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Old Sep 05, 2012, 07:58 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Building my wing.



So if you want to follow along, here goes making the full Clark 'Y' wing panel. I start by cutting the lower center panel. All one piece as it is flat. Center cord is 10.5" and end where the tips join is 10" cord.

I marked everything with a Sharpie Marker, and photos show my measurements if you want to copy or see them.

Fred



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Old Sep 05, 2012, 08:09 PM
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So remember to complete all the tiny details. We remove the plastic skin if you use fff blue foam, rolling it off with a dowel works wonders, and I do the parts after cutting them out. This way I can measure and mark the skins with a Sharpie to do the cutting.

Pre-form some radius work into your panels using the pipe on padded surface trick. Look to the photos, only the LE of the bottom skin please, and the whole panel on the top skin.

Fred



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Old Sep 05, 2012, 08:11 PM
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Forgot this photo.


Removing the skin from the fff blue fom, center wing panel, top and bottom saves 7g.


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Old Sep 05, 2012, 08:17 PM
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Don't forget to sand the taper into the Trailing Edge. Using 80 grit paper on a block of wood really makes quick work of this. See photos and remember blue tape to set finished edge, and part at edge of bench so sanding block overhangs.

TLAR for the small section at the very rear of the panel. I shoot for about 1/16" so I end up with a 1/8" TE when we double both skins. My 1 1/2" wide cut ends up mating to this airfoil well.

Fred




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Old Sep 05, 2012, 09:56 PM
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Making spars is next, just layout and cut to size from the fff foam, and to length of the panel. I marked all the measurements on mine to archive the data and to show you the sizes. You do not have to mark yours, LOL.

Fred




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Old Sep 05, 2012, 10:13 PM
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Now I connected the markings on the bottom skin with Sharpie lines and my straight edge, so I could keep the spar edges straight. Foam is flexable after all! LOL.

Then I glued all the spars to the bottom skin. I did use epoxy (a 90 second variety) just because I wanted a quick but non brittle joint. Thick foam safe CyA would be good and very fast, but expensive. If you have more patience than me, GG or a flexable Water based type might be in order.

Fred



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Old Sep 05, 2012, 10:18 PM
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At this point, push those pins up through the foam to make marks where the hinge gap is located so later we can mark the next skin, and cut control surfaces free later too.

Fred



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Old Sep 05, 2012, 10:29 PM
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So now not to be boring, but we need two tip panels that will be set to 6 degrees of dihedral each. These are 10" at their root, and 8" at their tips. I made mine joined at the center to do the initial cuts, sanding taper, marks, and lines. Then they were cut in half, saving lots of layout time.

Go ahead ad do the form rolling to get them ready for gluing and assembly later.

Fred


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Old Sep 05, 2012, 10:33 PM
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I glued down the new spars, and taped the panels next to the center panel so I knew my spars would be aligned perfect where they join later. Then we do the other side the same.

Fred




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Old Sep 05, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Now I sand the spars to blend like we did on that test piece. This time a yellow Highlighter was my marking medium to sand down to. After the tip panel spars were sanded, I did the center panel, but also held panels together so ever spar is blended, even across panels. We should get a very true surfaced wing this way.

Fred




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Old Sep 05, 2012, 10:42 PM
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Added the front strips for Leading Edge, 1/2" tall piece of foam, and the 1/4" wide shim. Then I trimmed the very front of the LE on the top skin so it would sit in the glue joint area nice fitting and making for a good glue joint. Photos should clear this all up.

Fred




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Old Sep 05, 2012, 11:56 PM
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Meat and potatos now, or should we say glue.

3 types of glue used to assemble the top skin for me.

12-15 minute epoxy for the Leading edge joint, and for the hinge line (I don't want glue expanding and raising or shifting the LE, or going into my hinge gap). I wanted a bit of working tme, but not slooowww 30 minute type!

Gorilla Glue, white type, for the tops of the other spars. Just to make sure all gaps are taken up, and a strong, light, expanding glue is perfect here. Don't forget a tiny bit of moisture spritzed on. The glue will expand out of the way, and not lift the skin off the spars if there is reasonable weight aplied on top of the skin.

Contact cement for the tapered Trailing Edge. This is a very large surface and most glues would add a bunch of weight t be effective. Contact Cement is good on large contact areas, fairly light, and plenty strong for a TE. I show there are many Contact Cements you may use, but I like the Elmer's Rubber Cement myself.

Fred



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Old Sep 06, 2012, 12:09 AM
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Now it's place 1/8" shims under front edge of lower wing skin, apply glues, set the top skin in place. Remove wax paper and pres that area together to stick the TE tapers together, and weight the whole wing while glue cures, about 1 hour before handling.

OK, so looks real complex, but the photos are the method and it really didn't take long once we have all our measurements identified. following the order I presented the phots flows real clean and quick.

Fred



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Old Sep 06, 2012, 12:11 AM
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United States, IL, Joliet
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Iam glad you decided to make it into a full airfoil wing Freddie. Iam doing the same on my BD-5 build and watching yours has helped me out some. I have never built a full wing with foam before and i want it to stay light but not light enough to fold up while flying. I am not a big fan of flat wings and i hope by doing a full wing airfoil it will give it some more lift and glide better on landing's .Looks great Freddie . joe
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Old Sep 06, 2012, 12:13 AM
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So I am happy to have my wing panels done and posted for your enjoyment. I will not glue them together yet. I will decide on servo placement and a few other things so I will move on for now. Major progress has been made, and the airframe is coming along rather quick for my building style anyway.

Fred



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