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Old Nov 30, 2012, 02:46 PM
Registered User
Paderborn DE
Joined Oct 2004
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Damm TOYS!!

OK, so lets be straight, this is a toy, NOT a real RC helicopter, period!!
I own and fly real RC helicopters, like my Trex 500 and FBL 450. I spent years flying Vario, Kalt, Hirobo and Schlüter so I know what I am talking about.

I also own a toy MCPX, a toy Nano CPX and a toy MQX, none of which are worthy of my flying them

Why then, have my 'real' helys got a thick layer of dust over them and my 'toys' are getting the C*** flown out of them???

Had an hour this afternoon to grab a couple of quick flights and had to choose what to take, guess what went into the car?? Driving up to the field I got to thinking about what I had chosen and why and I guess that I now have to face facts and accept that I have more fun throwing my toys around than I do flying the bigger stuff.

Am I abnormal???

PS:- I am going to double (tripple) post this as it applies to a couple of models sorry to the Admin.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 02:53 PM
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United States, MA, Northampton
Joined Jan 2009
131 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jlk69 View Post
Great tip, I have never heard of that before. I too have had problems with the arms on the swash breaking/cracking. On one swash two arms have been repaired with CA and splintered carbon fibers to reinforce. The other swash has one arm repaired the same way. Although expensive, I think an aluminum swash
is in my future. Hopefully the weight will be the same or only slightly heavier.
Yeah - that is a pretty cool trick! I tested it out just as Daryoon described a million pages ago, on some junk parts, and even on some busted rc car CF parts. I would trust this fix much better for helis, but it also appears to be a great and quick field band-aid at the race track. I've tried the thread method before, but I must have cotton thread - I see smoke after I add the CA glue - doh!

Quote:
Originally Posted by elgecko View Post
I posted this a little while back...
As for binding, mine occasionally has issues.
It seems to work by having the radio on the ground 3 to 4' away from the heli. Plug the battery in and if I stand up and move away from both, it seems to bind with no problems. Sometimes if I'm on my knee waiting for it to bind, it doesn't.... strange
May have to unplug and try again. Most it took me when giving me problems was 3 times.
I've had some haunting issues with my two mSRXs. They're both programmed individually and saved on my DX6i, and now and then I need to re-bind them. I also noticed that if I'm holding the Tx low to the ground/ floor, it would fail to bind. I've also experienced being too close as well.

The best way I find to bind is to stand up, hold the controller at waist level, have a clear line of sight to the heli, and be at least two arms length away. Works every time, but my two mSRXs once in a while would give my Tx a brain fart . . . . They fly the same, so I may just bind them both on the same profile.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ccpdx View Post
Yep, my lack of upward movement was due to lack of pitch. I found the cause in the manual - my main gear had slipped about a millimeter, so I wasn't getting enough positive pitch.

Meanwhile, kudos to Horizon's support! They're sending me a new servo. One of my side servos is/was sticking. I was able to demonstrate it to myself and my wife many times, although at the moment the symptom seems to have disappeared.

Charles
Does your wife fly? It would be wicked cool to see some women learn this hobby. One time someone's wife with her kids saw me driving my rc cars, and told me that she thought that it was super cool. I joked to her that this is how I pick up chicks! lol
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 02:58 PM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,346 Posts
It has to do with the AR pin not on the same pivot plane. Where the pivot ball is. So, because it's on the left side...Elevator commands introduces a unwanted AIL mixing. There's a couple of YouTube videos that was first posted when the problem was discovered that demonstrated the issue.

If you look at the larger helis and smaller ones by Walkera. They all got the pivot plane done properly. Not sure why Blade continue to reuse their design.

Here's another thread that has some illustration on the issue.
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=406982

I'll have to look for the YouTube videos.

