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Old Oct 14, 2012, 12:33 PM
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The lack of small parts and support from some of the newer companies is indeed frustrating and finding metric nuts and bolts has always been an adventure. I still think you can get away with the smaller nut. I don't have mine in front of me but all one would need is for the nut to grab just enough to screw the assembly on the last couple turns. It might not even need any glue but one could grease up the whole works and use epoxy to rework the pocket or perhaps even get by with a drop of CA. Just take a 3mm bolt and grease it with Vaseline or oil, but don't get any on the yoke or nut, and add a drop of glue.

If your yoke is loose enough to slide on the prop shaft then it's not an issue. Simply run the nut, of any size, all the way on and then just slide the yoke on. As long as the nuts jam each other it really shouldn't matter that the innermost one doesn't fill the pocket.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 04:08 PM
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yes, but the asw28 and the ask21 have been in the market for several years.

and thanks for your advice.
i still will keep trying to learn where those guys that make the planes get the nut.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 09:13 AM
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Here are photos of my ST Models ASW-28 modified wing spar, cut in half with aluminum shaft and and protractor showing 7.5~8 deg total dihedral.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 12:02 PM
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I just rechecked mine and I'm also at 8 degrees. So far so good on the wing pins too. Much more positive lock and it's easier to assemble. Also, since the wing root pockets were getting a little loose, I glassed them and the wing roots then used some Gorilla Glue to fill the gaps. No more wing rock!
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by studioRS View Post
Here are photos of my ST Models ASW-28 modified wing spar, cut in half with aluminum shaft and and protractor showing 7.5~8 deg total dihedral.
Is that the one with the aluminum tent peg inside?
(Got one on my shopping list!)
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 05:32 PM
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Is that the one with the aluminum tent peg inside?
(Got one on my shopping list!)
Yes this is the one with the aluminum tent peg in it! After 10 or so flights, I've had to re glue with more medium CA, but seems to be holding now. I might wrap the joint with fiberglass and CA in the future.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 06:46 PM
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Talking about how some of these things fly.....hadn't heard of 'VTPR' style until a few moments ago.
Drawings in the sand (2 min 57 sec)


Y'all?
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 07:23 PM
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Yeah, kewl stuff. Looks like a natural seabird, some fancy piloting skills there. I think that was a Le Fish design?
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 10:29 PM
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Luckily I don't leave near a convenient slope or that video would cost me more money!
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 06:53 AM
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Slope soaring at the beach is 6hr drive one way for me. Have to go to Cape Cod, MA once there is pretty good as long as the winds are right. That does looks fun, but I prefer scale over something that wiggles around all over the place.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:40 AM
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Thompson;
On your CA-Glassing of the winglets. I saw where you ran a bead of CA along the TE & LE.
Do you do one then the other, pinching it up as you 'draw' the 2nd bead to tauten up the cloth & keep wrinkles out?

What tautens the linen down onto the underlying wing surface? Does the cloth expand while wetted with the CA and draw down tight in the drying process?

Finally, I presume after everything dries that's when you 'spackle' the fabric weave-openings, then let that dry, is that right? Then sand? Then the WBPU final coat(s)? And finally, paint?
I'm a little unsure of that final finishing process -- what exact steps after the CA-Clothing is applied & dried. Would you mind posting a quick outline of same?

MUCH thanks!
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 11:37 AM
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When I did my winglets, with Skyloft, the surface tension of the CA pulled the cloth down as I went.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Thompson;
On your CA-Glassing of the winglets. I saw where you ran a bead of CA along the TE & LE.
Do you do one then the other, pinching it up as you 'draw' the 2nd bead to tauten up the cloth & keep wrinkles out?

What tautens the linen down onto the underlying wing surface? Does the cloth expand while wetted with the CA and draw down tight in the drying process?

Finally, I presume after everything dries that's when you 'spackle' the fabric weave-openings, then let that dry, is that right? Then sand? Then the WBPU final coat(s)? And finally, paint?
I'm a little unsure of that final finishing process -- what exact steps after the CA-Clothing is applied & dried. Would you mind posting a quick outline of same?

MUCH thanks!
Here are the steps for my studioRS fibercloth + CA covering.

