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Old Jan 26, 2013, 08:42 PM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
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Originally Posted by perschek View Post
Garggghhhh. Please someone give me a technique using this darn elmers glue to get the feathering spindle to stay. Keeps loosening. Any idea what the stock black glue is?
As previously stated by "Aphro" CA works well, but I've found even my medium stuff was a bit too thin for it. (thank god it was foam safe so a little bit weaker on the metal)

I personally like using my liquid electrical tape, same tooling with a toothpick on the back of the nut and on the thread of the shaft (after you have set the correct tension). Easy to remove when needed, and ends up just like the factory glue (except in my case it is red).
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 08:46 PM
Registered User
United States, CA
Joined Jan 2012
1,454 Posts
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Originally Posted by perschek View Post
Garggghhhh. Please someone give me a technique using this darn elmers glue to get the feathering spindle to stay. Keeps loosening. Any idea what the stock black glue is?
I use a little blue Loctite on mine. Holds well and is easy to remove nut later.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 09:39 PM
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Joined Aug 2009
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Originally Posted by stevo75 View Post
This is really weird. I think two of the TP 160s were old and tired like folks suggested above. So I'm going to retire them. These were the batteries that were causing the heli to go in and out of power (like it was hitting the LVC as jasmine suggested).

The other TP 160s don't cause the power issues, but they cause the heli to shake and tail wag. The stock batteries don't do this. Not sure why batteries would cause shakes or tail wag. They fit into the holder well so it's not like they're loose and rattling around.

I guess I'll just retire those as well or keep them for the msr...
To date, every time I've had LVC continuously cycle OFF-ON-OFF-ON has been due to a "flakey" Motor (either Main or Tail). It, and which Motor may be causing the problem can be confirmed by unplugging one of the Motors and seeing if the constant OFF/ON cycling is eliminated. If not, then try the other Motor. If, and once you determine which Motor is causing the ON/OFF cycling, you can take it apart and will probably find a loose metal piece that was causing the internal short.

Constant ON/OFF cycling is most likely due to a "hard" (i.e. constant) electrical short. An electrical short will cause excessive current, for which the LiPo won't be able to provide the excessive current, which will result in the LiPo Voltage to drop below LVC causing LVC cut-off, which will stop the current surge, then the LiPo Voltage will go back up above LVC, which will once again allow a current surge and the cycle repeats.
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Old Jan 26, 2013, 11:14 PM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
Unbelievable as to how easy this little nano is to see and fly. Cranked her out in some wind, drunk on Australia day, and performed some aileron and elevator flips loops and rolls for the first time without crashing

Time to make a new canopy, currently making a vac box, and about to plaster mold the stock one as a template. Going to paint her bright, fluorescent neon yellow.

Question: What glue do you guys use for holding things like the swash plate arms on? I tried using medium CA, and it only lasted 2 minor crashes. I've got some 5 minute epoxy next on my list. Hot glue shortly after if that fails, but I'm thinking the hot glue is going to be difficult to use due to the tiny little parts
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 05:24 AM
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Joined Feb 2007
529 Posts
I used CA gel. I think loctite brand. The gel type is easier to control and makes a blob which stays in place better. Even after gluing all 3 arms on, my swashplate eventually started to separate (top from bottom), then it did it in flight which led to crash of course. I think the alum. part may be the way to go.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 07:51 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,530 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevo75 View Post
This is really weird. I think two of the TP 160s were old and tired like folks suggested above. So I'm going to retire them. These were the batteries that were causing the heli to go in and out of power (like it was hitting the LVC as jasmine suggested).

The other TP 160s don't cause the power issues, but they cause the heli to shake and tail wag. The stock batteries don't do this. Not sure why batteries would cause shakes or tail wag. They fit into the holder well so it's not like they're loose and rattling around.

I guess I'll just retire those as well or keep them for the msr...
The tail-shake is often caused by weak batteries, as well. I had the exact same issue with my well-used & somewhat abused Hyp & TP 160s. Haven't had any LVC or tail-shake issues since I picked up some fresh batts.

Joel
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 09:27 AM
when down=up, up=expensive
whichwaysup's Avatar
United States, VA, Roanoke
Joined Apr 2012
2,647 Posts
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
The tail-shake is often caused by weak batteries, as well. I had the exact same issue with my well-used & somewhat abused Hyp & TP 160s. Haven't had any LVC or tail-shake issues since I picked up some fresh batts.

