Dumb question. The bullet blades are installed with the "Blade" logo facing upward, right (just like the non-bullet blades)? That is, the bullets lead the blade? I've installed them this way but have to wait an hour or so for the kids to go to bed before I can try it out.

Originally Posted by RoboHeli

Dumb question. The bullet blades are installed with the "Blade" logo facing upward, right (just like the non-bullet blades)? That is, the bullets lead the blade? I've installed them this way but have to wait an hour or so for the kids to go to bed before I can try it out.

Yes. The weights are on the LE of the blade.

Joel

Thanks. Two more flights on it tonight. Just practiced tail-in hovering and box patterns.

* Switched to the bullet blades

* Tightened up the blades just a smidge so that they weren't so darned floppy

* Removed all expo from my DX6i

* Lowered D/R down to 70% on all ELEV/AILE/RUDD

* Changed canopy and tail to blue (Ah....much better LOL)


It flew very, very well. The TBE I was seeing definitely seems to have gone away now that I'm not trying to chase the heli around with a mushy center stick.

Time to do two more flights before bedtime.

One immediate advantage of tightening up the blades is that the heli doesn't shudder like crazy when I land and zero the throttle anymore.

Interesting. Today I had my best flights yet with my Nano. Which is good for my morale, as I totaled out my UMX Beast today Today I was able to "liftoff" like 5 times in a row and actualy maintain a hover for 20 or 30 seconds, which for me is HUGE,lol. My problem is when I make corrections it can send this thing really zooming. But I am getting it, and what a great feeling. Heli's are giving me much more joy than my planes.

Originally Posted by Passero

Cool... I just bought phoenix 4 because it has some Blade heli's and I couldn't find a proper one in RealFlight.

I just did a few test flights with the mcpx in phoenix and it behaves way more like the nano than any chopper I've tried in RealFlight.

Finally a sim where I can do some proper testing. In RF I could easily do 3D and keep the chopper stable. I can clearly see the difference with the mcpx in phoenix. Love it! It will save me a lot of horrible crashes (or so I hope )

I was reading back and found I had missed this post.

I used RealFlight to get started flying in the 90s and kept up through G3 or so before I started using Phoenix.

It's really nice to be flying models that are relevant, and not paying all the time to keep up with updates and versions.

What I originally purchased was Phoenix Sim. But through the years, it has become Phoenix4 by way of their updates.(As it should) I bet it will be the same for you later by the time we get to say, Phoenix8 or something.

RealFlight made me feel like a sucker but I was greatful for having it then. I need Phoenix4 far less than I just enjoy the heck out of it these days and I sometimes feel like hitting up a donate button would not be out of order.

But then I think of the Sub-Nano-Micro-X-or-Some-Such they will come out with next year, and how they will gut me with that...and lol

Watch for your main gear slipping down, which it is supposed to do on harder crashes - minimizes damage. If it slips down it will cause vibrations. Just hold head at top - center and push main gear up.

Originally Posted by RoboHeli

One immediate advantage of tightening up the blades is that the heli doesn't shudder like crazy when I land and zero the throttle anymore.

Is there any balancing needed on the Nano? I was running some Glacier batteries that fit lose in the slot and the battery slipped all the way back and was just hanging on. This had to change CG and the heli flew better with the added weight on the tail. I’m going to try some tape on the tail for weight. What is the correct method to check CG?

Usually correct CG would be at the center of the swash. On a bigger heli you could hold the bird by the main blades sideways with the motor moved (pinion moved away so main gear/shaft move freely) to check CG.

Though some will argue CG isn't that big of a deal with a 3-axis gyro and personally I would never add dead weight to a UM/Nano.

Here's a quick 3 min video on it, though I have to admit I did not watch the video all the way through, just a quick youtube search.

Finding the CG on a 450 Helicopter (3 min 36 sec)

Yup, the second method shown in the video is how I balance heli. Even on these micro. Works on both flybarred and flybarless helis.

Because with the main shaft and bearing, you essentially have a built in balancer.

I agree with queadlunnrau. Don't add dead weight. So, instead of adding weight, simply mark how far the battery should be slide in to keep that center of gravity close to centered.

When the tail and nose is in balance, you can rotate the heli to point at any position. i.e. 3o'clock, 5o'clock, 7o'clock, and it will stay stuck there.

Though the video said you can check balance with the gear in place. I personally feel it's important to disengage the gears. It's simple to do this if you push up on the motor a little bit till the two gear are not meshed anymore.

And oh, a tip: Have some of those liquid electrical tape on hand. It's like $5 or so at Home Depot...and it's great for nicks in insulations and using as "glue" to keep the motor in place. Easy to peel off when unneeded. It's basically the same stuff that Blade Heli uses. Good to have around and the 4oz container seems to last forever.

Use a toothpick to apply. Just don't get high off the smell. Also good for the feathering shaft nut. You did check that on your new NCPX didn't you? Otherwise, you may find the blades flying off one day. Also good for the main gear.

Liquid electric insulation! Nice idea!
I was just about to ask what you guys were using to hold but not glue parts in place.
I started noticing for some reason the tail boom started rotating from 90*. Even when I snug it in place powering up it slowly rolled right.
I'll a little liq tape on the tip and see how long it holds ups.
Nice tips on the feathering bar too. I pulled it, rolled it on the flat of my vice with a square and put it back together. Smooth as silk!

Even when you wack these puppies around its so effortless to get them true again.

One more time:
Hey!!! anyone order the mega power batteries from heli direct? They were on sale for $.99 each so I picked up 5 of them. They aren't taking a charge in the e-flight charger. It is the only charger I have for these batteries so I don't know if it is the charger or the batteries. I tried 3 different sets of AA batteries in the charger too thinking it was those but it wasn't. Anyone get those batteries??

Do other batteries charge sucessfully in that charger? Then I would assume it is something with the battery. Sorry I cant be of more help. As you say, it is your only charger, so hard to test against something else.

Originally Posted by Daryoon

Use a toothpick to apply. Just don't get high off the smell. Also good for the feathering shaft nut. You did check that on your new NCPX didn't you? Otherwise, you may find the blades flying off one day. Also good for the main gear.

Hoo boy. Not yet. I've heard a fair amount about it but don't know much about it yet. I gather from the discussion here that is what those little extra tools that come with the Nano are for. I haven't gone looking for Youtube videos on how to do this just yet but I probably should, huh?

Originally Posted by gs550t1981

One more time:
Hey!!! anyone order the mega power batteries from heli direct? They were on sale for $.99 each so I picked up 5 of them. They aren't taking a charge in the e-flight charger. It is the only charger I have for these batteries so I don't know if it is the charger or the batteries. I tried 3 different sets of AA batteries in the charger too thinking it was those but it wasn't. Anyone get those batteries??

Sorry, but I don't use those batteries or the factory charger. As Stuball mentioned - if the charger charges the Eflite batteries, then the problem is with the Mega Power cells.

BTW - those batteries are cheap for a reason. They're only 15c, and the factory cells are 25c. They are extremely low-performance cells, which means they will perform very poorly in this application. Modern UM LiPos are 25c or higher.

Also - if you're serious about the RC hobby, do yourself a huge favor & pick up a decent hobby-grade multi-chemistry charger that displays charge info. Also pick up some adapter cables. You will be very glad that you did.

Joel