HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 02:52 PM
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Drum, Pa
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I don't need another plane but this looks real nice. Also works with 2200 3S packs I already have. Floats could use some color but easy enough to do with a can.
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 03:25 PM
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United States, KY, Louisville
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Picked mine up today! Yey!

It smells like new shoes. Haha
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 06:09 PM
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what kind of battery connector does the ESC have? can i use a PZ battery on the ESC directly?
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 06:31 PM
That's a funny word
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It comes with ST 3.5 connectors http://www.supertigre.com/electric-power/adapters.html
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 08:20 PM
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Man...... This is tempting.......
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 06:19 AM
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Awesome pics - thanks! Looks good on the ground can't wait to hear for flight report.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 06:50 AM
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Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
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Agreed. Good pictures, SkylineFlyer.

How about one down through the hatch in the top of the cockpit, showing the two rod stoppers for the tail?

My friend with the ST Model one (whose elevator pushrod slipped out) said those were prefitted at the factory, so he hadn't thought to tighten them... You'll need to tighten them
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 07:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pda4you View Post
Awesome pics - thanks! Looks good on the ground can't wait to hear for flight report.
Thanks pda4you. :-)


Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy2No View Post
Agreed. Good pictures, SkylineFlyer.

How about one down through the hatch in the top of the cockpit, showing the two rod stoppers for the tail?

My friend with the ST Model one (whose elevator pushrod slipped out) said those were prefitted at the factory, so he hadn't thought to tighten them... You'll need to tighten them
You'll definitely want to remove the set screw and add thread locker also. Its recommended in manual. After everything is built and you have finalized your trim settings, I add a drop of THICK CA to each side of the push rod stopper, then I spray some kicker to quickly harden the CA to keep it from possibly dripping down onto the servo itself.

Heres a video I did for a walk around for the plane.

FlyZone DeHavilland Beaver Select Scale Review (4 min 0 sec)
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 07:56 AM
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The LEDs look cool too. Nice media Jon.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 08:57 AM
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Mine arrives at the office tomorrow...It's going to be hard to get any work done
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 09:13 AM
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USA, IL, Champaign
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkylineFlyer View Post
Thanks pda4you. :-)




You'll definitely want to remove the set screw and add thread locker also. Its recommended in manual. After everything is built and you have finalized your trim settings, I add a drop of THICK CA to each side of the push rod stopper, then I spray some kicker to quickly harden the CA to keep it from possibly dripping down onto the servo itself.

Heres a video I did for a walk around for the plane.
Thanks for the pics, video and very good information. I would not be too concerned about the amount of the flap throw on this model. You mentioned just how light the plane is which translates into very light wing loading. Flaps are really not needed at all. Using flaps with the throw you've shown in the video will be highly effective.

When flying off of water, the most important item to address is waterproofing. I wonder if Hobbico did any waterproofing on the rx and esc? We are using Corrosion X on the ESC and RX on our float planes. You can use a balloon-cable tie on the RX as an alternative. Before flying off of water I read that YOU WILL FLIP OVER YOUR PLANE, you can count on it. We have been flying on water for two years now. I have found that no matter how good you think you are on the sticks, a quick wind shift/gust will flip these planes over in a heartbeat. Waterproofing is essential unless you want to keep replacing the ESC and RX and cut your flying day short.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 09:37 AM
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Looks really sweet. Thanks Skyline.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 10:26 AM
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Thanks for pics!! love those panel details
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 12:30 PM
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Manchester, UK
Joined Nov 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkylineFlyer View Post
You'll definitely want to remove the set screw and add thread locker also. Its recommended in manual. After everything is built and you have finalized your trim settings, I add a drop of THICK CA to each side of the push rod stopper, then I spray some kicker to quickly harden the CA to keep it from possibly dripping down onto the servo itself.
It doesn't surprise me to find my friend never read the manual

I've never felt the need to use threadlocker on a set screw, but I do sometimes replace set screws that come with things with a better one. On some, the sides of the hole in the head wear away before you can tighten them enough - usually the allen key get stuck because it digs into the soft crappy metal instead of turning it hard enough.

Putting CA on is a bit too permanent, for my liking. It means cutting or breaking the rod stopper off, if you ever need to remove it.
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