The relocation of the pin to the rear on the MicroHeli and RakonHeli swashplate fixes the unwanted AIL mixing.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 02:59 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulB View Post
Why then, have my 'real' helys got a thick layer of dust over them and my 'toys' are getting the C*** flown out of them???
Maybe it is because when things go wrong with large helis it is not only expensive, but it could also kill somebody. I almost did that with a 450. The small CP's are great for getting airtime without major consequences. Some day after a lot more experience, I am going to buy another bigger helicopter.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:08 PM
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Paderborn DE
Joined Oct 2004
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Originally Posted by CatBird View Post
I realize it's not exactly what you asked, but blue Loctite is the best choice for this and all metal-to-metal stuff on electric helis. Just a tiny dab on the threads, get the tension right, and leave it an hour or so before you fly it. Don't use it on screws into plastic.
Hi Guy, not wishing to contradict, Locktite Blue is good, but, there is a better product for small (under 3 mm) screws. Locktite 222 (pink, NOT red) was especially developed for ‘our size’ of fasteners, it is low strength so you do not need heat or force to remove a screw and I have NEVER had a screw come loose (been using it for over 20 years flying i/c Helys). Check out the Locktite website or call there helpline. Blue works fine and certainly can be used but pink is better when it comes to undoing stuff without shearing the head off or rounding it off.
Hope that this helps someone.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:09 PM
Time To Fly The Best!
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Hills of Eastern Ohio
Joined Nov 2008
13,860 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragnse7en View Post

Does your wife fly? It would be wicked cool to see some women learn this hobby. One time someone's wife with her kids saw me driving my rc cars, and told me that she thought that it was super cool. I joked to her that this is how I pick up chicks! lol
Amy Botos....


Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
It has to do with the AR pin not on the same pivot plane. Where the pivot ball is. So, because it's on the left side...Elevator commands introduces a unwanted AIL mixing. There's a couple of YouTube videos that was first posted when the problem was discovered that demonstrated the issue.

If you look at the larger helis and smaller ones by Walkera. They all got the pivot plane done properly. Not sure why Blade continue to reuse their design.

Here's another thread that has some illustration on the issue.
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=406982

I'll have to look for the YouTube videos.

The relocation of the pin to the rear on the MicroHeli and RakonHeli swashplate fixes the unwanted AIL mixing.
Question: How does it workout with a MH Rear Pin Swash and bracket on a Stock Nano Frame? Or it doesn't?
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:16 PM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
6,346 Posts
@heritageflyer
It clamps on the rear.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:37 PM
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United States, OR, Hillsboro
Joined Jun 2010
483 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dragnse7en View Post
Does your wife fly? It would be wicked cool to see some women learn this hobby. One time someone's wife with her kids saw me driving my rc cars, and told me that she thought that it was super cool. I joked to her that this is how I pick up chicks! lol
LOL! Yeah right, I wish. I've been a keen observer of how women just don't do this hobby. It's not that women aren't welcome.... That's not why it's "male-dominated"... It's that they just don't. Even when they do, there's a very strong probability that it was a male significant other who was in the hobby first. I think there's got to be a much higher percentage of female full scale pilots.

Charles
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:48 PM
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United States, OR, Hillsboro
Joined Jun 2010
483 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulB View Post
OK, so lets be straight, this is a toy, NOT a real RC helicopter, period!!
I own and fly real RC helicopters, like my Trex 500 and FBL 450. I spent years flying Vario, Kalt, Hirobo and Schlüter so I know what I am talking about.

I also own a toy MCPX, a toy Nano CPX and a toy MQX, none of which are worthy of my flying them

Why then, have my 'real' helys got a thick layer of dust over them and my 'toys' are getting the C*** flown out of them???

Had an hour this afternoon to grab a couple of quick flights and had to choose what to take, guess what went into the car?? Driving up to the field I got to thinking about what I had chosen and why and I guess that I now have to face facts and accept that I have more fun throwing my toys around than I do flying the bigger stuff.

Am I abnormal???

