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Old Aug 24, 2012, 01:26 PM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Aug 2012
55 Posts
Build Log
Lanyu, Cessna 182 Skylane, TW-747-III assembly

This kit is well made and thought out except for the instruction booklet, and that's why I wrote down my experience. The kit is complete and all you need are (8) double "AA" batteries for the 2.4ghz. transmitter . Mine had a red freq. ribbon, denoting apparently that it is a 2.4 ghz. transmitter.

Follow this link to see my album pictures of assembly.

http://s366.photobucket.com/albums/o...II%20assembly/

After the UPS man left, I opened the box and found and read the instructions which were very sparse. They are a translation by a Chinease translator to English but for the most part you can understand what they mean. The rest you'll have to figure out for yourself, so I'll try to help. Be easy on tightening the screws so you don't overtighten.

First off out of the box are the wing panels and a carbon fiber tube which is the spar to reinforce the wings at the center. I ground a bevel on the ends of the carbon spar so that it wouldn't gouge the foam on the inside of the wing panels when sliding and twisting it in, then I marked the center of the spar so I would be assured that it was centered in the wing. After inserting it into one panel I held the spar tube with a pair of needle nose pliars so that it wouldn't slide in any further as I slid and twisted on the other panel. Don't glue the two wing panels together or the carbon spar, and that's it for now.

Next I unpacked the rest of the parts and identified all of them. The screws and such are not labled so you have to be careful in choosing the proper fastener for the job.

After the wing panels you can assemble the main landing gear with the supplied screwdriver which is easy and straight forward, there is a small wood screw on each wheel pant to keep it from rotating. Find the right ones, their small and short. Then install the front steerable landing gear with the supplied allen wrench. Don't be concerned if it's turned to one side for now, We'll get that later.

Then you can move on to the very small but powerful electric motor, I had to bend the aluminum mount bracket just a bit in a vice so that it would line up naturally with the mounting holes in the firewall. They are offset so that it can only be mounted one way and the mount appears to be offset on the thrust centerline on purpose like many models.
When hooking up the wires of the prop motor (Black,Yellow,Red) the black wire goes to the black but the red does not go to red, at least not on my model, it goes to blue and the red from the motor goes to yellow in the plane. I found that out the hard way and had to reverse them.

Now you can put on the motor cowl, the mounting holes in the cowl are pre-punched but only install the side screws and then check the alignment of the motor shaft in the cowling opening for fit vertically. You may have to repunch the top mounting hole with a pin so that it fits correctly, I did. It will be offset to the right a bit but don't try to correct it.

Now you can install the prop. There's nothing to tell you how to do it, it just says "fix the propeller with nut". You'll find a black plastic (tree) in the small parts bag with eight plastic bushing washers on it. Find the two that fit the motor shaft and remove them from the tree. Now place them in the center of the propeller. Make sure that the thick brass nut goes on first, all the way to the end of the threads then next goes the spinner backplate followed by a small metal washer and then the propeller with bushings and then another metal washer and a thinner brass nut. Align the propeller with the stop stud on the backplate and tighten it with two 7mm ignition wrenches. Now you can install the spinner with two small screws and that's it.

Now I would suggest that you install all of the control horns and backplates on all of the moving surfaces with carefull attention to how their mounted while you can get at them easily before assembly.

There are three velcro strips that need to be installed to hold things in place, think carefully before you mount them, their hard to get back off. The strip for the receiver goes on the back of the pilots seat and the strip for the battery pack mounts to the plywood inside the bottom compartment and a third strip mounts in the bottom compartment on the verticle wall at the back of the compartment, it's for the LED light controller, it makes the LED lights blink, make sure it won't interfere with the bottom cover.

Now to install the horizontal stabilizer. Make sure the surfaces are free of factory glue overruns and that they are smooth. Now glue them with the supplied foam glue but be careful not to get it where you don't want it and be sure to get the front face also. Be pretty quick, it dries fast if exposed to the air.
The verticle stabilizer goes on much the same way, try the fit before you glue it and be carefull not to get any glue around the control rod or it may not move when it dries. Check for straightness of the verticle fin and let it all dry overnight.

Hook up the supplied charger to the aircraft battery pack and charge it for up to three hours or when the green light goes out, the red light stays on all of the time that it's plugged in.
Get yourself (8) quality AA batterys and load them into the compartment of the transmitter being carefull of the polarity.
Now flip over the transmitter face up, you'll notice 5 little slide switches near the bottom, channel 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Make sure channel 1 is up and that 2 through 5 are down.
These are reversing switches in case the controls work backwards, also, make sure the trim sliders are all centered.

After the aircraft battery is charged, hook up the wing servos to their proper channel plugs (the wires are short so be careful of the wing) and then turn on the Transmitter first, then plug in the aircraft battery pack. This will center all of the servos so you can install the links and center up the control surfaces. You can also plug in the LED connector and watch all of the lights flash. There are three wirng harnesses supplied that I think are used as temporary extenders for the wing wiring when servicing the wing but are not needed for flight.

