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Old Nov 07, 2012, 09:09 PM
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DismayingObservation's Avatar
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Originally Posted by beetyii View Post

In a few hours she'll be finished.

Rolf
I'm slightly ahead of you. The wing is in place and so are the foam fillets on the underside.

Ran into a problem: Somehow, one of those fillets managed to become lost. My work area is clean, but I couldn't find it and I may have inadvertently thrown it out. I couldn't even find it in the recycling bin.

Thankfully, the two are mirror images. I traced the surviving half onto a bit of the unused Depron, cut it out with a brand new blade and voila! Perfect match after minimal trimming even without the decals and it'll be utterly invisible once the decals are in place.

FWIW, I went ahead and applied the swastikas to mine. I was really torn as to whether or not I should do so (it is still pretty much the most hated symbol on earth and rightfully so), but I got the OK from RCGroups since a lot of people who build German subjects put them on as scale detail. I really have to credit Jon for making those stickers optional.
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Old Nov 07, 2012, 11:31 PM
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Czech Republic, South Moravian Region, Brno
Joined Mar 2012
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Hi beetyii,
nice work. I paint it in the same manner also. Before finishing think about space for 4-5g of lead which will be needed in the front of model in order to balance it correctly.

Skacee
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 12:10 AM
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Czech Republic, South Moravian Region, Brno
Joined Mar 2012
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Here are some of photos from built:

I use the shrink tubing as well as beetyii for ailerons controls.


Thin cover for landing gear.


I just want to show the bending of rods. It helps me for better performance.
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 02:26 AM
Microaces Wingman
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UK. Dorset
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skacee View Post
Hi beetyii,
nice work. I paint it in the same manner also. Before finishing think about space for 4-5g of lead which will be needed in the front of model in order to balance it correctly.

Skacee
I'm suprised you needed any weight to balance the Fw. All the aircraft I've built needed nothing. They balanced precisely with 7.6g battery in place. Did you use lead based paint on those edges?
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 05:36 AM
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Czech Republic, South Moravian Region, Brno
Joined Mar 2012
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May be My way of doing. Apologize to Jon. He did precise work. I think it could be just about +0,5 gram (whatever - paint, glue etc) in the tail and then you need more in the front - simple leverage law. I always try to check everything to be right before flight, so there is minimum suprises. And it flies and looks very well.
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 08:57 AM
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Essen/Germany
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4 - 5 g of deadweight ?

I don't hope so ...



Rolf
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 09:30 AM
Microaces Wingman
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UK. Dorset
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beetyii View Post
4 - 5 g of deadweight ?

I don't hope so ...



Rolf
Only if you have a pot of Skacee's special lead edging paint

Otherwise the Fw190 should build up without any 'dead weight' required.

It should be perfectly balanced if built as per instructions. The only thing to keep the nose down under increased power is a little down thrust angle. (Due to the short nose).

Jon
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 04:25 PM
Make the best of all you have
beetyii's Avatar
Essen/Germany
Joined Dec 2006
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NO deadweight necessary for the given CG.

CG is spot on !

66,5g all in all.



She really looks nice with some extra paint to cover "the white edges".





Take your time when installing the electronic (routing of cables ...) and the pushrods for ruder and elevator !



Some findings :

Control horns are to stiff - difficult to bend them in order to install the steering, rods made of a more flexible material would be nice.

Holes in the control horns are way too small - they are ~ 0,5mm and need to be ~0,65- 0,7mm.

You have to widen the plastic tube (the rods go through) especally in the front, after all is installed and glued.

I used a 3mm carbon rod that i pushed through the plastic tube to widen it in the front where the fuselage is made by 4 pieces of depron.

Now the rods of the elevator and ruder run effortless and the reset is fine.

Some parts of the decals (where they are bend around corners - ruder, elevator, aileron) sometimes have a tendency to get loose - I glued them with a small brush and thinned UHU POR.

There isn't much room under the "hood" on both sides, you have to make a very clean installation to get the rods run free on the left side and to be able to close the hood on the right side, you have to think about your installation, too.







The wire off the gear has one point where you should put a "decal" around it to make a joint of the "loose wire" - I used some shrink tubing at this point to make a stronger bonding.

