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Old Sep 07, 2012, 10:57 PM
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Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
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Canterbury J #503

I just received my Canterbury J #503 from Hans. It has been a pleasure to deal with him on my purchase.
I'm hoping to be able to create a build log here, but I don't expect that I will be as informative as the others who have created threads on this boat already. I'm thinking about planking the deck, but I have a ways to go before I make that decision. I like the look of brass fittings so I'm going to try to build some of them myself. I will probably have to buy items like turnbuckles and maybe a gooseneck. I'm thinking about making the vang out of some line and a couple of blocks. Any suggestions anyone has on building fittings or any other aspects of building a CJ are warmly welcomed.
I've exchanged conversation and email with some of the folks that watch the CJ groups and I've already got a wealth of information from them as well as from the other threads.
Here are a couple of pictures taken after I removed the hull and keel from the shipping packaging. I struggle with wood working so I had Hans do the hull bracing for me.
I'm going to try to get a stand made this week so I can get the keel installed.
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Old Sep 07, 2012, 11:59 PM
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Hanford, CA
Joined Nov 2008
43 Posts
Hi Jim,

You are going to love the Canterbury J it's a wonderful boat. When you build your stand use the cardboard cradle as a template it will fit better then the patterns in the manual. I built the frams twice for the stand before some one recomended to use the cardboard as a stand pattern. It worked the first time.

Good luck and have fun building the J.

Tim
Canterbury #515
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 12:32 AM
Silly Old Fart
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New Zealand, Wellington, Masterton
Joined Mar 2006
228 Posts
Hi there Jim I am not sure how serious you are about winning races or if you are happy to just have a good looking CJ that performs OK.
If you are a serious racer then your number one criteria must be to "add lightness."

More later depending on your answers. Best wishes from Middle Earth.
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 12:43 AM
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Pomona, CA
Joined Apr 2007
713 Posts
Jim,

Alright!!! This will be fun to watch. Have you made any decisions on electronics and layout?

Gotta say, in some ways I wished I'd gone with a planked deck. I was afraid of the weight, but it seems that mine is at least somewhat underweight. Not a bad problem to have, but the boats sure are pretty with planked decks. I'll probably end up going with a decidedly oversized battery pack sitting on top of the keel to get up to weight.

Kevin
Canterbury J #551
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 10:05 AM
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Southern Calif
Joined Dec 2005
1,859 Posts
Hi Jim,

Congratulations on your C-J you will really like the way it sails. How did you get such a low number (503)? And I see the fiberglass is a different color.
Please post lots of pictures of your build.

Ed
Canterbury J #529
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 03:17 PM
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Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
182 Posts
Thanks, everyone, for the good wishes.
The suggestion for building the cradle helps, that thought had crossed my mind. The spacing on Hans' cradle is 13 inches and on the shipping cradle it is about 18 inches and the rear support is right in front of where the rudder enters the hull. I suppose it would be easy enough to cut it down so the rudder will fit in the cradle. Tim how did you deal with that?
CaptainBit, I don't fancy myself as a racer. I'm somewhat limited in my sailing time as I have to take care of my wife who has Alzheimer's. There is a local club here that sails/races Solings and ODOM's, but there aren't any CJ's near here. Supposedly there is and EC 12 here, but I've never seen the owner sail it. He is a member of the club and sails one of the other boats on the three days they are at the pond.
As I said I'm still toying with the idea of a planked deck, I have an old Sears table saw and it was so cheap you can't get a replacement plate that would allow using it as a zero clearance saw. The plate that is there is very thin metal with rolled edges. I might try to make something out of plywood.
I have a Hitec HS-815B for my sail servo and I am planning on using a sail arm. I recently finished a TT China Team and did a sail arm servo in that, when the instructions called for a sail winch setup. I will probably set up the rudder servo like it shows in the instruction book. As you can see in the picture it has a large space for access to the interior and I think I will stay with that. I was thinking about doing the hatch like John Hanks did his. He has a standard J and a CJ, both done the same way and both with planked decks. I was thinking that I would use a one piece deck and then plank over it.
I trial fit the keel to the hull and it seemed a bit wider than the hull up toward the bow, did anyone have this issue and how did you deal with it? I'm thinking I might just fair the hull out into the keel. Would that be a no-no? I've got to look at it again when I have the cradle made and I can bolt on the keel.
I've copied both of your build logs, Ed and Kevin, both pictures and text, so I can quickly refer to them and search the text when I have questions.
Ed, I got the low number, because Hans had this hull sitting around and he wanted to sell it. I believe he said he started it for someone and the deal didn't happen. He enticed me with the fact that he had about four boats lined up that he had to work on that I would have to wait for, but if I wanted the #503 boat he could get it sent out pretty quickly.
Ed and Kevin, and anyone else, how did you determine the water line. I know about and have used the float a powder on the water in a tank and slowly lowering the boat into the water any other ideas?

