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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:43 AM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Making pushrods and the tubes to guide them. I collect small cocktail and coffee stiring straws and join them, using the red, red and white striped, and white ones shown because they are ever so slightly a different size. Then I use a small section of Q-tip tubing (purple on these) at the entry and exit points to really toughen up the ends so they will never split and they also act as a good bearing surface!

Hey Joe, talk about cheap, these straws are everwhere and stores put them out for us model builders in ample quanity.


Fred


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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:52 AM
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Omaha Nebraska
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So to add the elevator and rudder servos I fashoned a tray out of a paint stirring stick. Uh-oh, more free stuff Joe! Basswood at it's finest! I put these up front because I want to make sure the CG comes out closer on this short tailed bird!

I mounted the servo tray sort of strange in that the servos mount and adjust from the top, but are deeper than the crutch so my pushrods would follow the crutch floor and clear the under wing area best. If maintenance is needed later it will work out but might be a bit tight!

Fred


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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:56 AM
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Omaha Nebraska
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You can see the the pushrod and snakes install in this photo, and the bell crank hookup. I also made a tube to guide my 72mhz RX antenna. Yes I am using my old radio on this builld because why waste good equipment! Cheaper if you already own it, right!

Fred

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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:02 AM
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Omaha Nebraska
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Last I added the elevator pushrod and servo, making all clearance cuts and such needed to install, adjust, and for working room. E-Z connectors are used to aid in maintenance and adjustments. Coming along now and shouldn't be long!

Fred


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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:28 AM
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United States, IL, Joliet
Joined Jun 2009
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If there is one thing both of us are sure of freddie is that both of us are dam cheap.lol I buy at the flea markets and garage sales so much i try to haggle the price down at real stores freddie.lmao
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 12:04 PM
*GRAVITY* I hate it :(
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USA, CA, Downey
Joined Jan 2010
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OLD A10 thread

DBL post sorry
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Last edited by Sparken57; Oct 23, 2012 at 12:11 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 12:08 PM
*GRAVITY* I hate it :(
Sparken57's Avatar
USA, CA, Downey
Joined Jan 2010
433 Posts
OLD A10 thread

Hay Fred have you seen this old thread started by Rusty-Gunn.Started in 2008 last post May this year.this is a build buy a guy.JonesyMj I think on page 7.I hope the link is right. anyway Happy Building. Ken
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=100
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Last edited by Sparken57; Oct 23, 2012 at 12:13 PM. Reason: correcting name JonesyMj
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 12:40 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sparken57 View Post
Hay Fred have you seen this old thread started by Rusty-Gunn.Started in 2008 last post May this year.this is a build buy a guy.JonesyMj I think on page 7.I hope the link is right. anyway Happy Building. Ken
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=100
Hey Ken! I did not see that one. Pretty col and looks to be a fairly quick build. Looks like there may be hope for my over weight contraption!

Thanks so much for sharing and the link!

Fred
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 12:42 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Next I closed up the top of fuselage, aft of the cockpit. I shouldn't need to go back into this area for the life of the bird. X-Acto if I'm wrong!

Fred



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Old Oct 23, 2012, 12:53 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Cooling air and my solution......


So I will have 20 anps on tap at WOT with my bird, so I have an older FMA ESC that is rated at 30 amps. Since it will be my preferance to keep the gear enclosed and I only need one ESC to run 2 brushed motors, I decided I would also like the ESC to be forward of the CG. I will then be able to cool the ESC and LiPo battery all with one method.

If you have followed my builds you will know I love using the NACA Submerged Intake (and reversed for exhaust). Very low drag from this and very effective at it's functioning. So I am including a photo of how to make your own, and showing you how easy it is to make one of these babies! You can print out the Intake sheet and use a reduced or enlarged copy to cut out the intake shape after figuring what size you want.

We cut out the shape and for this I used 3mm depron I had around. Then we need two angled side walls, as I call them ramps. Follow along and see how easy this really is.

Fred


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Old Oct 23, 2012, 01:02 PM
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So I use the rolling pin method to pre shape the ramps to fit the intake cutout. I then glue the ramps to the inside edge of the intake cutout (CyA here was quick and easy). Then we just glue and pinch the intake shape floor against the ramps. Sand it flush, and we are done!

Fred


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Old Oct 23, 2012, 01:07 PM
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Omaha Nebraska
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Since this section is the rear, bottom skin, and it also sits up against the trailing edge of the wing, I wanted similar ding and wear protection like I have been adding throughout the build. I epoxy a thin strip of manila folder card stock to the edge of the shin that will butt up against the wing. Then I did a layer of 3/4 ounce glass and epoxy, sanded the excess off. Finally I also put a layer of silkspan and glue over this so the finish will remain the same throughout. Now when I glue this skin on, I won't have to struggle to cover this inside edge.

Fred


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Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Boone, Iowa, United States
Joined Feb 2002
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with your homemade push rods does a straw slide inside another straw or does the metal wire run the whole length. Maybe I missed it but what kind of wire do you use. Again another informative thread.

Thanks
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 09:04 PM
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Wilfor's Avatar
150 mile house B.C. Canada
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Freddie what plane is that your hiding on the side of your tool box ? i didnt think you used KF airfoils anymore
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 10:15 PM
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Freddie B's Avatar
Omaha Nebraska
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Quote:
Originally Posted by denverone View Post
with your homemade push rods does a straw slide inside another straw or does the metal wire run the whole length. Maybe I missed it but what kind of wire do you use. Again another informative thread.

Thanks
Straw has a 10mm section (coupler) added at end, then another straw is inserted in that. And then if you need more, another coupler, then straw. Coupler at both ends with a Q-tip in that. Hope that makes sense???? Maybe look at photo after reading this paragraph?

Wire is standard Piano Wire, called Music Wire most often. It is a hardeded steel wire. K&S sells 36" lengths at the hobbey store, and online stores. I used a 1mm (.039" dia) for rudder, and will use a 0.8mm (.032" dia) on elevator.

Thank you for the kind words and if there is any more questions let me know!

Fred
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