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Old Jan 28, 2013, 07:13 PM
Heli's rule!
dacaur's Avatar
Midvale, Utah, USA
Joined Mar 2005
8,698 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz_01 View Post
I also have bound mine without the rudder input on several occasions, as I assume this is just a failsafe option. Try binding without rudder input.
Haha.... I thought "no way" when I read that, and looked in my manual, then it hit me... I have been applying right AILERON when I bind my nano.... so I guess the right rudder really ISNT necessary... maybe it defaults to computer mode if it doesn't see left rudder....

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Originally Posted by Wookster View Post
I was thnking the same thing, so I opened her up and swapped the motor and tightened the feathing shaft. It flies smoother now, but does that same blinking on spool up and tail wags on high and med rpm's set it to low settings and she stops wagging.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz_01 View Post
Perhaps it is a battery issue, or a poor solder. Current overload will cause a tail wag, and poor batteries just the same. This is a very sensitive heli, my drunk mozzie must be a woman as if it's not set just right, I get shudders and tail wag all the time.
I didn't think the battery could cause something like that, but I have been paying attention and I have two batteries that the tail wags when I use them, one worse than the other, and one that it doesn't wag at all... The one that doesn't wag does seem noticeably stronger..... I plan to do some playing with the throttle/pitch curves and see if I can get the wag to go away with the right settings on the weaker packs....

Quote:
Originally Posted by perschek View Post
I think many people are having that issue. Mine does the same takes 2-4 tries to get it bound.
yea, that's pretty standard on all my UM's too.... for me so far, 100% of the time if I turn my transmitter 180 degrees after the first failed bind (connect?), it connects the second time... could be coincidence, or could be turning the TX works.....

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Originally Posted by Greg Head View Post
The tail motor spins with no throttle, it even spins when not bound to tx. It starts spinning the instant the battery touches the battery cable and only stops when I apply throttle. I did plug it in both ways just in case but no change. I don't want a new board, this is already my second one, HH sent me a replacement when my first one freaked out 5 flights in.
I have had two instances when a motor runs full throttle as soon as you plug in the battery. Both times I had plugged in a battery backward.

The first time was a heli 3-in-1 control unit, smoked immediately and ran full throttle as soon as it was plugged in... that will sure surprise you on a 300 size heli (FP, thank god).....

Second time was again, battery plugged in backward... motor started instantly, and it smoked, but I unplugged it pretty fast... so it actualy still sorta worked, but max throttle was only about 50% of what it should have been...
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 07:16 PM
Team WarpSquad
Daryoon's Avatar
San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,329 Posts
I believe the board will bind in the last mode if no rudder input is given. Sometimes, it goes in your favor.

What I think is bad on HH's part is that it's not consistent with the method to switch the mCPX from computer to non-computer mode.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 07:42 PM
Rocket Programmer
jasmine2501's Avatar
United States, AZ, Mesa
Joined Jul 2007
25,388 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaur View Post
Haha.... I thought "no way" when I read that, and looked in my manual, then it hit me... I have been applying right AILERON when I bind my nano.... so I guess the right rudder really ISNT necessary... maybe it defaults to computer mode if it doesn't see left rudder....
As far as I can tell, it binds the way it was previously. When I first got mine, it refused to bind until I did the rudder thing, then it was fine. Since then, I am able to bind it without using the rudder and it goes into the right mode. Mine was the BnF version, I don't know if that matters. I use my DSM2 old DX7 with it.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 08:14 PM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
It's strange to me that everyone is having binding drama's, and that it seems normal. The only time I couldn't bind to one of my HH additions (both plane and heli, I have a few) was when I crashed the Christmas tree and let the factory smoke out of the main board. (I tried to put it back in but it was too quick and I couldn't catch it).


Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaur View Post
Haha.... I thought "no way" when I read that, and looked in my manual, then it hit me... I have been applying right AILERON when I bind my nano.... so I guess the right rudder really ISNT necessary... maybe it defaults to computer mode if it doesn't see left rudder....
^^^ Now that's gold, I found out by accident as well. I didn't read through the instructions completely when I bound this one, and it wasn't until I read it on these forums (months after getting her) that I realised I'd missed it. Mine works any which way you bind it. (that I have tried).

Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaur View Post
I didn't think the battery could cause something like that, but I have been paying attention and I have two batteries that the tail wags when I use them, one worse than the other, and one that it doesn't wag at all... The one that doesn't wag does seem noticeably stronger..... I plan to do some playing with the throttle/pitch curves and see if I can get the wag to go away with the right settings on the weaker packs....
This I found out by being careless and cheap, I tried to use my 4 year old turnigy lipos from my old msr. I didn't even know they were as weak as they were with the msr, but when I put them in my nano, it a chicken. They are the old 30c 160's which were awesome on the old trainer, but TBO TBE (yes toilet bowl effect) and huge tail wag in the nano. I found some old dual sky's which weren't as bad, then some year old stock e-flites which were almost good. Needless to say, they don't seem to matter in my msr or my polecat, so they are being put into those beasts.

Well with the exception of 4 very puffy Turnigy's packs that scared me when I charged them. Note too all, don't use batteries, retire them to the bin (after a complete discharge) and buy some new ones...
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 08:22 PM
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Joined Sep 2011
750 Posts
Yeah I tried an old battery I had from another heli too. One of those coax battle choppers. When I noticed the nano used those I was like cool, I got extra batteries! Nope. As soon as I tried one (second flight) it spazzed out like a cat on LSD. I swapped it out for a new one and it was fine. Never used them again.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 10:26 PM
Heli's rule!
dacaur's Avatar
Midvale, Utah, USA
Joined Mar 2005
8,698 Posts
yea, I found MSR batts cause a chicken dance too, but its not the heli, its the blades....
I put MSR blades on my nano, and if flew at under half throttle with the nano batteries, and gave normal MSR flight time with my old MSR batteries.... (0 degrees pitch and linear throttle curve.)

You don't realise how inefficient symetrical blades are till something like that opens your eyes.... at least, I didnt...
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 10:28 PM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
Yeah but my msr batt's are 30c 160mah packs, they should be plenty powerful new I would reckon...
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 11:57 PM
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Joined Sep 2011
750 Posts
I believe its strictly about the age of the battery, these little batteries are pretty fragile compared to the bigger packs. I noticed that with the mcpx batteries. After a while the older ones would cause power interruptions and weird behavior. the nano must just be sensitive to any degradation. It does demand a lot from them.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 01:02 AM
Registered User
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United States, OR, Portland
Joined Jan 2008
1,796 Posts
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Originally Posted by Kawi View Post
I believe its strictly about the age of the battery, these little batteries are pretty fragile compared to the bigger packs. I noticed that with the mcpx batteries. After a while the older ones would cause power interruptions and weird behavior. the nano must just be sensitive to any degradation. It does demand a lot from them.
I agree, I have now realized only one of my batteries causes the cut out when powering up, and occasional headless chicken dances. It is my oldest most beat up EF150 that has been slightly swollen for awhile. Still works like a champ for the MSRx, but can't handle the nano.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 01:49 AM
Fly, fix, repeat
oobly's Avatar
Tampere, Finland
Joined Feb 2007
961 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaur View Post
Haha.... I thought "no way" when I read that, and looked in my manual, then it hit me... I have been applying right AILERON when I bind my nano.... so I guess the right rudder really ISNT necessary... maybe it defaults to computer mode if it doesn't see left rudder....

I didn't think the battery could cause something like that, but I have been paying attention and I have two batteries that the tail wags when I use them, one worse than the other, and one that it doesn't wag at all... The one that doesn't wag does seem noticeably stronger..... I plan to do some playing with the throttle/pitch curves and see if I can get the wag to go away with the right settings on the weaker packs....

yea, that's pretty standard on all my UM's too.... for me so far, 100% of the time if I turn my transmitter 180 degrees after the first failed bind (connect?), it connects the second time... could be coincidence, or could be turning the TX works.....
If you bind WITHOUT right rudder the first time, the heli thinks you're using an RTF tx and the tail curves and gyro response are different, so the tail is more likely to wag. Weak batteries and main motor can make the wagging worse.

Sometimes the signal from the tx when you plug in the heli is TOO STRONG. If you aim the antenna straight at the heli (weakest signal area) or get some distance between the tx and heli it will usually link up just fine.

I recommend you rebind the heli with right rudder input and aim your tx antenna at the heli every time you connect. Should help with the wag and linking. If it doesn't then your main motor could be on it's way out.

About the batteries, this heli is sensitive to poor / weak batteries. To keep your LiPos healthy, charge them just before you fly, never store them with a full charge and don't drain them too much. The low voltage cutoff on the heli is too low, so it's better to time your flights instead of waiting for loss of power. Fortunately these 1s LiPos are pretty cheap and weaker ones can still be used for other helis like the mSR if you have one.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 01:53 AM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
I am pondering the idea of an MCPX BL tail motor as the main power plant for my nano. I don't require huge amounts of power, but I am sick of replacing main motors.

