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Old Oct 16, 2012, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by seahawk1984 View Post

Anyhow, just wanted to know if anyone has had a problem bringing their lipos with them on the plane.
According to the announcements they make you can carry Lithium batteries on your person or in carry on bags. You cannot put them in checked baggage.

This way if something goes wrong you can do something about it. If the battery catches fire in the cargo hold you have a reasonable chance of severely damaging the plane (depending on where exactly the burning battery is).
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 08:21 PM
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United States, WA, Enumclaw
Joined May 2011
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Originally Posted by ssobol View Post
According to the announcements they make you can carry Lithium batteries on your person or in carry on bags. You cannot put them in checked baggage.

This way if something goes wrong you can do something about it. If the battery catches fire in the cargo hold you have a reasonable chance of severely damaging the plane (depending on where exactly the burning battery is).
Thanks, good to know. I was planning on bringing them as carry on, and in a lipo bag for good measure. Figured if anyone asks at least I can show them that I have them packed in a safe manor. And the last thing I would want is a fire in the cargo hold of our plane 30,000 feet above the Pacific Ocean.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 08:28 PM
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United States, IA, Solon
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I've been following this thread since it was about 3 pages old. In fact, it's responsible for my recent purchase of a Nano CPx. What an amazing heli. It's the first time I've been able to fly a CP. I've bought a Blade SR, and haven't had much luck keeping it in the air. On the bright side I've learned quite a bit about how to repair a CP (at least that one).

The Nano is a lot of fun, it takes a beating and gets right back up. I noticed last night, that the tail rotor was no longer straight up and down. I tweaked it a bit and started flying again. But it remained slanted. After inspecting again I found the tail boom was broken. I have no Idea how long it had been like that and I ended up flying another five batteries before I crashed and broke it entirely. Even slanted it was flying fine.

A couple of questions. I know some of you have upgraded the tail boom to solid, do most hobby stores carry that and what size is needed? I know some here have tried different tails, but I don't recall any opinions. Would a MSRx or MCPx tail be better or should I stick with stock? I'm not to 3D level yet (at least, not on purpose). Thanks for the help.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by MtnBeeler View Post
A couple of questions. I know some of you have upgraded the tail boom to solid, do most hobby stores carry that and what size is needed? I know some here have tried different tails, but I don't recall any opinions. Would a MSRx or MCPx tail be better or should I stick with stock? I'm not to 3D level yet (at least, not on purpose). Thanks for the help.
The solid rod isn't sold as a full tail kit per say. What you will need to do is buy a 2mm thick solid carbon rod, and as far as I know most hobby stores cary it. And for a few dollars you get a rod long enough to make quite a few tails.

I haven't made one yet for the Nano, but I did make one for the mCPX, what I did was cut the rod to same length of the mCPX, then I took one of my broken stock tails and cut the wire to the motor so that I could pull the wire through the stock motor mount bracket. I then took another broken tail (I had a few), and cut the motor mount of the tail off in such a way that I could save the motor this time. I suppose I could have soldered the other motor wires back together and use that one, but the wires are so small I wasn't sure if I had the soldering skills to do it right.

Basically what I wanted was one motor with the wires in tact, and a motor bracket that was in tact. Then after cutting the rod to length, I used some sand paper (might want some coarse sandpaper for this), and laid it flat on the edge of the table, then rubbed the tip of the rod back and forth in order to make a flat spot at the tip. This tip you will slide into the main frame and the flat spot lines up with the flat spot located in the frame in order to keep the rod from spinning in the whole. You'll see what I'm talking about when you take out the old tail. Once you have that set, and in place it's now easy to mount the tail motor bracket so that the motor is upright. I don't remember if I needed to make a flat spot at the motor end or not, but you will know once you take the old motor mount off of the old tail. And I don't remember using any sort of glue, the motor bracket should fit snug on the 2mm rod. Then you can feed the motor wires through the bracket and mount the motor. Here you might want to use some sort of adhesive, like rubber cement or a dab of RTV, something that is easy to remove if you need to replace the motor.

