanks for the info on the blade. I'm a bit concerned about it warping so I think I'm going to take the measurements from it in case I have to make another one. I'm going to keep an eye open for a piece of 1/4" particle board.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 06:58 PM
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Ed Crowell's Avatar
Southern Calif
Joined Dec 2005
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Jim,

I am not sure 1/4 inch particle board would be strong enough. Make sure you use high density particle board. But I think plywood is the strongest. Another option would be a piece of 6061 aluminum plate that is the same thickness as your metal plate. I have cut 1/2 inch thick aluminum on my saw with a carbide blade. It cuts like wood, but make sure to use a paper mask over your nose and mouth. You don't want to breath in aluminum dust its not good for the brain.

Ed
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 09:17 PM
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Odomtim's Avatar
Hanford, CA
Joined Nov 2008
43 Posts
C-J 515 Deck

Hi Jim

Here are a few pictures of my sub deck and deck in verious stages of construction. I am not sure why but most of the picturers wont load as thumnails. sorry

Tim
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 10:25 PM
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Hanford, CA
Joined Nov 2008
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deck 515

I think I got the thumbnail issue fixed here are better pictures of my deck.

Tim
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 12:00 AM
Taking care of the pond.
MILLERTIME's Avatar
United States, CA, Sanger
Joined Apr 2004
7,377 Posts
Looks great, what is it doing on a garbage can?
Don't throw it away, just send it to me.
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Old Sep 21, 2012, 11:08 PM
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Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
182 Posts
CJ #503 stand and question

Here are some pictures of the boat and my stand, after seeing Hans' new stand on the general discussion stage I'm almost embarrassed to show mine here. If I had to survive on my woodworking skills I'd have starved. I used two layers of thick felt to pad the stand.
I have a question, on the first picture you can see a small spot on the bow directly above the corner of the work bench, anyone care to hazard a guess as to weather or not it will be below the water line.
These picture will show the hull color better than the first ones I posted. The more I look at the color of the hull the better I like it so I'm thinking I'd rather not paint it above the waterline and I may be settled on a dark red for below the waterline.
I'm about ready to work on fairing the keel to the hull. I'm planning on using some West System Six10 epoxy to attach the hull to the keel.
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 09:22 AM
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Southern Calif
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Looks like a very nice stand. I can't see the mark you are talking about.

Ed
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 08:24 PM
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Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
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Some pictures with the keel attached.

I got the keel attached, it fits to the hull pretty well, I'll have to take a little bit more off the port side. I found I hadn't taken enough off that side after I removed the tape. I started out using a fairly course file and ended up using a Multi-tool that I have. It is one of those that cuts by oscillating back and forth. When all was said and done, I didn't have to take much off the keel to get it to fit.
Here are the pictures, in the last one you can see the color I'm contemplating if I can't find something in copper. Probably has to do with some California environmental or hazardous material law. I can't believe the stuff that I'm buying that has the Prop 65 warning on the packaging.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 01:41 AM
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Pomona, CA
Joined Apr 2007
715 Posts
Looks like you're making good progress Jim. I used Rustoleum "Metallic Copper" on the bottom of my Dumas Chris Craft Runabout. It comes out flat, so I overcoated with gloss clear. It's a bit too "metallic" for my taste but it doesn't look too bad.

Kevin
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 11:47 AM
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Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
182 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by poltergeist View Post
Looks like you're making good progress Jim. I used Rustoleum "Metallic Copper" on the bottom of my Dumas Chris Craft Runabout. It comes out flat, so I overcoated with gloss clear. It's a bit too "metallic" for my taste but it doesn't look too bad.

Kevin
Thanks Kevin,
I have looked in a couple of stores that have a good selection of Rustoleum paints and didn't find "Metallic Copper", I'll have to look again.
I failed to mention for the record that I used West Systems SIx20 to attach the keel and I might use it to attach the deck also. If your not familiar with it it is two part 1:1 self-mixing with filler added. It is supposed to be harder to sand than their 105 system with their 410 micro-balloon filler.
Jim
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 12:08 PM
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Pomona, CA
Joined Apr 2007
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Jim,

I'll check the can when I get home (I think I still have it). As I recall, I got it at "Orchard Supply Hardware" OSH. Don't know if you have that store in Washngton. Seems to me that Home Depot usually has a good selection on Rustoleum paints too.

I think I've seen here that many guys use "Tamiya" brand hobby paint in copper or bronze color. That might work for you too.

I've seen the West Six10 but haven't used it. The "G-flex" stuff is good for smaller projects as well. I don't think you can go wrong with any of the West System products....pricey but good!!!

Keep up the good work. Looking forward to seeing more pics!!!

Kevin
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 05:27 PM
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Southern Calif
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Looking good. Keep the pictures coming.

Ed
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Old Oct 26, 2012, 10:53 PM
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Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
182 Posts
CJ #503 some progress.

I found some Testors copper spray paint that I think I'll try when I ready to put on the bottom coat. I put it on the rudder and I liked it there.
I've got the deck hatch almost finished, I've added some pictures. (It's really hard to take several interesting pictures of a hatch.) I still have to trim the width and length a little, the hatch opening that Hans put in this hull is tapered towards the rear. The hatch will overlap the framing for it's full width and I plan to add extra framing to the outside of the current framing to give me something to attach the deck to around the opening.
I'm using 1/32 birch ply from AK-Models http://www.balsawoodinc.com/ for the deck, they were quite a bit cheaper that National and the wood looks very good. I received the wood I ordered today, but I'll have to wait for the 1/32" as I had a brain fade when I made the order and I forgot to include it. I'm hoping that they will wave the $20 minimum when I place the new order, if not I'll have to order something else and then I'll be able to go into the business of selling wood myself. I intend to plank the deck with 1/16 basswood sheet on top of the 1/32 sub-deck. I'll probably end up staining the planks. I might stain the king plank and deck edge planks ebony. I'll have to build a deck-house so I'll have something to get a hold of to remove the hatch. I'm thinking that I'll put a switch and charging port in the deck-house so I don't have to remove the hatch to charge the battery and turn on the power. I still have to work out the details and how to keep the wiring from tangling with the sheets. I might mount the receiver on the underside of the hatch although I suspect that if you get enough water in the boat to wet the receiver if it is mounted on the same level as the top of the servos you'll have to swim to get the boat back.
The table saw is working out great now that I made a zero clearance plate and got the 6 1/2" 140 tooth saw blade. It did a nice job on the 3/16" hatch framing and the 1/32" top of the hatch.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 01:22 AM
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Pomona, CA
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Looks good Jim!!!

Kevin
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