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Old Oct 03, 2012, 10:25 PM
Team WarpSquad
Daryoon's Avatar
San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,097 Posts
On the nano, you can have gear slippage or collar slippage. Neither are attach by screws. The gear has a little rubber glue.

So, how do you know which to push down/up?
On mine, the gear seems to be fine. It's the collar that may move up slightly.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 11:42 PM
Gettin back into it!!
Giovanni Day's Avatar
KY
Joined Apr 2002
489 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fidy$Trainer View Post
Does any one eles's Nano have the violent shakes? It's not the typical tail wag but the whole thing shakes pretty bad at a certain RPM. Just curious if anyone else is experiencing this?
Mine does it when between positive hovering pitch to zero pitch to inverted hovering pitch. If it starts I can bump the pitch for a slight climb and it will stop. When it starts, mine looses some lift and starts to drop requiring me to compensate.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 12:52 AM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
7,349 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
On the nano, you can have gear slippage or collar slippage. Neither are attach by screws. The gear has a little rubber glue.

So, how do you know which to push down/up?
On mine, the gear seems to be fine. It's the collar that may move up slightly.
On mine I push the gear all the way up and glue it. The shaft collar I like to let slip on a hard crash as it softens the blow to the head
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 05:48 AM
Registered User
United States, MA, Rutland
Joined Oct 2011
189 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
On the nano, you can have gear slippage or collar slippage. Neither are attach by screws. The gear has a little rubber glue.

So, how do you know which to push down/up?
On mine, the gear seems to be fine. It's the collar that may move up slightly.
They'll have different and opposite effects on the pitch of the blades. Move the one that gets the blade pitch back to neutral.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 11:43 AM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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Yup they sure do and is why I push the main gear all the way up until it is seated properly (similar to mcpx main gear). Makes for no more guess work on which way to push to get your pitch back to zero
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 12:32 PM
Registered User
Joined Feb 2007
529 Posts
Good point.

On mine when I took it out of the box, I examined it just to see how much play was in main gear, tried to take mental notes. When it started to make weird noises, I noticed I had play and somebody had mentioned the collar slipping, so I used a little force to see if it would move, did not. So I did the same on main gear, it did slip back up.

I think since it has just been the main gear, but I should check. Probably the smart thing is to take a few pictures when you first get it so it is easier to compare to new.

Love this heli, hope to take to park tonight. Anybody got the blue canopy yet? Like to see a pic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
On the nano, you can have gear slippage or collar slippage. Neither are attach by screws. The gear has a little rubber glue.

So, how do you know which to push down/up?
On mine, the gear seems to be fine. It's the collar that may move up slightly.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:02 PM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
7,349 Posts
I have two, my second has never seen a crash and only has a few flights. It has the main gear pushed all the way up....pretty sure the first one had it all the way up before it ever moved as well. After I set 0 pitch the pitch at mid stick it hasnt changed when i reseat the main gear firmly to the end of the notch. I think they cut the notch out of the shaft to a specific distance for ease of setting the main gear at the proper distance
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:05 PM
Just wanna fly!
grovey's Avatar
United States, TX
Joined Apr 2008
1,012 Posts
Brian James from HH (Blade) states:

Quote:
• Collar on main shaft – If the collar on the main shaft has shifted position caused by crash damage, it needs to be secured 18.83mm from the top of the main shaft using an adhesive such as CA.
Taken from
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=455520

He has some important tips there you should read.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:11 PM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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Even though metric is easier to use, I dont no how many end users will be able to find 18.83mm from the top my as well tell them it is at 0.741339" from the top

You guys keep at the measuring while ill just reseat the main gear and use that as a guide

My fav from that thread was to use simple elmers glue instead of other types.... I always wondered what white glue they were using
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:14 PM
Just wanna fly!
grovey's Avatar
United States, TX
Joined Apr 2008
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Yeah, if the main gear stops at a certain place on the shaft, then that is cool. Does the flat on the shaft prohibit the gear from moving too far?

If a fully seated main gear is where it should be, then there should be no problem.

As for the white glue, it is bath and tile caulk. I, as well as others have asked them and gotten that answer.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:22 PM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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I have not measures to 18.83mm so I cant say for certain..but I can check tonight.
But yes the shaft limits the upward travel of the main gear due to the notch carved out on it.

On glue Brian said elmers is recommened
http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.ph...8&postcount=10

But I have caulk at home to try as well.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:24 PM
Just wanna fly!
grovey's Avatar
United States, TX
Joined Apr 2008
1,012 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
I have not measures to 18.83mm so I cant say for certain..but I can check tonight.
But yes the shaft limits the upward travel of the main gear due to the notch carved out on it.

On glue Brian said elmers is recommened
http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.ph...8&postcount=10

But I have caulk at home to try as well.
Yeah I was the one who asked him in that thread what glue it should be. If elmers works then cool. I have not needed to glue anything on the helicopter as of yet.

I had heard of using bath and tile caulk before, then when I had called HH recently for support, I asked the tech, and he mentioned RTV, or bath and tile caulk. Bath and tile caulk is flexible and easily removed, I bet hot glue would do well too. I personally do not want to CA anything on this helicopter.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:25 PM
Newbie but coming on fast
KYChopper's Avatar
United States, KY, La Grange
Joined Jun 2012
143 Posts
[QUOTE=McMoron;22900654]I'm suing HH!

So keep an eye on the tail motor, a bit of lubing and a quick checkup on the bushing is needed!

Where did you apply the lubricant? Can you take a picture showing it for us newbies?
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:41 PM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
7,349 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by grovey View Post
Yeah I was the one who asked him in that thread what glue it should be. If elmers works then cool. I have not needed to glue anything on the helicopter as of yet.

I had heard of using bath and tile caulk before, then when I had called HH recently for support, I asked the tech, and he mentioned RTV, or bath and tile caulk. Bath and tile caulk is flexible and easily removed, I bet hot glue would do well too. I personally do not want to CA anything on this helicopter.
LOL ...didnt notice your name there till you said something.

It makes since as the stuff on the board is quite flexable.

I have used CA but it was for my motor mount conversion
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:44 PM
RC Helis: My Healthy Obsession
The OC, California
Joined Feb 2007
3,159 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Giovanni Day View Post
Mine does it when between positive hovering pitch to zero pitch to inverted hovering pitch. If it starts I can bump the pitch for a slight climb and it will stop. When it starts, mine looses some lift and starts to drop requiring me to compensate.
Mine did the same (especially after my B/L conversion). I found I had to tighten up the feathering shaft nut so the head stopped see-sawing making for a solid flybarless head with no slop. That got rid of the shakes for me. That and perfectly spun balanced main blades.
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