Then just take the wires from the motor and wrap around the solid rod to the main frame and plug it into the board.

I found the solid tail rod that I made for the mCPX, but I haven't tried it in the Nano just yet, it is longer, but with how well the Nano is holding it's tail I didn't' see the need to experiment with a longer tail yet.

P.S. Cutting the CF Rod was a pain, you will want a clean cut, I used a Xacto knife and that took for ever! I know there has to be a better way of doing it, today I was thinking that a dremel with a cutting wheel might work, but I would recommend using gloves and safety glasses, the cutting wheel could create a lot of fine CF slivers. I haven't tried this method yet, so be careful if you do. And if anyone else has a tip on how to cut the CF rod please let me know.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:11 PM
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I've cut carbon fiber rod using a Dremel with a cutting wheel. I wear an air filter mask because I've read that the resulting carbon fiber dust is very harmful to your lungs.
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Originally Posted by seahawk1984 View Post
I was thinking that a dremel with a cutting wheel might work, but I would recommend using gloves and safety glasses, the cutting wheel could create a lot of fine CF slivers. I haven't tried this method yet, so be careful if you do. And if anyone else has a tip on how to cut the CF rod please let me know.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:13 PM
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United States, WA, Enumclaw
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Originally Posted by ifoguy View Post
I've cut carbon fiber rod using a Dremel with a cutting wheel. I wear an air filter mask because I've read that the resulting carbon fiber dust is very harmful to your lungs.

Very good to know, thanks.

That's what I love about RCgroups, it's a plethora of information.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:27 PM
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I also used a Dremel to cut it. Then I used the flat side of the cutoff disk to make the flat spot on either end, and finally cut a very slight groove in the rod at the tail end so that the wires can slip past the motor mount without pinching.

CF splinters are worse than fibre glass.

I don't think the nano tail needs to be extended. It doesn't have the same tail blow out sensitivity the mcpx. A longer tail would only contribute to a tail heavy CG.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by ruzam View Post
I also used a Dremel to cut it. Then I used the flat side of the cutoff disk to make the flat spot on either end, and finally cut a very slight groove in the rod at the tail end so that the wires can slip past the motor mount without pinching.
If I understand correctly you left the motor wires coming through the motor mount? You cut a groove lengthwise along the tail end of the rod so that the motor wires laid along the rod and then out of the motor mount?

That's a great idea, that way I can use existing motor mount without having to cut any of the wires on the original motor.

Great tip, thanks.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by seahawk1984 View Post
If I understand correctly you left the motor wires coming through the motor mount? You cut a groove lengthwise along the tail end of the rod so that the motor wires laid along the rod and then out of the motor mount?
Yep, I didn't have to cut the wires (and hence didn't have to re-solder them). The wires are real thin, it doesn't take much of a groove.

I'll make one suggestion though, make sure the groove is on the side and opposite the tail fin. That way you can run the wires along the rod without having the tail fin clips catching or rubbing them. Once they're past the tail fin you can wrap them along the tail shaft anyway you want. I choose to just pull them nice and straight along the shaft and CA them in place. If you do a neat job, you can't even see the wires unless you look close (from one side you can't see them at all ).
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 10:41 PM
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Tempted to pick this up as a first CP heli....
Is it any good? I've been eyeing the stack of nanos in my LHS, just can't decide whether to pull the trigger or not.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 10:44 PM
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And by the way, on cutting CF-

Best way I've found is a dremel with the reinforced cutoff wheel, and put a wrap of painters/masking tape over the area to be cut. That usually gives a nice clean cut without splintering the end.
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Endlesslag View Post
Tempted to pick this up as a first CP heli....
Is it any good? I've been eyeing the stack of nanos in my LHS, just can't decide whether to pull the trigger or not.
I say PULL THE TRIGGER!

