Originally Posted by jasmine2501

Shouldn't the flybarless system compensate for that? As long as it's not too far off, it should be fine.

I think you are generally correct, BUT there are always costs to doing something less than perfectly. For instance, with traditional servos (not these linears), you expect the servo arms to be 90 degrees at midstick, so if one is not at 90 degrees, then the travel per unit input will be different than expected, and while the gyros will eventually make everything alright, it's still nonlinear... same with the travel limits -- while you typically won't drive travel all the way to the physical servo limits, the farther from dead middle you are, the less travel you have for a perfectly symmetric pos/neg pitch range.

Practical impact on the Nano? Probably nil.

So I'm not saying to obsess over setup, but I think 'best practices' are still pretty good to follow even with compensating systems in place.

I say, get it as close as possible. If the swashplate is really off...like one side is much lower than the other...don't think the electronics will just handle that offset properly.

Here's the molded alignment marks that Blade started to put into the head and blade grips. I think I saw it first on the 130X.

Bigger R/C heli have done this for a while now.

Originally Posted by tracknoob

I think you are generally correct, BUT there are always costs to doing something less than perfectly. For instance, with traditional servos (not these linears), you expect the servo arms to be 90 degrees at midstick, so if one is not at 90 degrees, then the travel per unit input will be different than expected, and while the gyros will eventually make everything alright, it's still nonlinear... same with the travel limits -- while you typically won't drive travel all the way to the physical servo limits, the farther from dead middle you are, the less travel you have for a perfectly symmetric pos/neg pitch range.

Practical impact on the Nano? Probably nil.

So I'm not saying to obsess over setup, but I think 'best practices' are still pretty good to follow even with compensating systems in place.

Efilte's Blade line of micro - sized and smaller helis do not use servos. They use a Jack-Screw actuator, and for the sake of argument it's only classified as a servo b/c it makes a mechanical movement. It is in no way a linear servo, otherwise they would have beefier shuttles on the jack screws, have its own circuit board, and would also be an enclosed, and not an open system.

I always set up all my helis proper before even attempting to add a battery to it and turn it on.

J. Salt has some great tips - I think it's called rchelicopterfun.com, I'd suggest that you Google it

Originally Posted by dragnse7en

Efilte's Blade line of micro - sized and smaller helis do not use servos.

[sigh].....

A servomechanism, sometimes shortened to servo, is an automatic device that uses error-sensing negative feedback to correct the performance of a mechanism.

The term correctly applies only to systems where the feedback or error-correction signals help control mechanical position, speed or other parameters. For example, an automotive power window control is not a servomechanism, as there is no automatic feedback that controls position—the operator does this by observation. By contrast the car's cruise control uses closed loop feedback, which classifies it as a servomechanism.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Servomechanism

J. Salt has some great tips - I think it's called rchelicopterfun.com, I'd suggest that you Google it

Ahem:

Teaching grandmother to suck eggs

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teachin..._of_the_phrase

Originally Posted by dragnse7en

Efilte's Blade line of micro - sized and smaller helis do not use servos. They use a Jack-Screw actuator, and for the sake of argument it's only classified as a servo b/c it makes a mechanical movement. It is in no way a linear servo, otherwise they would have beefier shuttles on the jack screws, have its own circuit board, and would also be an enclosed, and not an open system.

I really think you need to review your definition of 'servo'.

BTW, not meaning to be too harsh on you dragnse7en -- welcome aboard!

FWIW, Jasmine is also is a bit of a [relative] old timer around the heli threads, so I think the question was a bit rhetorical, as were the answers -- yes, the ASX can soak up the slop for the most part, but nothing beats doing it right mechanically, if you are hoping for best overall operation. And yes, John Salt is a very good resource for beginning the long road to heli nerd-vana!

Cheers!

Sick of having to fabricate a new tail boom nightly...and having to take care in filing the key at each end...I modded the Nano CP X frame to accept 2mm square rods instead.

There's more meat to it and should help reduce the frequency of fractures due to the thin wall of the keyed part of the Nano round tail boom.



More info about the mod here:
http://www.hacksmods.com/2012/11/bla...tail-boom-mod/

Originally Posted by indoorheli

For the nano...what types?

did you already burn through some servos on it?

(Side Servo) SPMSH2025L 2.0 g Linear Long, 15mm Lead
(Rear Servo) SPMSH2026L 2.1 g Linear Long, 38mm Lead

That's what I ordered, one each. Yes, my left side servo screw/slider is locked up solid. Debonder did not help, so it is not just stray CA in there. Froze up, stuck in the middle.

Been making good progress with flipping the nano keeping it in a very tight area.
Was flipping it 2-3' above the ground repeatedly but around the 6th or 7th flip drove the tail boom into the ground.
You guessed it, split my first tail boom. Going to try a little CA. I flew the remaining battery and 2 more without any degrade in performance, thankfully.

Originally Posted by elgecko

Been making good progress with flipping the nano keeping it in a very tight area.
Was flipping it 2-3' above the ground repeatedly but around the 6th or 7th flip drove the tail boom into the ground.
You guessed it, split my first tail boom. Going to try a little CA. I flew the remaining battery and 2 more without any degrade in performance, thankfully.

CA and sewing thread will make it even stronger than before

Originally Posted by TonyTypeS

CA and sewing thread will make it even stronger than before

I know what CA is, but what is sewing thread??

Originally Posted by heritageflyer

I know what CA is, but what is sewing thread??

What! You haven't sewed any clothes before? Haha jk floss also works good but some have a waxy coating and CA doesn't really stick to too well

Oh haha I think I quoted the wrong post darn smart phone

Originally Posted by heritageflyer

Yes, my left side servo screw/slider is locked up solid.

You could replace just the servo mechanics and be good as new for a fraction of the cost.

Of course, if you're sure the servo is toast, I'll take it off your hands. I'm always looking for micro bearings .

Originally Posted by ruzam

You could replace just the servo mechanics and be good as new for a fraction of the cost.

Of course, if you're sure the servo is toast, I'll take it off your hands. I'm always looking for micro bearings .

I would have taken the mechanics if they had them in stock where I order from. Got 10% off, so that is why I ordered two.

When I see them come back in stock I'll get a couple mechanics only. I don't think the Board is fried so will keep it for a spare.

Originally Posted by Daryoon

Sick of having to fabricate a new tail boom nightly...and having to take care in filing the key at each end...I modded the Nano CP X frame to accept 2mm square rods instead.

There's more meat to it and should help reduce the frequency of fractures due to the thin wall of the keyed part of the Nano round tail boom.



More info about the mod here:
http://www.hacksmods.com/2012/11/bla...tail-boom-mod/

That's awesome!

Are you honing your mad 3D skillz? Is that how you're breaking those tail booms? Can't wait to see some vids of you doing piro flips and hurricanes at your field.