Jim
Canterbury J #503
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 03:42 PM
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Pomona, CA
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Jim,

My keel was the same way. After mounting the ballast, I taped off the fiberglass to protect it and used a rasp to take off a bit of the lead where it was wider than the hull. I tried to take off the bare minimum. Then I used fairing compound (in my case West with 410 additive...Bondo would work too) to fair the joint even more. Took quite a lot of sanding and filling to get a smooth transition from hull to ballast, and even now I'm not sure it's perfect.

As far as the waterline, after I had the boat mostly built (so that it was close to "normal" weight), I floated the boat in my folk's pool and marked the position of the WL in several spots on both sides with a pencil. Then I carefully blocked the boat on a level surface (my garage floor) with each mark equidistant from the floor. Then I used this tool (a magnetic dial indicator base) with a pencil clamped in it and followed all the way around the hull. Hope this makes some sense....

Kevin
Canterbury J #551
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 04:16 PM
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Hanford, CA
Joined Nov 2008
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Hi Jim,

I left the front support the same, but the rear I traced it out then cut the inside out that left two separate pieces that support the curve ov the hull only. This isn't the best picture, but the hull is resting on the base and the rudder is going all the way through and not being touched buy the frame. I will look for a better picture of the cradle.

Tim
Canterbury J #515
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 04:24 PM
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Hanford, CA
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Hi Jim,

I found the pictures that have a better angle to see the shape of the cradle.

Tim
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 04:26 PM
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The pictures didn't load the first time here they are.

Tim
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 05:21 PM
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Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
182 Posts
CJ #503 comments

Kevin,
I was thinking of using G-Flex with a micro-balloon filler that I have to attach the keel.
I tried the marking the waterline with a pencil when I built my Dumas Husan, but I couldn't get an angle where I could focus my glasses on the waterline with the boat in the tub. It sounds like a good idea though, did you happen to take any measurements? If I had a starting point I bet I could draw a line and put the boat in the water and compare the actual waterline to the trial one. I would think that if it differed it would be off the same amount all the way around the boat. Then all I'd have to do is adjust for the offset. I have a device that I can draw the with.
Tim, nice looking finish. I see what you did. I'm off to start my stand.

Jim
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 05:28 PM
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Southern Calif
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Jim,

I measured the water line on my boat. I used blue tape from the top of the bow to the water line, it is 7 7/8th inches. From the top of the stern to the water line it is 6 1/4 inches.

For the keel, I installed it with Bondo, then using blue tape on the fiberglass hull I faired the lead keel to the hull using a wood rasp.

Hope this helps,
Ed
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 11:31 PM
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Southern Calif
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Jim,

before you permanently attach the keel. Bolt it onto the hull and turn it upside down to make sure is in perfect alignment with the hull. Hans may have all ready installed some shims on the underside of the hull for alignment.

To make a zero clearance plate for your saw use high density particle board. Simply use the correct thickness then trace your metal plate onto the particle board then cut it and sand it to fit snug. You can use thin wood shims to level it. When you install it move the fence over the edge of it to hold it down then raise the blade up slowly to cut the slot.

Home Depot has a Diablo 6 1/2 inch blade that is very thin for $10.97. It might work on your saw, check the size of your arbor.

Ed
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 12:07 AM
Yosef Sailor
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Singapore, Singapore
Joined Jul 2011
517 Posts
All this talk about building makes me miss my shop and tools back in the states. It also makes me want to build a CJ even more. My boats are in transit to Singapore for a 3-5 year stay then possibly another country for another 3-5 after that. We hope to be home within 5-7. When I do, a CJ is the 1st thing I am going to build. For now, it is my nirvana, sea wind and my footy. I may try some wooden static models to keep me busy.

Thanks for all the post by all you guys. It keeps me connected to the states.
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 05:17 PM
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Sequim, WA
Joined Jan 2004
182 Posts
Plate for my saw.

Here are a couple of pictures of my saw and the plate that it has. The plate is 11/64" at the rolled side and where the screws are and 3/64" on the flat edge.
There are two supports next to the where the screws go that are 3/64" below the table top. The left side of the cutout is tapered and the right side has two lips that the plate sits on.
I'm thinking that I might try routing out a piece of 1/4" plywood to make a new zero clearance plate. Home Depot has this particle board: http://www.homedepot.com/Lumber-Comp...1#.UE0CW5ZjW2U does anyone have an opinion on which would be better. I have a Dremel router setup that I've never used so I guess I'm going to learn a new skill.
Thanks in advance for your comments.

Jim
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