It was much fun to built the first FW 190 No° 8 for a club member and I've learned a lot - now it's time for my own FW 190 No° 13






Rolf
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 06:41 PM
Lou
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United States, VA, Waynesboro
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I am not familiar with the Spektgrum gear thus the questions.

The specs call for the AR6400 however, that is discontinued. I take it the AR6410L will work? Are they the same size?

I would like to use one of these planes for indoor flying this winter. Any recommendations for a prop that will provide the needed thrust for the slower flight I will need for a small gym?

thanks
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Old Nov 08, 2012, 06:51 PM
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So far so good on my end. I'd preinstalled the pushrods on the receiver so I installed the receiver and ESC before the motor mount. I used Dubro micro horns out back and I had to do just a little bit of bending to get the surfaces straight. More down elevator than up which seems to be a mechanical issue at the servo. I may do a bit of tweaking...or not if it flies well.

Jon, how in heck did you paint that spiral on the spinner?

PS: GREAT idea with that tubing, Rolf!
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 02:49 AM
Microaces Wingman
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UK. Dorset
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Obake View Post
I am not familiar with the Spektgrum gear thus the questions.

The specs call for the AR6400 however, that is discontinued. I take it the AR6410L will work? Are they the same size?

I would like to use one of these planes for indoor flying this winter. Any recommendations for a prop that will provide the needed thrust for the slower flight I will need for a small gym?

thanks
Hi Obake, the AR6410L will work as well. It has the same PCB size so will fit in the clip no problem.

As for the prop, I dont think there is anything else out there that will provide a slower flight. What I find, as an inexperienced indoor flyer is a mix of rudder and about 8-10% opposite aileron provides a great way to turn in tight spots without loosing lift at lower speeds indoors.

Jon
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 03:18 AM
Microaces Wingman
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UK. Dorset
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Originally Posted by DismayingObservation View Post
Jon, how in heck did you paint that spiral on the spinner?
It's quite easy really. If you paint the spinner in the lighter colour first. I have an airbrush but it can equally be done with paintbrush. Several coats if necessary.

let it dry thoroughly. Then roll a peice of Blutack into a tappered, thin sauasage, flatten it and tidy the sides up by butting the edge of a ruler up against them.

Place the blutack strip in a spiral on the painted spinner, starting at the tip and working down. This masks off a spiral so you can now paint the darker colour of the spinner.

Once dry, whip off the blutack mask (carefully so as not to remove the base paint) and hey presto, a spiral spinner.
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Last edited by deadbird; Nov 09, 2012 at 08:07 AM.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 06:38 AM
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beetyii's Avatar
Essen/Germany
Joined Dec 2006
569 Posts
@ Jon

Do you have tested the range of the CG - for and afterwards the CG of 33mm ?

I love this little bird - it's fantastic !

I've totally forgotten to do the "This is not a bomb" thing

Now with tank 67g.






Will start my FW 190 in a few minutes - let the games begin ...


3 ...

2 ...

1 ...

Go !



Rolf
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 11:49 AM
Microaces Wingman
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UK. Dorset
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beetyii View Post
@ Jon

Do you have tested the range of the CG - for and afterwards the CG of 33mm ?
Loads of testing. Aft of 33mm it becomes tail heavy very quickly. Nose heavy coming forward is not too big an issue. With the Fw, 33mm represents the point where the tail heavy characteristics have just dissapeared and so it's quite likely that anyone adding weight by painting or adding to the model with extra detail behind the COG wil need to add bit of nose weight.

Jon
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 12:04 PM
Make the best of all you have
beetyii's Avatar
Essen/Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deadbird View Post
33mm represents the point where the tail heavy characteristics have just dissapeared and so it's quite likely that anyone adding weight by painting or adding to the model with extra detail behind the COG wil need to add bit of nose weight.

Jon

Thank you,

I will take your hint and try to make the rear as light as possible.

I started with the wing and tried to affix the foil with the help of water and a little washing up liquid - very nice solution, now you can correct the position of the self adhesive foil if you want to.

When gluing the two fuselage parts together, I will use this method, too.

It takes some more time, because you have to dry the water with a hairdryer in order to make a good bond but it's worth the time.

This method makes a perfect fit for all parts.







Rolf
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