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Old Jan 29, 2013, 09:38 PM
Team WarpSquad
Daryoon's Avatar
San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,067 Posts
You can use the stock battery with the mild. The Glacier 160mah is even better.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 09:48 PM
MCX2..120SR..NCPX..MQX..D X7s
23DM's Avatar
United States, OR, Salem
Joined May 2012
45 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
A 4-cell NiMH pack will read ~5.5V when fully-charged & 4.4V when fully-discharged. Be sure to set the low voltage alarm to 4.4V or higher.

Joel
Copy that...saw 7.8v in the manual on a "screen shot" of the main screen so maybe that was the Lipo mod depiction voltage.
Default LVA was 4.3v so bumped it to 4.7v for a little buffer.
Thx for the reply Joel !
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 10:01 PM
MCX2..120SR..NCPX..MQX..D X7s
23DM's Avatar
United States, OR, Salem
Joined May 2012
45 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz_01 View Post
Mine charges to that also, and doesn't take long to get down to 4.8. I stop it at 4.4 and recharge but I always charge it before I take the big heli's out if it's not full.

The stock NIMH is absolute rubbish. But I can't bring myself to pay $70 for the speky lipo, so I'm replacing it with a turnigy from HK designed for it for $20 (close rounded number, I'm sure it's near that). Also with the lipo, the charge circuit has an auto shut off system, but not with the nimh pack.
No kidding on the quick voltage drop...in a period of about 15 mins. while plugging in values for the set-up of one of my birds, it dropped to 5.1v from a full charge !
The Turnigy from HK is a lipo pack, right ? Will have to check it out...thanks Billy !
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 10:41 PM
Registered User
Joined Aug 2012
545 Posts
How much better is the nano with the mild kit? I am going to take my chances and send mine off for fet repair and upgrade and want affirmation that I made the right choice and I am going to be richly rewarded in performance when all is said and done. Also I tend to break canopy pins, would hate to have to replace the frame after the upgrade, any tips, currently I hot glue which holds for a while but when a couple break I normally just switch frames cause they are cheap. The frame has to be altered for the kit so I am hoping a little epoxy on the pins will make them strong enough not to break. That and my flying is getting marginally better so I slam into the ground less ofter
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 10:56 PM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
Yes, the turnigy from HK is a lipo pack, it is a clone of the stock with the voltage cutoff built in and everything. Just cheaper and possibly lower quality, (but for the price I can't resist). And no worries.

From my understanding of the mild AD kit, @85% throttle it is pretty much like stock but without motor bogging on full pitch. From what I've seen of the wild it can be insane. There are solutions to canopy pin breaks which I have read also ie piano wire glued in with 1mm taken out so it can bend but be put straight again after a crash.
I myself am looking for an alternative as I do tend to break frames occassionally and prefer to just replace them, which is why I'm not really wanting to do such a large frame mod. I am considering testing a turnigy 1015 with an XP3a speedy with blheli firmware. The motor is 10mm though so it will still require modding, but nothing a dremel can't fix in a jiffy. It probably won't be as powerful as the mild kit, but if it out does/lasts the stock motor I will be happy. As long as I can keep the weight down it should be ok, motor = 5.1g, XP3a = 0.7g, doesn't leave me much for wiring but it will be close I think (not 100% but stock = 6.0g???).

EDIT: Just got some micro scales, stock motor weighs in @ 5.04g.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 11:10 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
Joined Jan 2008
1,787 Posts
Its been crap weather every moment I've been free in the last week which is the time I've had my second nano. At least it has prevented me from dropping this one in a pond, but I really want to try her outside over some grass! It has been so wet though I haven't wanted to chance getting the board wet from a puddle or just really wet grass. Anyway, in my inside learning I think I have discovered the single most important thing to keep in mind when trying to fly inside without crashing (this goes for the MSRx too):

When turning left in slow forward flight, give slight back pressure (up elevator) on the collective. If I don't do that, It quickly speeds up in the circle and invariably flies straight at my face at like 20mph before I can complete the turn away from me as it comes round.. Like the MSRx, the nano seems to automatically go foward slightly when inputting right rudder, and backward slightly (not as badly as the MSRx) when turning left. It is one of the things that a lot of people said was "broken" about the MSRx but I learned to compensate for it and now its totally automatic. I initially wasn't doing this when flying the nano, but I just started to and now I can do left turns without almost slicing my face off! I am using a DX4e so don't start telling me about mixes and pitch curves

[edit] I just read what I wrote, after flying again... and realized it doesn't make sense . The nano wants to go backwards when giving left rudder while in a hover, requiring moderate down/forward elevator to counter. Turning right with rudder from a hover starts a slow forward motion that doesn't accelerate on its own requiring no, or just the slightest back pressure (up elev) to stay slow. However, once moving forward even the slightest bit in sustained flight, it seems to accelerate into a turn in either direction, just moreso when turning to the left than when turning to the right. Practice practice practice. I'm getting better at this!
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Last edited by seeingeyegod; Jan 30, 2013 at 12:18 AM.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 12:20 AM
Augernaut
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United States, KS, Overland Park
Joined Jan 2010
1,367 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by theimacman View Post
I don't assume anything. And, even if he was kidding, I don't find that funny at all. It's pretty sick, actually, as that could obviously very easily kill a cat.
That would be the point, they are harder to cook when alive, even though it makes them taste so much better.

