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Old Jan 06, 2013, 10:08 PM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
The linear servos definitely chatter, and this is normal. I don't believe it to be a gyro function atleast for the most of the chatter, as all my micro foamies do it also, and they have no gyro. It is stated in all the books of models with these servos that it is normal for them to make noise and chatter. (No gyro and no weight on the servos on my foamies). When you move the heli the servos will get louder, this is the gyro trying to correct external inputs.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 10:13 PM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
On the canopy pins; a dremel, a very fine drill bit, some fine sewing pins (with tiny flat heads) and some patience. It adds a little weight, but they will never break again. From the inside of the frame, after drilling a tiny hole into both the mount pin, and the frame, insert pin and add a tiny drop of CA. Do opposite side also to help balance heli. This was my fix on one of my mcpx's, and has never broken since.
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Old Jan 06, 2013, 11:11 PM
Augernaut
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United States, KS, Overland Park
Joined Jan 2010
1,462 Posts
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Originally Posted by indoorheli View Post
Have you ever tried to make a linear servo move vertically like being able to move the arm on a standard servo? You really cant because of the gear type so I would think it is not the weight of the blades making the sound and is indeed the gyro functioning at least a minute amount.

I think on my 130x the gyros will fully shut down if throttle isnt applied but not the mcpx or nanos. I know when i am carrying my 130s around i don't hear much at all as far as larger correctional servo movement

The buzz I believe is because they have such a small dead band so it is always searching for exact center (gyro or not)..though not 100% on that
yes, but if you look closely when you try and move the servo that the screw has a little play to it, just enough to move the metal contact along the sensor board and make the servo correct. thats the chatter. Some servos are worse than others, mainly because the keeper pin is not snug. if you have a particularly noisy new servo try pushing on that black keeper on the shaft and see if it snugs it up.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 12:11 AM
2 seconds from crashing
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United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Sep 2007
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Originally Posted by Wookster View Post
yes, but if you look closely when you try and move the servo that the screw has a little play to it, just enough to move the metal contact along the sensor board and make the servo correct. thats the chatter. Some servos are worse than others, mainly because the keeper pin is not snug. if you have a particularly noisy new servo try pushing on that black keeper on the shaft and see if it snugs it up.
What about stationary chatter..i would still think it is a small deadband or lack there of.

But what you said makes sense as the weight of blades or anything else seems to have no effect on my servos, even pushing on them doesnt make them louder. When i try and move the screw it doesnt make mine louder. The only thing that seems to make them louder is changing the angle of the heli
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Last edited by indoorheli; Jan 07, 2013 at 12:45 AM.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 01:49 AM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
You can remove the play from that screw also, I have found that they come loose over time and need to be tightened. Both the mcpx and nano cpx run the same servos, and they both suffer from the keeper nut loosening. Don't over tighten, just take the majority of the play out, then a "teeny tiny little bit" of CA or white glue (liquid electrical tape in my case) on the remaining thread.

This loose nut has been the cause of my tail wag and shakes on both the nano and mcpx, if anyone still suffers a tail wag, check the play on all three servos by gently rocking the blade by hand, pitching back and forward, lining up the connecting rod on the swash to the corresponding servo.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 04:14 AM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2013
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So i'm waiting for my nano to arrive. I took a look at the manual and there states that the charger comes with batteries, but apparently without a connection with the house electric supply. Can somebody explain me if I should buy something extra to be able to charge the nano's batteries with my house electric supply?
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 07:18 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Joined Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by bad_mofo View Post
So i'm waiting for my nano to arrive. I took a look at the manual and there states that the charger comes with batteries, but apparently without a connection with the house electric supply. Can somebody explain me if I should buy something extra to be able to charge the nano's batteries with my house electric supply?
The charger the nano comes with not only is a battery operated charger, it also will only charge one battery at a time. If you are intending to do this for longer than a couple of days (flying helis) it is a VERY good idea to get something else, no matter what (check ImaxB6AC or ThunderAC6, these are decent and rather affordable)
If you have more than one battery you would "normally" also need either a parallel charge harness or one of the serieal charge adapters from Xtreme (for example - http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/in...oducts_id=7219 )