Joel
+1

Batteries that are past prime have caused everyone of the symptoms descibed for me. Cold wx+ nano power requirements+ non peak batteries equals strange nano behavior.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 10:17 AM
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United States, CA
Joined Jan 2012
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When my heli's develop a problem that isn't readily apparent, the first thing I do is swap batteries. It has proven to be the correct diagnosis many times.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 10:28 AM
2 seconds from crashing
indoorheli's Avatar
United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
7,349 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz_01 View Post
Unbelievable as to how easy this little nano is to see and fly. Cranked her out in some wind, drunk on Australia day, and performed some aileron and elevator flips loops and rolls for the first time without crashing

Time to make a new canopy, currently making a vac box, and about to plaster mold the stock one as a template. Going to paint her bright, fluorescent neon yellow.

Question: What glue do you guys use for holding things like the swash plate arms on? I tried using medium CA, and it only lasted 2 minor crashes. I've got some 5 minute epoxy next on my list. Hot glue shortly after if that fails, but I'm thinking the hot glue is going to be difficult to use due to the tiny little parts
On your vac forming, if you can make a plug out of resin/polymer or something like that, it will last longer and wont loose definition.

On the swash I found that hot melt glue worked very well.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 10:30 AM
Registered User
United States, CO, Superior
Joined Jun 2011
171 Posts
Good to know. Thanks for all the info! Who would have thought weak batteries would cause the tail shakes?

So far I'm impressed with this little heli!!!
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 10:56 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,530 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by whichwaysup View Post
+1

Batteries that are past prime have caused everyone of the symptoms descibed for me. Cold wx+ nano power requirements+ non peak batteries equals strange nano behavior.
And as we northerners know, the Hyperions are unquestionably the best performing UM cells in the cold.

Joel
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 11:54 AM
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United States, RI, Westerly
Joined May 2012
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I too am pretty amazed with it, my only complaint is the way-beyond-merely-being-fragile landing gear...you look at it sideways and it breaks. Tried epoxy, the stuff I have has no tensile strength, so the repair breaks, tried "sistering" the offending strut with another piece of plastic glued behind it...no go. Guy at another forum turned me on to Aluminum/CF gear that looks promising on fleabay I may get here at some point. The stock L.G. SUCKS!
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 12:50 PM
Go small or go home
ruzam's Avatar
Canada, SK, Regina
Joined Mar 2008
1,408 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
And as we northerners know, the Hyperions are unquestionably the best performing UM cells in the cold.
Northerners? From where I sit you're in the banana belt.

Look guys, UM battery performance in cold isn't something worth considering. If it's cold enough to worry about your batteries, pull out the balsa gassers or stay indoors. Even foam/plastic planes don't rely on the critical strength of plastic parts like a heli.

The plastic gets brittle when it gets cold. Where you might have survived a crash with bend and a bounce before, now you're snapping parts off left and right, including shattered blades that are otherwise indestructable (ask me how I know). These micro heli parts are designed to the limits of their strength "at room temperature".

If it's cold enough to worry about how your batteries are going to hold up, you should stop and think about how many plastic parts you can afford to replace before you take her out. A crappy UM cell that can't take the cold just might be the thing that saves you from more expensive repairs.
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 02:00 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,530 Posts
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Originally Posted by ruzam View Post
Northerners? From where I sit you're in the banana belt.
LOL! Yeah, you guys get it worse than we do! The temps aren't that much different (we often see -40 in my hometown & it gets down to -50 on occasion), but your winters are a lot longer, and your days are a lot shorter. I think you guys spend more days in a row below -18C, as well.

BTW - I used to fly my larger glow & gas-powered planes in the winter, but now I prefer to fly my UMs in cold wx. I can sneak out on the deck & get in a quick flight or two without the hassle of putting a larger ship together in frigid temps at the field. I know what you mean about plastics & such in cold temps, though. Shattered the canopy on my 130X during a minor mishap the other week, thanks to the cold.

Joel
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Old Jan 27, 2013, 02:51 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
Joined Jan 2008
1,787 Posts
Update on my new nano, I've had it only a few days.

Canopy nose cracked, landing gear split in two places, no biggie.

Then last night I noticed it started to need more trim to stop drifting left and I examined the swash plate. Noticed it is actually cracked. The aileron arm has about a half a mm space opened up between the center and the arm, which is causing the drift to the left. I can probably just keep trimming it out but I;m gonna disassemble and see if i can close the gap with some CA.

My tail wag SEEMs to be lessening with time. Seems to be less in idle up, and seems to be the worst when the battery is fully charged strangely enough. Was getting the weird cutting out behavior inside last night too which might be a bad motor. I think my tail motor is probably sub standard, but it is too late to exchange the heli now that I've roughed it up some.
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