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Old Sep 07, 2012, 09:26 PM
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United States, CA, Alameda
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Infinity 54

Are there any active Infinity 54 sailors that trool these forums? I am buying an Infinity 54 next week. Any hints or tips on how to make an Infinity 54 go fast?
Ryan
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 12:06 AM
BabyBootLegger
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United States, CA, Alameda
Joined Nov 2010
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Hi there!
I have an I-54 and live and work in Alameda.
I am a member of the SMYC but haven't sailed there yet due to repairing my Sailwinch.
Regards,
Giovanni
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 01:22 AM
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Giovanni,
I won't have the boat till next week. Will let you know once I have the boat in my possession.
Are you planning on going to the SFMYC race on the 15th? What is wrong with your winch?
Ryan
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Old Sep 08, 2012, 11:26 PM
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Is the jib boom a part that has to come from the current builder or can it be whatever?
Read the class rules and seems to me like most parts have to come from the class approved builder? Am I wrong? Ryan
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 11:57 AM
If it floats....sail it!
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Elk Grove, CA
Joined Sep 2002
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Ryan:

How to go fast?
Starting positions subject to tuning for your sails: Tip of the jib boom 1" inside the spreaders. Main boom pointed at the transom corner or just a bit inside of that. When the boat is on its side, jib ~1" from the boom, main ~1.5" from the boom. Less in higher winds. Twist set so the second from the top main batten is parallel to the main boom and the jib twist is set so the leech is at the tip of the spreaders when under sail - can't usually set it static too well.

Backstay is snug in low winds and tighter in higher winds. When properly tuned the boat can be driven with the backstay alone (assuming you have a 3 channel radio and a servo on the backstay as most boats do). When hit by a gust, don't let out the main or point up, but first tighten the backstay. This brings the jib leech back to the tip of the spreader and tightens the forestay making a finer entry. It also opens the top of the main leech depowering it. Together they move the CE forward and down counteracting weather helm. When you run out of backstay tension effect, then let out the sheets or feather up with the rudder.

The rules were modified some years ago to allow replacement of the stock jib boom and to allow the addition of a topping lift. There is a limit on the diameter (can't remember what it is right now, but it is seldom an issue since most people use small diameter tubing). Since stock vang parts are no longer available, vang construction is rather open too, just as long as it looks reasonably close to the OEM one..

I used a carbon fiber arrow shaft for the jib boom, but an aluminum one works fine too. Without the topping lift it is difficult to set the initial jib twist, so most skippers have added one. My vang was missing parts so I built a solid one similar to those used on an IOM.

Are you going to try to make the SFMYC race on 9/15? I am coming down from Sac to return the favor of Jim making one of our races. Is so, I see you there.

FC
Infinity-54 #62
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Old Sep 11, 2012, 02:29 PM
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Yep, I am picking up my new to me boat later today and plan on making the race on the 15th at SFMYC. See ya there. Ryan
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 01:05 AM
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Just got the boat. It has airtronics servos in it. Are airtronics servos wired the same as Futaba stuff? Gonna look at the boat fully rigged later in the week and see what I need to do add a toping lift. Did Infinity class have an NCR this year? Ryan
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 09:19 AM
If it floats....sail it!
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Elk Grove, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rssailor View Post
It has airtronics servos in it. Are airtronics servos wired the same as Futaba stuff?
Ryan:

I am assuming the boat has the 80's servos, so the answer is no, Airtronics used a different wring convention than JR, Futaba or Hitec. If you plug the Airtronics servos into an Airtronics Rx of the same vintage, then there is no problem. However, if you plug them into any other brand of Rx, you will burn out the servos because the polarity of the power leads is reversed (the center lead is - rather than + as it is with all the other brands).

To see the color coding of the different brands and how to swap the wires on the Airtronics servos to make them work safely, see http://www.fatlion.com/sailplanes/servos.html.

As far as a NCR, I don't know. If you sail at SFMYC this Saturday, you could ask Jim Hensel, the Class Secretary. He races his boat there and told me earlier this week he plans to attend.