But I would read through this thread if you haven't already, so that way you know what to expect. It's always better to go into a purchase like this well informed. That way you have no unexpected surprises.

But in my opinion this is a great purchase for your first CP heli. My first CP heli was the mCPX, and that was great for me to learn on. And in my opinion the Nano is way better than the mCPX, you wont have the tail blow out problems that was major drawback for the mCPX.

You will be able to learn and crash with the Nano and it wont be such a dent in your pocket book when you do have to replace some parts. Most parts for the Nano are less than $15 to replace. Unlike the Blade 450 series, I've crashed my 450's a couple of times, and it was close to $100 to repair after ONE crash. I've crashed my Nano at least a dozen times if not more, and I've only had to change out the landing gear for a few dollars.

I was lucky enough to get one of my 450 crashes on video!

Sad Day for the Blade 450 (5 min 17 sec)
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ruzam View Post
Yep, I didn't have to cut the wires (and hence didn't have to re-solder them). The wires are real thin, it doesn't take much of a groove.

I'll make one suggestion though, make sure the groove is on the side and opposite the tail fin. That way you can run the wires along the rod without having the tail fin clips catching or rubbing them. Once they're past the tail fin you can wrap them along the tail shaft anyway you want. I choose to just pull them nice and straight along the shaft and CA them in place. If you do a neat job, you can't even see the wires unless you look close (from one side you can't see them at all ).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Endlesslag View Post
And by the way, on cutting CF-

Best way I've found is a dremel with the reinforced cutoff wheel, and put a wrap of painters/masking tape over the area to be cut. That usually gives a nice clean cut without splintering the end.
Sweet! More great tips!
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by seahawk1984 View Post
I say PULL THE TRIGGER!

But I would read through this thread if you haven't already, so that way you know what to expect. It's always better to go into a purchase like this well informed. That way you have no unexpected surprises.

But in my opinion this is a great purchase for your first CP heli. My first CP heli was the mCPX, and that was great for me to learn on. And in my opinion the Nano is way better than the mCPX, you wont have the tail blow out problems that was major drawback for the mCPX.

You will be able to learn and crash with the Nano and it wont be such a dent in your pocket book when you do have to replace some parts. Most parts for the Nano are less than $15 to replace. Unlike the Blade 450 series, I've crashed my 450's a couple of times, and it was close to $100 to repair after ONE crash. I've crashed my Nano at least a dozen times if not more, and I've only had to change out the landing gear for a few dollars.
OK, I'll give it a read through and pull one out of the box to have a look. It just so happens I work at my LHS, maybe I can ask if we can set one aside as a store demo haha

Now that winter's coming up, I'm going to need to get some indoor-capable stuff ready again.



Ouch, that crash hurt. I guess another case of down is up and up is expensive?
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 11:02 PM
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United States, CO, Longmont
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seahawk1984 View Post
I say PULL THE TRIGGER!

But I would read through this thread if you haven't already, so that way you know what to expect. It's always better to go into a purchase like this well informed. That way you have no unexpected surprises.

But in my opinion this is a great purchase for your first CP heli. My first CP heli was the mCPX, and that was great for me to learn on. And in my opinion the Nano is way better than the mCPX, you wont have the tail blow out problems that was major drawback for the mCPX.

You will be able to learn and crash with the Nano and it wont be such a dent in your pocket book when you do have to replace some parts. Most parts for the Nano are less than $15 to replace. Unlike the Blade 450 series, I've crashed my 450's a couple of times, and it was close to $100 to repair after ONE crash. I've crashed my Nano at least a dozen times if not more, and I've only had to change out the landing gear for a few dollars.

I was lucky enough to get one of my 450 crashes on video!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=55S9OalQx3U
I fly my Nano back to back with my mCPX and for me its hard to say what heli I like most..
I have my DX6i setup up very well for my mCPX and I don't have tail blow out issues so mine does great
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