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Old Jan 27, 2013, 04:19 PM
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Joined Feb 2007
527 Posts
Where do people break their landing gear? That is about the only part I haven't broke , completely anyway to where it is not usable. I broke the bottom rail off behind back support first day (snagged on carpet) and I've broken one side battery holder support but the landing gear itself is fairly flexible, still using original from late Sept.

I have broke -
swashplate all arms and separated 3 times, last one in flight, now replaced
on third main motor
on 2nd tail motor
solid cf tail boom, destroyed 2 stock ones
one set of lynx main blades
canopy destroyed- using V911
all 4 canopy pins - using paperclips
blade grip
feathering shaft bent back 20 times
rx board lost connection on rx chip, heat gun reflowed solder to fix

But still on stock L.G. You guys must land hard when not inverted. I tend to land hard inverted which tends to break even more I guess.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 04:25 PM
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United States, CA
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
The tail-shake is often caused by weak batteries, as well. I had the exact same issue with my well-used & somewhat abused Hyp & TP 160s. Haven't had any LVC or tail-shake issues since I picked up some fresh batts.

Joel
I flew my 450X today and on my second battery had a tail rotor strike the grass. It didn't appear to be a hard strike. On the next flight the tail wagged a bit. I thought it might be related to the rotor strike. I went home and checked the battery voltage and found one of the three cells significantly lower than the other two. I got a fresh battery and went back to fly it. No wag at all throughout the flight. It appears the battery caused the wag.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 04:46 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_skaggs View Post
I flew my 450X today and on my second battery had a tail rotor strike the grass. It didn't appear to be a hard strike. On the next flight the tail wagged a bit. I thought it might be related to the rotor strike. I went home and checked the battery voltage and found one of the three cells significantly lower than the other two. I got a fresh battery and went back to fly it. No wag at all throughout the flight. It appears the battery caused the wag.
Interesting. I suppose the resulting ripple voltage was either too much for the tail gyro to handle, or it created enough ripple in tail-servo torque to cause overshoot problems.

Joel
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 05:46 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
Joined Jan 2008
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My swash repair seems to have held for now anyway. Blob of medium CA and held it with the gap closed for about 30 sec then hit it with kicker. Of course my attempted landing gear repair failed but it still works, just a little fiddly

Yes its basically from super hard upright landings when hitting TH at altitude or forgetting and slamming it down. Glad it gives way rather than something more important.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 06:19 PM
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United States, CA
Joined Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Interesting. I suppose the resulting ripple voltage was either too much for the tail gyro to handle, or it created enough ripple in tail-servo torque to cause overshoot problems.

Joel
Glad that took care of it. I was about to start replacing tail parts. I wish I knew as much about these larger heli's as you and others here. I'm a year into this hobby and have been learning very slowly. I have been flying micro heli's mainly which are easy to repair. I have crashed my 450X twice. The first time I had the LHS repair it. The second time I did it myself with good results.

Jim
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 06:20 PM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
On your vac forming, if you can make a plug out of resin/polymer or something like that, it will last longer and wont loose definition.

On the swash I found that hot melt glue worked very well.
Thankyou, I am planning on making a resin final plug, but making the first one from plaster so I can easily modify it and test it. I will then make a mold of it with silicon and plaster, (silicon first to capture all the details, ie. cut lines etc. then plaster around that to hold the shape) then use that mold to make my final plug from resin.

I will be trying the hot glue today, but will be purchasing a new one just in case anyway. Wish me luck...

Quote:
Originally Posted by seeingeyegod View Post
My swash repair seems to have held for now anyway. Blob of medium CA and held it with the gap closed for about 30 sec then hit it with kicker. Of course my attempted landing gear repair failed but it still works, just a little fiddly.
That is exactly what I did, however my medium CA and kicker is foam safe, so might not be as strong on plastic.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 08:34 PM
Team Lynx Heli, Team SpinBlade
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United States, MO, KC
Joined Jun 2011
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congratz, Billz_01, that post was the 4,100th post!

Anyway, I flew one of these again today and I still love it just as much as I dad 2 weeks ago.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 08:35 PM
Augernaut
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United States, KS, Overland Park
Joined Jan 2010
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Bahh, need a little troubleshooting help. She's got a tail wag. On the second tail motor right now. still almost new. Had a bad vibration, turned out being a loose feathering shaft. It's a very rhythmic wag. maybe 3-4 times a second. Replaced the main motor thinking it would help, it didn't It's also shutting down when I first start it. get a little speed on the head and it settles down, almost like it has to warm up. Just trying to track this down.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 08:47 PM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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CA and baking soda. That'll make the swashplate arms stronger than stock.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 10:14 PM
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Joined Dec 2012
29 Posts
help with dx6i binding

Does anyone have any tips for getting my dx6i to bind my nano. I followed the procedure listed in the manual.
plug in nano
turn on dx6i holding trainer/bind button
bind comes up on dx6i
release bind button and hold right rudder
release but blue led never goes solid.

the dx6i controls will then move the swash but not the motors
binds and flys perfect with the old dx4e though?
curious.. any tips?
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 10:27 PM
Heli's rule!
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Midvale, Utah, USA
Joined Mar 2005
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I would suspect throttle trim is the problem, is it all the way down?
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 10:31 PM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
Be sure you're DX6i is in heli mode, I've made that mistake before. (slightly different reaction but still didn't work properly). Also try it and don't let go of the right rudder until the heli light goes solid.

Just missed the 4100, Joel beat me to it. Damn

I will have to give that baking soda a go, it would make like a resin bog much like that with fiberglassing.

An overly tight and loose feathering shaft can create a tail wag. That part where it turns off-on is what I have noticed as a sign of a weak or dying motor. I know you say you've replaced them both, but that is just my experience. a broken tail boom (splintered and twisting) will also create a wag, and an old deformed tail rotor also. I use my KBDD mcpx tail rotors, as they are thicker and seem to stay straighter, longer.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 10:59 PM
GEEBEE Can't WAIT!
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USA, OR, Seaside
Joined Dec 2010
1,422 Posts
hey everyone thanks for the advice using med/thick can on the featgering shaft. the idea of elmers glue just isn't working. I assume you use activator afterwards?
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 11:02 PM
ChuckTseeker Super Fan
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United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Jan 2012
585 Posts
I do not... use kicker that is...
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Last edited by Aphro; Jan 27, 2013 at 11:31 PM.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 11:06 PM
Registered User
Joined Dec 2012
29 Posts
dx6i bind problem

yep is in heli mode
not trim problem
tryed holding right rudder for quite a time (20 SEC) and light still flashing.. but i will try for holding longer.
anything else i need to check?
dx4e binds fine and flys fine
dx6i just gets swash movement and led still flashing after bind?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz_01 View Post
Be sure you're DX6i is in heli mode, I've made that mistake before. (slightly different reaction but still didn't work properly). Also try it and don't let go of the right rudder until the heli light goes solid.

Just missed the 4100, Joel beat me to it. Damn

I will have to give that baking soda a go, it would make like a resin bog much like that with fiberglassing.

An overly tight and loose feathering shaft can create a tail wag. That part where it turns off-on is what I have noticed as a sign of a weak or dying motor. I know you say you've replaced them both, but that is just my experience. a broken tail boom (splintered and twisting) will also create a wag, and an old deformed tail rotor also. I use my KBDD mcpx tail rotors, as they are thicker and seem to stay straighter, longer.
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