FC
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 10:05 AM
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I checked out the boat yesterday and looks like only the rudder servo is an ancient airtronics servo with the weird wiring. The former owner is sending me the adapter, should have it today, if not I will figure out how to reverse the two wires.
I hope the fleet has good turn out tomorrow. Ryan
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 11:47 AM
If it floats....sail it!
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Elk Grove, CA
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The adapter is a good short term solution for racing this weekend, but if it were me, I would replace that Airtronics servo at my earliest opportunity. Adapters are one more set of contacts and thus an additional point of failure, particularly since you will be sailing in salt water. The boat does not need a large rudder servo and a standard size analog servo with the modern connection pattern should be less than $30.

Try Craig's list for used parts if you want to go that way. There is a guy here in Sac that is selling off a huge selection of servos that he used in his planes. I called him asking if he had any of the newer high voltage servos, since I use 2S lipo packs. He didn't, but was willing to make me a deal on some really good 6V high torque digital Hitec's. You might be able to find something similar, or I could give you his phone number and he could mail the items to you.

FC
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Old Sep 14, 2012, 09:42 PM
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I think I am going to replace the old rudder servo with either a Hitec 5646wp or a Hitec 5086 WP. No sure how much power I should have to turn the rudder under load. Have had bad luck with the standard analog futaba servo's as rudder servos in my IOM. Wanna use something better. I am using Life pack 6.6 volts 1700 mah. Yeah would be interested in good Hitec digital servo from the guy you are refering to. Ryan
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 12:18 AM
If it floats....sail it!
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Elk Grove, CA
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The larger one of the two in the current WP series would be a good choice. The boat has a semi-balanced rudder so you don't need a huge amount of torque and I find the digitals give a very solid feel to the rudder. Anything over 80 oz-inches would do it, but more is always better.

I use the chart here (http://www.servocity.com/html/hitec_servos.html) as a way to compare both suitability and price.

I will PM you the guy's phone number.

FC
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Good to meet you today Steve. Had a lot of fun. Look forward to coming and sailing with the crew in Sacto in Oct and November. Gotta fix the boat and get my TX fixed. Gonna eithet find a stronger servo or maybe a servo city winch. Whats the deal with that funky plastic thing that acts as a compression post? Ryan
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 10:51 AM
If it floats....sail it!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rssailor View Post
Gonna eithet find a stronger servo or maybe a servo city winch. Whats the deal with that funky plastic thing that acts as a compression post? Ryan
Ryan:

Lots of the Santa Barbara guys use that Servocity Robo winch, but I think it is a little heavy, rather expensive and has more things to go wrong, but it certainly does the job. The HS-7954SH is cheaper, faster and run on 7.4V gives plenty of torque with a dual arm system. Plus, by making the two sides of the arm different lengths, you can individually vary the amount of throw and thus the amount movement of each sheet by moving the attachment point on the arm to match what you need for each boom - something you can't do easily with a winch.

The "plastic thing" is just what you thought: a compression post. The one on my boat, which I believe to be the original, is a section of CF tube (mast tubing) rather than plastic. Since the mast is deck stepped, without it, when the backstay or shrouds are tightened, the deck will compress. Too much pressure and it would probably crack the deck, so you need to use it....and it is part of the original boat structure so it is required by the class rules.

FC
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 02:30 PM
BabyBootLegger
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United States, CA, Alameda
Joined Nov 2010
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Hello,
I am a member of the SFMYC.
My Infinity-54 is hull #26.
My Sailwinch is out in repairs.
I will be at the lake today.
I will be reproducing the Probar Sailwinch with a heavy duty one-piece aluminum frame with ceramic/stainless steel hybrid bearings.
The plastic gears will be upgraded to anodized stainless steel gears and a bronze worm gear. The shafts will be upgraded to stainless steel. The output shaft will have a Servo City aluminum clamp hub for mounting the servo arm.
The motor controller will be upgraded to fully digital with a USB connect to PC.
These will be available around January 2013.
The price should be competitive with what is being sold in this class of Sailwinch.

Regards,
Giovanni
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