Originally Posted by iTz Nicholas72

Replied before I edited my post...

Going to give this a shot tomorrow provided we have some CCW MCX2 main motor left. Now if only there was something I could use as a swap for the stock motor since its still on backorder :/

If I remember right, a guy on a german forum said they were using mQX motors (I think those were CCW again, but I am not entirely sure anymore) However, this was not 100% plug and play - but again ... maybe something worthwhile taking a closer look at ...

Now I'm itching to get outside and practice flips, been too cold, but will be in NC next week and have a place to fly.

New Step 1 Learning flips start over grass

I'm far from expert, as your write up brings back my same recent memories.

What I've found that kind of helps me (some of my technique may be wrong). The extreme height as you noted may not be helpful, easy to lose orientation. I'd say maybe 20-30 feet.

I found using full right stick in direction of flip (fwd, back, left or right), but then to pause a short time maybe 1/2 sec. before going to negative collective, then to just go smoothly and part way on collective, then if going all the way around, gently go to positive collective while continuing to hold right stick full in direction of flip. Sounds dumb, but to get more consistency I started to talk through the procedure in a way to develop a cadence. Seems to work pretty good for me. Now how these guys do it in 7-8 foot ceilings I have no idea. To go halfway, just recenter right stick around inverted level while maintaining some negative collective for elevation.

They say right roll is easiest, but I can't say I've found much difference in direction once the technique is down. I think I plan to start inverted hover tail-in, which right roll sets up for when tail-in.

Originally Posted by whichwaysup

Hahahahaha!! I snuck out for a quick battery between things at work - DETERMINED to do something with my Nano that I couldn't do with my MSRx (never mind the fact that I still crash the stupid thing into the wall every chance I get). So, after a few laps around the office with *one* successful landing on the 1 foot diameter stool top, I figured it was time . . .

SO, out we went, the Nano and I. I thought back to the advice someone gave me before about getting inverted - something like:

Step 1: Run up throttle (Check!)
Step 2: Achieve lift off (Check!)
Step 3: DO not run into anything (Che . . .Wait, woah, woah, Get away from that tree, bush, GROUND, okay, I got it, Check!)
Step 4: Get REALLY HIGH in the air (I discovered later why I was never actually given this advice) Check . . NO, HIGHER! CHECK CHECK!!!!
Step 5: Maintain control of Heli even though it looks like a gnat right now (ummmmmm, still up there . . .I think . . . er, check?)
Step 6: Okay, all those really hard stick movements you aren't supposed to do inside but do anyway when you overreact to the smallest breath of air from the heater? Get ready buddy, here's your chance!!! (Check check check check check check!!!)
Step 7: Without removing your eyes from the gnat that is continuing to grow smaller, find the two magical switches that turn this thing (and hopefully the pilot) into the master acrobat it was designed to be. (Check, oh wait, that's the trainer switch, uncheck. Okay, got one. Now where the hell is the other one. Oh, here it is, right here, right next to this other nifty - OH CRAP - Where's the Gnat????? Oh, there it is, MUCH closer now - uh oh, go up go up go up, whew . . . . . CHECK)
Step 8: Deep steady breaths. It's only a couple hundred bucks to replace it, it's only money, it grows on trees . . . (check)
Step 9: While pulling back on the elevator (wait, not yet, wait till I finish!), simultaneously slam the pitch down as if you were cutting the throttle. Of course, you aren't cutting the throttle, which means whatever happens next isn't going to stop happening until you find that nifty little throttle hold button or until it runs into something. Okay - Here we go!!

I gotta get more parts - this if FUN!

When I was at lhs last I debated between ccw mcx and regular nano setup, since I also had the solid boom mod. Unless I'm remembering wrong, I think it was $10, so I figured for $14 just get the nano setup with the hollow boom (that lasted less than a day), but you also get another tail rotor and holder too.

I tried a V911 tail motor, didn't have enough hold unless boom was 6-6.5" long. looked funny but then motor did seem to hold, even with flips.

Plus tail motors seem to last pretty good on these. Even my 2nd main motor is lasting better.

Originally Posted by erdnuckel2

If I remember right, a guy on a german forum said they were using mQX motors (I think those were CCW again, but I am not entirely sure anymore) However, this was not 100% plug and play - but again ... maybe something worthwhile taking a closer look at ...

I guess I kinda understand the battery life side of it. My perspective would be different though, as I have 8 stock batts, 3 hyperions, and a bunch of old turnigy's that I throw through mine. I rotate maybe 10 through it each time I fly, and since I'm no 3d expert, (only just starting to try rolls and flips) I get an easy 4-4.5 from stocks, and 5 out of the hyperions.

Originally Posted by Billz_01

I guess I kinda understand the battery life side of it. My perspective would be different though, as I have 8 stock batts, 3 hyperions, and a bunch of old turnigy's that I throw through mine. I rotate maybe 10 through it each time I fly, and since I'm no 3d expert, (only just starting to try rolls and flips) I get an easy 4-4.5 from stocks, and 5 out of the hyperions.