.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 01:22 AM
Fly, fix, repeat
oobly's Avatar
Tampere, Finland
Joined Feb 2007
961 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz_01 View Post
Yes, the turnigy from HK is a lipo pack, it is a clone of the stock with the voltage cutoff built in and everything. Just cheaper and possibly lower quality, (but for the price I can't resist). And no worries.

From my understanding of the mild AD kit, @85% throttle it is pretty much like stock but without motor bogging on full pitch. From what I've seen of the wild it can be insane. There are solutions to canopy pin breaks which I have read also ie piano wire glued in with 1mm taken out so it can bend but be put straight again after a crash.
I myself am looking for an alternative as I do tend to break frames occassionally and prefer to just replace them, which is why I'm not really wanting to do such a large frame mod. I am considering testing a turnigy 1015 with an XP3a speedy with blheli firmware. The motor is 10mm though so it will still require modding, but nothing a dremel can't fix in a jiffy. It probably won't be as powerful as the mild kit, but if it out does/lasts the stock motor I will be happy. As long as I can keep the weight down it should be ok, motor = 5.1g, XP3a = 0.7g, doesn't leave me much for wiring but it will be close I think (not 100% but stock = 6.0g???).
A larger diameter motor will be a major PITA to install since the mount areas are quite thin already and hold the frame together.

Seriously, just get a pjacq kit, it only requires some cutting with an exacto, quick and easy. ESC is flashed, motor is tried and tested... easy peasy.

Relevant thread: http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=481518
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 01:23 AM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
Must be like cooking crab and prawns, always better to boil them alive. I'll have to let my local chinese shop know, it's been a little tough lately.

And yes, I know it looks to be a pain with the install, I'm still considering options.
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 02:43 AM
Registered User
Joined Apr 2010
564 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by seeingeyegod View Post
Hey... lets all get together and make an army of autonomous drones to chase feral cats in the woods so they don't kill birds and non pest rodents \

We can mount little water guns on them and shoot them at the cats, they hate that

KIDDING

(sorta )
The revenge of the cats ...
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 05:45 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2012
29 Posts
dx6i settings

so just got round to binding my dx6i properly to my nano (standard non brushless)
with the DX4E this bird flys perfect but for some reason when using the DX6i it seems to be like it has alot of negative elevator as i power up the throttle. ie on start up swash is balanced but when applying throttle swash tilts down backward making the heli flip uncontrollably..... help! what settings do i need to change?
Im flying in mode 1 (dont know if this means i need to change anything ie reverse any settings?)
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 05:47 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2012
29 Posts
ah i see it now, in manual it says pitch should be reversed, will try
I should RTM!
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 06:14 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
erdnuckel2's Avatar
Joined Mar 2009
8,871 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz_01 View Post
Must be like cooking crab and prawns, always better to boil them alive. I'll have to let my local chinese shop know, it's been a little tough lately.

And yes, I know it looks to be a pain with the install, I'm still considering options.
So how about THIS???
http://www.rakonheli.com/rkh/index.p...d=342&Itemid=1

also, there are a few more pictures of it here:
(but I still did not get around to install it ...)
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=105
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 06:31 AM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2012
29 Posts
Ive got the rakon frame and an AD brushless wild setup almost completed. One thing to note is that the motor is not quite low enough in the alloy frame mount so the pinion has to be pushed down about 2 mm (no biggie). Once the depth is set getting a mesh is perfect because you can move the motor back and forth though. Installing the servos is also a breeze. I also like the option of having a 3mm tail boom. Once ive got it setup ill give a report. So far easy to install BL on it.
But im having to much fun with my mild BL modded to the normal frame! It rocks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by erdnuckel2 View Post
So how about THIS???
http://www.rakonheli.com/rkh/index.p...d=342&Itemid=1

also, there are a few more pictures of it here:
(but I still did not get around to install it ...)
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=105
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Old Jan 30, 2013, 06:45 AM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
I'm cheap.

Meanwhile, I'm so very glad I didn't spend much money on flight sim's (got Phoenix cheap), this little beast is a much better simulator...
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Last edited by Billz_01; Jan 30, 2013 at 07:54 AM.
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