PS:- I am going to double (tripple) post this as it applies to a couple of models sorry to the Admin.
Even full size vehicles are toys if you're having fun. "This is not a toy" is code for "take the hazards seriously." "This is a toy" is code for "this thing isn't real or lacks some dangerous functionality like shooting real bullets." Replaceable parts, being marketed to adults, being in hobbyshops/websites (versus toy stores), a certain level of quality, functionality and modifyability, make something hobby-grade versus toy-grade.

Charles
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 03:58 PM
Tossing planes into the snow
Canada, BC, Smithers
Joined Nov 2011
2,992 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ccpdx View Post
LOL! Yeah right, I wish. I've been a keen observer of how women just don't do this hobby. It's not that women aren't welcome.... That's not why it's "male-dominated"... It's that they just don't. Even when they do, there's a very strong probability that it was a male significant other who was in the hobby first. I think there's got to be a much higher percentage of female full scale pilots.

Charles
That is a very interesting observation, and probably correct. There is something about controlling toys that doesn't appeal to women. When it comes to controlling something useful, such as a car or a real airplane, then they are interested.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 04:43 PM
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United States, AR, Lockesburg
Joined Feb 2012
1,050 Posts
@elgecko

THANKS

You gave me the tip I needed. Should make it a new rule for binding somewhere. I setup a new model with ALL the setting as per manual (no changes) and it binded first time and right after right rudder. I never had the Nano do anything with the right rudder on bind. Anyone having problems should try it.

Might help your bind at battery change.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 06:39 PM
Time To Fly The Best!
heritageflyer's Avatar
Hills of Eastern Ohio
Joined Nov 2008
13,860 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon View Post
@heritageflyer
It clamps on the rear.
That's cool, I will go this way when I get my Mild BL on. Thanks! Good pic. I had a MH Red Almn Swash on my mCPX.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 07:25 PM
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Louisville, Colorado
Joined Oct 2007
323 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulB View Post
Hi Guy, not wishing to contradict, Locktite Blue is good, but, there is a better product for small (under 3 mm) screws. Locktite 222 (pink, NOT red) was especially developed for ‘our size’ of fasteners, it is low strength so you do not need heat or force to remove a screw and I have NEVER had a screw come loose (been using it for over 20 years flying i/c Helys). Check out the Locktite website or call there helpline. Blue works fine and certainly can be used but pink is better when it comes to undoing stuff without shearing the head off or rounding it off.
Hope that this helps someone.
Maybe I'll get a tube of 222 as well. I've never felt like I was using more than "finger torque" to remove a screw with blue Loctite, and I'd chalked it up to the screw being small and thus having far less surface area to be gripped by the glue. But always willing to try some new stuff.

As for application in tight spots, I use a paper clip with one end bent out. I put a drop of Loctite in a little plastic cap, dip the paper clip in, and then touch it to the threads. It's pretty viscous stuff, so it clings to the wire well and transfers nicely to the threads. It also doesn't harden up when exposed to air, so you have plenty of open working time. A paper clip seems to grab just the right amount for one tiny little application on our tiny little screws.
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Old Nov 30, 2012, 09:28 PM
Team WarpSquad
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San Diego, CA
Joined Dec 2010
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For the person wondering if you can fit a mSR X body on the Nano. Seems like somebody had the same idea. Not sure what they used to cover up the holes. A decal?

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Old Nov 30, 2012, 10:01 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
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Joined Dec 2011
4,771 Posts
Nice find there, Daryoon. That's a neat trio and I like the decal on the case behind them.


Update on my nanos with the 1mm play between the blade grips. When I used to have the feathering shaft much tighter, when I spooled down, I would get some fierce "wet dog shake" as the blade slowed down to a halt. Now that there's more play in the grips, that's totally gone. No tail wag for either of my Nanos. Flew 4 more packs tonight getting the hang of doing circuits and piros. Only crashed once when I got too bold near a wall...
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