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Old Oct 21, 2012, 09:09 PM
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Now I know to get connectors presoldered
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 09:16 PM
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No it just takes patience. Soldering to the board is the easy part. I guess I just slipped. Plus you can't get my connectors "pre-soldered".
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Old Oct 21, 2012, 11:24 PM
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dude i dont know. i would PM davidT to see what that is.
how many pins?

i would assume its a voltage regulator, as its the first think powered in a circuit.
i would not risk it. *if* its no regulating the voltage as it should, it *could* cause brownouts leading to loss of signal. or if its not up to supplying the amps needed, same thing could happen. at any rate, dont really know much here.

*most* chips i use are pretty loose with the volts needed, like 2.7 to 6, tho others are exact, like 2.7 to 3*.6. at 4.2 volts you *might* fry somthing more important.
and if its the Voltage regualtor, the ESC probly will not work. most DC motors make lost of noise and a Voltage regulator is needed to prevent problems like computer resets.

got any better pics? kinda fuzzy.

try the same photo setup in the full sunlight. looks like you camera is haveing trouble getting enough light to keep the exposure time down.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 05:15 AM
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The component you mention is a capacitor on the 'inside' of the voltage regulator (output). I think you created a reverse polarity condition and tantalum caps can blow as you describe. If nothing else is blown and you remove the damaged cap it could still work. The cap provides smoothing and brownout resilience. If no luck PM or email me please.
David.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 07:00 AM
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davidT: are not tantalum caps fairly fragile compared to other caps?
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 08:50 AM
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Probably. But so are tiny receivers compared to a 6ch Orange :-)
Tantalums are used extensively where high capacity is needed in a small size.
dt.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 01:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David T View Post
The component you mention is a capacitor on the 'inside' of the voltage regulator (output). I think you created a reverse polarity condition and tantalum caps can blow as you describe. If nothing else is blown and you remove the damaged cap it could still work. The cap provides smoothing and brownout resilience. If no luck PM or email me please.
David.
Awesome thanks.



Quote:
Originally Posted by nemoskull View Post
davidT: are not tantalum caps fairly fragile compared to other caps?
Quote:
Originally Posted by David T View Post
Probably. But so are tiny receivers compared to a 6ch Orange :-)
Tantalums are used extensively where high capacity is needed in a small size.
dt.
Wait...you are telling me that the fact that I drove over it with a tank might have something to do with the fact that it's not working. I guess I need to find another receiver source.
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 04:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David T View Post
Your Rx job looks pretty good to me. It is difficult but a few things have helped me cope with fine soldering:

1. I use 0.27mm solder wire. Thicker solder tends to swamp the pads too quickly.

2. I use a simple 18 or 21W Antex iron. They have 0.5mm tips which are perfect.

3. Commercial tips wear out too quickly for me (even Wellers). So I now use 1.2mm tinned copper wire as the tip. I remove the supplied tip and hold my 1.2mm wire onto the heated part of the iron with a length of K&S brass tube. I file a new bevel on the wire almost each time I use it (while cold). You then need to tin the exposed copper fairly quickly as it comes up to melting temperature to prevent oxidising. I use these tips even for reworking a dry joint on the main chip.

4. A 2x loupe worked well initially but I now use a 5 diopter magnifying lamp.
Cheers, dt.
David,
Thanks for the info. Since I find myself soldering up your RX's on a regular basis, could you answer another question or two?

What temperature solder do you use, what variety of metals in the solder, and what temp do you set your soldering iron to?

Thanks,
Gordon
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 04:02 AM
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Hi Gordon,
I used to use a 40W Weller with a #8 magnastat tip. The #7 did not seem to conduct enough heat to their finest tip. But I use lead-free solder paste and often have to remove solder bridges and the lead-free builds up a varnish which prevents the tip from tinning. That was too frustrating.

So I now have small 18W and 25W Antex irons (eg: CS18). They have no temperature control. The tips in my DIY copper wire gets pitted as one uses them but it gets me through a soldering session and is so easily made 'new' again with a file.

I use tin/lead solder wire for general soldering. I have a reel of Multicore Ersin 381, Sn63 alloy, 0.27mm. I believe it is 5-core with rosin flux. I bought it on ebay.

I don't normally use a separate flux but do sometimes. I have a flux pen with is very easy to apply flux with its felt tip.
dt.
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Old Oct 09, 2013, 08:29 PM
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It's official that I busted the Rx. Since I got my car, I haven't really been investing money into RC. However I do have everything for this project (I think). I pretty much have a "for sale" thread completed for the servos, but I just don't know if I want to abandon the project.

Should I just make this my "last" micro and go out with a bang? All I would need is a new Rx41.
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Old Oct 09, 2013, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by nemoskull View Post
try to avoid solderin the rx if you can... its a bad idea to do so. (ask me how i know )
oops
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