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Old Dec 11, 2012, 08:26 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
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Mtb - I certainly considered a card cone and it may have been easier! And, it would have given more internal clearance.. I patched one up from scraps of 3/8" soft balsa, hollowed it out and cut it to fit over the spars, horns etc. When I had glued it in place, the elevator didn't move Some glue had run down inside and fixed the el pushrod to the balsa cone...... Off it came, the pushrod/horn bend a little and back on. For some reason, the balsa reacted to the final paint spray and grainy lumps popped up all over.....so sanded back, a couple of coats of dope, sanded lightly and then sprayed an unthinned very light mist of paint - the Tamiya thinners (iso alc.) must have reacted with resin in the wood maybe.......

Anyway, all is well now as long as the camera shots are 'stand-off'

For anyone building from this plan, I'd STRONGLY reccomend temporarily fixing the semi finished tailcone to the fuselage and doing most of the finishing before adding the elevators, rudder and their linkage. Very hard to work around......

Now I can fit the servos - easy job for a change

Pat
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Old Dec 12, 2012, 06:51 AM
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Aylesbury, Buckinghamshire, Great Britain (UK)
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Looking great Pat

Mike
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 03:47 AM
Making a Dynam Razorback Snafu
Tartago's Avatar
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That cockpit looks fabulous !
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 04:19 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,961 Posts
What a Pane.......

My 'fabulous' cockpit may well become 'unfabulous' if the glazing isn't successful
After finishing the tail installation, the tail servos were installed. Both are full size and ball bearing, withe rudder/tailwheel unit being metal geared as well. The picture shows the few extra inches needed to extend the 1 metre long pushrods.

Now the exciting stuff - I have made a start on the glazing. After some minor trials, it was decided to apply the glazing in separate panels and so far has worked albeit a little experimental! I have tried just bending and glueing flat acetate sheet over a couple of panes and when veiwed side on, is quite acceptable, but no matter how well it fits to the four curved edges, it is still a 'flat sheet' and doesn't look quite right. I may use that technique on the sides and bottom where it will be less obvious. The upper and forward panes need to be properly compound curved so my trusty Russel Hobbs kettle provided exactly the right shape for the larger panes and a few were cut from the plastic after heating and pulling it against the kettle. Unfortunately, the kettle leaves some minor ripples in the plastic but I can live with that.

After cleaning paint and glue from the ply frame, a tiny bead of Pacer '560' Canopy glue was run around the recess and the cut and sized clear sheet was pressed into place and clamped/taped for several hours. Any excess glue was removed inside and out with a damp cotton bud.

So far it is working. A better method of forming the panels might be to make a couple of vac-forming plugs giving the curvatures needed and cutting panes from that. Still cogitating on how to finish the joints between the panels. I may try masking/filling/painting. Food for thought.

Pat
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 05:32 PM
Registerd Beaver
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Australia, WA, Warwick
Joined Jul 2003
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Hi Pat,
This is looking fantastic!..
I'll send you a PM to get you address and I'll send you some of my aluminium duct tape.
It is super-sticky and I use it for my canopy's.

It does great framing on an acetate canopy and may be ideal for you covering on the panes.
You simply just paint straight onto it and it comes out perfect.

- Phil
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 06:08 PM
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I do hope this model isn't prone to nosing over on take-off or landing

Mike
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Old Dec 13, 2012, 06:34 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,961 Posts
Thanks Phil. PM sent.
Mike - I've thought long and hard about that one The lower starboard side of the 'canopy' is actually almost solid as it contains the bomb aiming and camera gear etc. The model can have a fore-aft bulkhead to help absorb any shock.
Other than that, I plan on using some magnets at the lower front that can allow the nose to swing upward if it gets a bump.
Then again, if it all looks nice enough, I might hang it from the ceiling and not fly it
Pat
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 03:05 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
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No great progress - it takes about 4 hours to add a single pane to the nose glazing. Actually, 3 hours of that is waiting for the glue to set...so I got on with the last big structural task and finished sheeting the wing undersurface.
For anyone thinking of building this aircraft, check out the shape of the belly under the wing. I suspect the Maund plan isn't quite right and no detail is on the plan either - esp where it blends front and rear with the fuselage. The bomb bay doors appear to be straight in the few photos I've found of underneath but the are no 'flat' areas on the model. No one will look there anyway! Also, the forward edge of the wing has dowels to locate into the forward bulkhead so the wing must be angled forward to get it in place - a closefitted fairing in front wouldn't work. I'll have a slight wedge-shaped gap.
I'm rambling on to prove I'm getting senile or just confused

Pat
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 04:41 PM
Registerd Beaver
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Good notes Pat, a couple of shots here show the profile of that area and it seems to be curves as well..


phil
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Old Dec 14, 2012, 04:53 PM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,961 Posts
Good pictures Phil - maybe the bay doors had a curved hinge edge but when open SEEMED to be in a straight line. I'm not spending too much time on this area so will blend them in and maybe ink in some panel lines..

That's a nice model - I usually get myself a plastic kit of a project for just that reason - build plans dont/cant always show the subtleties in odd areas

I've just fitted the radiators in place so I can smooth around them. Also checking out if the U/C fairlings are the same - left/right. If so, I may make a plug and vac form them. The plan shows bent tin doors but as they are sightly compound curves, moulded plastic might be easier (F/G even better)

Pat (musing)
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 02:54 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
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A few more holes filled in. The four servo access hatches were framed up and 1/32 ply covers fitted. This is not as per the plans - the 1970's design had central servos and miles of pushrods and bellcranks for ailerons, flaps, throttles, and retracts. I'm currently studying how to do the wheel stowage fairings - they are a bit different than the real 111 as the retract mechanism is much simplified to use simple single-action retracts. I will make a plug and vac-form them for ease of finishing and making the doors.

The belly shaping (plane, not me) is progressing and although not exactly right, will look OK I hope...

Now for another window pain!

Pat
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Old Dec 15, 2012, 06:21 AM
What's 3D?
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Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
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beautiful work as usual mate!

Craig
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 05:15 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
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One task I WONT take up commercially is vac-forming! I'd go broke

I made up a planked balsa 'plug' in situ and got it all sealed and primed and looking about perfect, and then vac-formed a slab of 1.5mm styrene sheet and it looked perfect but I left the vacuum on too long (I usually remove it as soon as the plastic has formed around the plug) - then the plug cracked and started deforming taking the still-soft plastic with it

Another hours work and the plug was sort-of redeemed and I tried again with .75mm sheet and made two wheel fairings which had very good impressions of the plug repairs moulded in! Nothing some filler and sanding wont fix.........

An after-thought - I could have filled the hollow plug with plaster or even cement and sand (which I have in the shed....)

With the thinner plastic, I'll add a former and some reinforcing before cutting the doors away for use later.

Maybe tomorrow will be better........

Pat
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 05:29 AM
What's 3D?
trumps's Avatar
Australia, WA, Ellenbrook
Joined Feb 2008
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Looks good mate, a bit of filling and they wil be perfect. was the 1.5mm too thick to pull down well? i was thinking of using it on my Solent cowls when the time comes as i didn't want them too thin and flimsy.

Cheers
Craig
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Old Dec 17, 2012, 05:33 AM
a.k.a Maltone
Pat Lynch's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Goulburn
Joined Jan 2005
6,961 Posts
Craig - the 1.5 pulled fine. Apart from being stronger, it doesn't reproduce the plug faults so easily..... I also had reservations about the extra weight as it is all behind the CG!

Pat
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