Tools, Parts
- Choose a cloth from 200-300 thread count, linen and or cotton mix will work, test to see how well this soaks up CA on a piece of EPO foam. If the CA has a hard time soaking in, then get a different cloth. You need a cloth that will soak up the CA, not sit on top. It needs to go through and adhere to the EPO foam.
- Zap Medium CA, large 4oz bottle (or equivelent as Peter recommends HK brand).
- #11 x-acto blade.
- Good scissors to cut cloth.
- Lighweight spackle.
- Sandpaper
- Large paperclip bent straight
- Dust mask
- Eye protection
- Fan for CA odors and curing vapors
- Primer and paint

Steps

1. Clean the EPO foam mould residue off with isopropyl alchohol, let dry.

2. Use lightwieght spackle to fill any holes and smooth out bumps and repairs. Thin with a very little amount of water. Let dry overnight.

3. Sand spackle, re-apply if needed (let dry overnight), re-sand to get as smooth surface as you can. USE your mask!

4. Pre-cut each peice of cloth to dry fit the fuselage or winglet parts, leave some extra overhang to cut off later. You will have many peices to cover a fuselage.

5. Use 3M Super77 spray glue (or equivelent) and lightly spray the backside of the cloth peice to be fitted so it can stick to the foam surface. Don't need to let the Super77 dry.

6. Apply one section at a time, taking care by cutting slits on rounded corner areas (think upholstery). Use CA to lock down an edge so you can lightly stretch the cloth to fit the contours. This is where you get ALL the wrinkles out. Take your time, re-position if needed, take it back off use more 3M Super77, just get it smooth and spray glued down at this step. Butt sections together, try not to overlap as this will show in the finished fuselage.

7. Use CA to close up seams and use the paperclip to help secure the cloth while CA cures. Sometimes you might need kicker. The 3M Super77 is what holds the cloth to the foam, the CA soaks in and then becomes one.

8. After the edges are secure of the peice you applied, soak the applied section with CA so the cloth is saturated. use a back and forth motion, go slowly - take your time and let the gravity feed the flow - no need to squeeze. Also, no need to over apply and get runs and drips.

9. You should have a Frankenstein looking beast at this point with raised seams, bumpy CA. Dont' worry it will get sanded.

10. Sand the CA down to as smooth a buttery finish as you can get. You will go into some of the cloth, but if you apply the CA right and enough, but not too much, you shouldn't sand off most of the cloth. NOTE: if you feel the thickness needs to increase you can re-apply the CA, use a piece of 1/16 ply to smooth it around. Sand again to buttery smooth finish. USE your mask!

11. Prime the surface. Fix any imperfections with filler, sand if needed. Reapply primer, sand again. At this point you can use most any paint as it will not be touching the EPO foam, I found Krylon White works. Acrylic paints are a good choice. Keep your work smooth. USE your mask!

12. Paint the color of choice. USE your mask!

AUW should only increase 100g for a 2 meter sailplane fuselage including the tail fin and rudder.

Hope this helps, Thompson
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 05:19 PM
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Yass SUH! That looks like an excellent set of instructions to follow, Thompson....the only thing left out was the experience *LOL* & that, you can't write down.
Thank you for taking the time - THANK you! (And I'm typing this with my mask!)

[Addendum]:
Let me ask a question re step 4. If the shape's available to the perp, eg a wing....
What about applying a larger piece which would, rather than have a bead run along each of LE & TE, be merely 'folded' around the LE & beaded along the TE, in effect using one piece of fabric rather than two? (Hope that makes sense?) Seems it would save considerable trimming (along the LE) and with no seam, be a bit smoother in the end.
Again, thanks!
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Yass SUH! That looks like an excellent set of instructions to follow, Thompson....the only thing left out was the experience *LOL* & that, you can't write down.
Thank you for taking the time - THANK you! (And I'm typing this with my mask!)

[Addendum]:
Let me ask a question re step 4. If the shape's available to the perp, eg a wing....
What about applying a larger piece which would, rather than have a bead run along each of LE & TE, be merely 'folded' around the LE & beaded along the TE, in effect using one piece of fabric rather than two? (Hope that makes sense?) Seems it would save considerable trimming (along the LE) and with no seam, be a bit smoother in the end.
Again, thanks!
Yes, totally agree less seams the better. The complete cloth will get soaked with CA anyway, but if you have the capacity to stretch the fabric so it becomes as smooth as possible this would be one good way to do it. With my winglets, it was easier to fit the fabric like the photos show, then trim with xacto #11 and sanding. I ended up adding more CA after sanding the cloth the first time, then sanding it down again, adding more CA, repeat. when you add the CA then sand it down, you will see the glass like results. Paint just makes it even better.

Glad to help fellow modelers.

Cheers, Thompson
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