It is an 8mm can, (from what I can find) 8100k inrunner, and should fit without frame modifications. It probably won't require a huge speed controller.

What are your thoughts? I'm researching it now, haven't found it done anywhere yet!!...

EDIT: Question? Would it require a 2s power system to match the original, or will 1s be sufficient???
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 02:51 AM
Fly, fix, repeat
oobly's Avatar
Tampere, Finland
Joined Feb 2007
961 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz_01 View Post
I am pondering the idea of an MCPX BL tail motor as the main power plant for my nano. I don't require huge amounts of power, but I am sick of replacing main motors.

It is an 8mm can, (from what I can find) 8100k inrunner, and should fit without frame modifications. It probably won't require a huge speed controller.

What are your thoughts? I'm researching it now, haven't found it done anywhere yet!!...

EDIT: Question? Would it require a 2s power system to match the original, or will 1s be sufficient???
It'll need 2s. The kv on 2s is similar to the higher performance HP03, so it may work okay on the stock pinion. This means it'll fit without frame mods, as you say.

You'd have to flash the ESC with BLHeli to get it to work with the signal from the mainboard and you need an ESC with a BEC or a separate voltage regulator to run the rest of the heli from. The tiny ESC's usually don't have one. A Dimension Engineering switching regulator may work fine (if 3.3v is above the mainboard LVC): http://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/de-sw033

It'll be heavier than stock, by the weight of the ESC, regulator, wires and extra battery if the motor is about the same.

IMHO it's better to just get an Astroid Mild kit or pjacq's BL kit since they weigh less than the stock motor and are easy enough to install, but it would be a fun experiment to try the 2s mCPx BL motor.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 03:02 AM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
Hmmmm, lots to think about.

I think LVC is ridiculously low, maybe 3v or something close, so the reg might work. Perhaps another main motor to suit it would be better. I'm really after a painless mod, few quick wires (to the ESC) and a slip in motor. Definitely want a 1s BL system, otherwise all my new batteries will go to waste Might have to buy a second nano so I can keep one stock and mod the other with a 2s powerhouse. sounds fun.

I've been looking at the Pjacq kit, as was advised to me earlier in the thread here. It is probably the most painless of them all, but I can't help but want just a drop in motor replacement, and a quick solder or even a plug in ESC. (I know that would be heavier, but it could be worth looking at)
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 07:27 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,737 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz_01 View Post
Hmmmm, lots to think about.

I think LVC is ridiculously low, maybe 3v or something close, so the reg might work. Perhaps another main motor to suit it would be better. I'm really after a painless mod, few quick wires (to the ESC) and a slip in motor. Definitely want a 1s BL system, otherwise all my new batteries will go to waste Might have to buy a second nano so I can keep one stock and mod the other with a 2s powerhouse. sounds fun.

I've been looking at the Pjacq kit, as was advised to me earlier in the thread here. It is probably the most painless of them all, but I can't help but want just a drop in motor replacement, and a quick solder or even a plug in ESC. (I know that would be heavier, but it could be worth looking at)
Why not simply go with Dylan's mild kit?

Joel
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 08:42 AM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
I probably will end up using either Dylan's or the pjacq kit, I'm just trying to find out all the options I guess.

What I really want to do, is keep this heli fairly tame, while reducing the bogging, but increasing the poor motor life. This is my rainy/windy day heli, it spends 99% of its flight time in my toy room, and occasionally ventures outdoors to inspire confidence before I crack out the big guns (or when I get really drunk and take it to friends houses for showing off ) So I need to be able to fly it in tight spaces comfortably (or keep it docile enough for when my reflexes are a bit slow)
Because I fly her a lot while intoxicated, she cops a lot of abuse, I really don't want to have to wait weeks for busted parts from overseas. Keeping it on the cheaper side is a must, as is parts and availability. I don't want to have to buy 2 full kits for that just incase moment.

I have read that there are some motors (inrunners) that are close to fitting (dremel fit), like the turnigy 1015 and 1220, (just from reading around). I don't know what the power difference is, but as long as I don't lose power I would be happier than the constant motor changeouts (I'm seeing maybe 50 flights a piece). And with the price, I would be happy to keep a spare in my toolbox, much like I do with the stock ones.
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