Do you fly to LVC?

Maybe someone else has posted this but I must have missed it... Anyone with tail wags or vibration try this out... install your battery and then take some scotch tape and secure the battery to the battery holder so it cannot move... it makes my Nano's tail the most solid I have ever been able to get it... go figure

One caveat, it seems to work perfect on my Airtime skids, but not as perfect on the stock skids... I guess they are inherently so flimsy it is almost impossible to get them to not oscillate under load... anyways, I hope someone benefits from my trial and error

Nah, no cutoff, it destroys batteries. I set my timer to 4 mins, and usually land around 4.5.

Originally Posted by Billz_01

Nah, no cutoff, it destroys batteries. I set my timer to 4 mins, and usually land around 4.5.

I totally agree that it does... I was just curious... if I only hover the Nano on Normal with the stock batteries I come up with 3.8 v after 4 min flight...

I only fly in IU, but with some FFF and attempted rolls, I've gotten a 6 min 15 sec flight out of a stock pack. I kinda wish I didn't push it so far, as it is a damaged battery now, with no real umph left, but now I know.
I don't spend a lot of time with the motor stalling though, no pitch pumps or overly hard pitch changes, as my rolls are quite large. I suspect that when I get better that will change. I fly to 4 mins on the nano and both my mcpx's though so lots of home toys.

Originally Posted by jpconard

Now I'm itching to get outside and practice flips, been too cold, but will be in NC next week and have a place to fly.

New Step 1 Learning flips start over grass

I'm far from expert, as your write up brings back my same recent memories.

What I've found that kind of helps me (some of my technique may be wrong). The extreme height as you noted may not be helpful, easy to lose orientation. I'd say maybe 20-30 feet.

I found using full right stick in direction of flip (fwd, back, left or right), but then to pause a short time maybe 1/2 sec. before going to negative collective, then to just go smoothly and part way on collective, then if going all the way around, gently go to positive collective while continuing to hold right stick full in direction of flip. Sounds dumb, but to get more consistency I started to talk through the procedure in a way to develop a cadence. Seems to work pretty good for me. Now how these guys do it in 7-8 foot ceilings I have no idea. To go halfway, just recenter right stick around inverted level while maintaining some negative collective for elevation.

They say right roll is easiest, but I can't say I've found much difference in direction once the technique is down. I think I plan to start inverted hover tail-in, which right roll sets up for when tail-in.

Nice - great suggestions! As soon as I can get some replacement parts, I'll give that a shot!

Originally Posted by Aphro

Maybe someone else has posted this but I must have missed it... Anyone with tail wags or vibration try this out... install your battery and then take some scotch tape and secure the battery to the battery holder so it cannot move... it makes my Nano's tail the most solid I have ever been able to get it... go figure

One caveat, it seems to work perfect on my Airtime skids, but not as perfect on the stock skids... I guess they are inherently so flimsy it is almost impossible to get them to not oscillate under load... anyways, I hope someone benefits from my trial and error

When the cg is off, this thing does not fly well, and the tail wags. When the battery slides back, cg is off. I learn to check after every crash.

Originally Posted by dacaur

Yea I can see that. higher headspeed is always good. That's why I wonder why you would want a flat pitch curve and linear throttle curve with CP blades because then you would get the downside of FP, which is poor control when you lower the throttle to shed altitude. I guess though since it needs a higher headspeed to start, it wouldn't be as much a problem. As for battery life, see below.....

Yeah it isnt so bad with a higher headspeed and still gives some people much needed mellower vertical control. With symetrical blades at a fixed pitch you really get a good flying FP without all the flight issues of a msrx. Course most that fly as an FP are not doing it for battery life

Just got my Goblin canopy! Thinkin I'll paint it like the green 700 version

Originally Posted by JLink125

Just got my Goblin canopy! Thinkin I'll paint it like the green 700 version

do you have a link for that by any chance please??

Have flown mcx and mcx2 fine. got the nano cpx today. Have to work, but couldn't resist. Set it up according to http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/ ebook on tame settings. Still a handful, but was able to hover it somewhat.

1. Notice that it tilts slightly to the right when hovering (almost as if it where a plane, one wing would be heavier than the other--not much, maybe a few degrees).

2. Servo twitching like crazy. Is that normal for the nano? Right out of the box upon binding with DX8 it did it, and still does. Fine while flying thought.

3. After landing and when blades are spooling down, almost all the way stopped, the bird does a little shake as if something is out of balance, but then is fine and stops. It doesn't shake at all while flying, just that second while spooling down.

4. I got a few Turnigy nano tech 150's but they seem to be about 1mm too thick. :-(

5. I still need to go through the pitch check/setup per http://www.rchelicopterfun.com/ but couldn't resist flying out of the box. Radio is all setup, but I still need to go through checking pitch (attempt to anyway) ;-)

6. I've heard using the bullet blades are more stable? Should I put them on and just use the bullet blades while learning?

7. I've also heard the blade msrx blades are as good/better to use on this nano?