these are two or three among VERY many things you could do ...
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 07:24 AM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
The e-flite celectra 4 port works fine for all those 1S batteries. Mine came with my msr, maybe a few years ago now, and still works flawlessly. That plus a wall adaptor.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 07:33 AM
It flies!!! ... so who cares ?
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Joined Mar 2009
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Originally Posted by Billz_01 View Post
The e-flite celectra 4 port works fine for all those 1S batteries. Mine came with my msr, maybe a few years ago now, and still works flawlessly. That plus a wall adaptor.
True, but if your celectra did not come with an mSR to you, getting it later is almost as expensive as getting a B6AC and the necessary adapters - and there you will also be able to charge an additional plethora of other batteries, so long term I would consider this the more efficient solution.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 08:24 AM
Billy
Australia, NSW, Newcastle
Joined Jun 2012
314 Posts
No contest there, just another option is all. I have the IMAX b6 also, had it a few years too, it's a great, cheap alternative for charging batteries. The adaptor boards can be found online/eBay for minimal coin.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 09:32 AM
Safety : practice & promote!
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Joined Dec 2011
4,833 Posts
I love my thunderpower ac6. I have both serial and parallel charging cables for it. I'll quickly charge up 12 batteries in parallel before going to a fun fly or out to the field. Then when I get back I'll use the serial charge cable to put 6 of them back into storage voltage at a time.

This charger handles all of the batteries for every type of helicopter that I have. I love it! Best investment for the hobby after my purchase of a computerized radio.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:22 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Originally Posted by erdnuckel2 View Post
True, but if your celectra did not come with an mSR to you, getting it later is almost as expensive as getting a B6AC and the necessary adapters - and there you will also be able to charge an additional plethora of other batteries, so long term I would consider this the more efficient solution.
+1!

If one is serious about this hobby, the very best investments are a decent hobby-grade, programmable transmitter and a good hobby-grade, multi-chemistry charger that displays charge/discharge info. My standard advice to newcomers who are serious about the hobby is to buy all the transmitter you can afford, and buy a decent charger. Think of them as investments that will pay big dividends for many years to come:

  • An RC aircraft can only fly as well as the transmitter allows, and there is a huge difference in performance between entry-level & decent hobby-grade transmitters. The difference is very noticeable even when flying beginner aircraft such as the mCX or UM Champ. This is not a place to skimp. Your transmitter is the only thing that is used with everything you fly, and it determines how well your aircraft can fly. The important specs are jitter, latency, repeatability, and resolution. Cheap, entry-level transmitters always have very poor numbers. Especially jitter, latency, and repeatability. For decent performance, a DX6i or better is required. However, if you are serious about the hobby, you will quickly find the DX6i to be quite limiting. If you plan to fly a variety of aircraft, and if you plan to fly fixed-wing planes with flaps & other features, you'll want at least a DX7s.
  • A decent hobby-grade charger will pay for itself quickly in battery savings alone, because you can easily and accurately determine the flight-time to the 80% discharge point & set your flight-timer so that you always land at or before your packs are 80% discharged. Two & four-channel chargers are now common. If your budget allows, a two-channel is very convenient. You can charge two packs at once & they can be completely different types.

Joel
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Last edited by turboparker; Jan 07, 2013 at 11:28 AM.
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 11:56 AM
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Joined Oct 2005
108 Posts
What parts of this heli need to be lubricated? What's the best stuff to use?
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 12:32 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,955 Posts
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Originally Posted by DanF View Post
What parts of this heli need to be lubricated? What's the best stuff to use?
Shaft & grip bearings, gears, swash, ball-link ends, motor bushings. It doesn't take much. Too much lube just attracts dirt. I use TriFlow & apply it with the tip of a pin or toothpick. There are many other lubes that also work well. Just be sure that whatever you use is plastic-safe.

Joel
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Old Jan 07, 2013, 01:33 PM
Augernaut
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United States, KS, Overland Park
Joined Jan 2010
1,462 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Billz_01 View Post
You can remove the play from that screw also, I have found that they come loose over time and need to be tightened. Both the mcpx and nano cpx run the same servos, and they both suffer from the keeper nut loosening. Don't over tighten, just take the majority of the play out, then a "teeny tiny little bit" of CA or white glue (liquid electrical tape in my case) on the remaining thread.

This loose nut has been the cause of my tail wag and shakes on both the nano and mcpx, if anyone still suffers a tail wag, check the play on all three servos by gently rocking the blade by hand, pitching back and forward, lining up the connecting rod on the swash to the corresponding servo.
I find that a loose nut is the cause of most of my incidents. Usually the one located in front of the Tx.
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