The control links are not labeled but the two with "S" bends on one end and a white plastic clevis link on the other are for the ailerons, try to adjust them as close as you can and install them. The links for the flaps have "S" bends on one end and threads on the other and they go with the adjustable metal clevises, install them with the tiny nut (be careful) now adjust them with the supplied allen wrench. Now to use the flaps you will have to cut the inboard end free of the wing. The upper right toggle switch on the transmitter operates the flaps. Now you can install the tiny screws into the servos to hold the servo arms on. The screwdriver is magnetized to help hold those tiny screws but be careful, they can be hard to find if you drop them.

Now mount the wings with two long screws in the front and the two shorter ones in the rear. Then you can install the wing struts.

You can now check the operation of the whole plane and recheck the control centering.

If everything is OK, congratulations! You are now ready to put on the decals, their easy and if you goof you can pull them off and retry untill they suit you. Make sure your hands are very clean while doing so.

You can now glue on the 2 fake antennas on top of the wing since most of your assembly handeling is finished. Their easily broken.

Now you can check the balance point, it's 80mm behind the leading edge at the point where the wing meets the fuselage. It says to move the battery around but it might take more than that.

If your an experianced flier, your ready to try it out in the air but if your a new model pilot, let someone who is experienced help you so you don't tear up a very nice model plane.

The all up flying weight of this plane is 3-1/2 lbs.
The closest thing I have that is comparable to it weighs in at 6-1/2 lbs. So it's very light for it's size.

As an addendum: I just received my new 1.5 meter floats for this plane. They weigh 15oz. total and are made for this plane (and others). As you can see in my added pictures, they have a servo operated steerable water rudder with wiring and all of the hardware.
I'll post more pictures when I get them installed and on my pond.

OK, I got the floats on and posted the pictures to my album. It all worked out very well but I did make some changes.
First off the gear struts that came with the floats wouldn't work like I wanted so I discarded the widest one that was intended for the back and moved the front one to the back (after) I carefully straightened it out in the center to flattened it. Then I marked the center line and moved the new bend out to 2" on each side of it, that made a 4" wide center section to fit in the plane so I could close the cover and then re-bent the strut and put it in the rear slot and installed the floats. The original gear strut for the tires was moved to the front slot. Oh! And of course I removed the front steerable gear leg. Now you can re-check the balance point, it's 80mm behind the leading edge at the point where the wing meets the fuselage. It says to move the battery around but it might take more than that.

You can judge for yourself how it sits on the water.

Update 9/3/12: I re-mounted the pontoons by moving them back approx. 3-3/4" by using 1/2" aluminum angle that I got from Lowe's. This not only helped balance the whole plane, it also shifted the weight forward on the pontoons for better support in the water and as you can see in the last two pictures the tail of the pontoons now sit up out of the water. Much better now.

This has been a fun project and I enjoyed it very much.

Keep the blue side up! That's pilot lingo for the Artifcial Horizon gauge in a real plane.
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Last edited by flightsimmer; Sep 13, 2012 at 11:17 AM. Reason: added pictures
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 09:43 AM
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DCDetector's Avatar
United States, KS, Dodge City
Joined Sep 2012
73 Posts
I have a question about the LED connectors. The 2 line marked LED that come out of the fuselage have 3 wires(red, black, white) while the connectors on the wing have only 2 wires(red, black) and are a smaller connection. I've tried connecting them all different ways and still no lights. The light in the main cab is the only one that comes on.

My TW-747-III

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Last edited by DCDetector; Sep 12, 2012 at 10:25 AM.
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Old Sep 12, 2012, 01:43 PM
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Canada, BC, Port Coquitlam
Joined Apr 2012
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Nice write-up and great looking plane! I like that it is 1600mm, bigger than my excellent FMS 1400 Cessna 182. Videos?

BTW, why is this thread in the 3D sub-forum?
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 11:01 AM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easyrider604 View Post
Nice write-up and great looking plane! I like that it is 1600mm, bigger than my excellent FMS 1400 Cessna 182. Videos?

BTW, why is this thread in the 3D sub-forum?
Well I'm not that familiar with this forum and it seemed like the right place to put it.
I would call it a 3D foamy for lack of a better explanation.
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Old Sep 13, 2012, 11:12 AM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DCDetector View Post
I have a question about the LED connectors. The 2 line marked LED that come out of the fuselage have 3 wires(red, black, white) while the connectors on the wing have only 2 wires(red, black) and are a smaller connection. I've tried connecting them all different ways and still no lights. The light in the main cab is the only one that comes on.

My TW-747-III

Hmmm, sounds like you hooked them up right, like colors to like colors. All I can suggest is re-checking all of the connectors back to the led controller itself. Do the lights on the tail blink?

The only thing I would like to see added are switche(s) on the outside so you could turn the receiver and lights on and off without opening the bottom panel but then it would add to the cost.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:03 AM
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Just bought this plane for Christmas, assembled everything correctly I believe. but when I throttled up the plane goes backwards and none of my lights come on, can somebody please help me with this problem?
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:09 AM
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Hey Dc i got that same problem with the lights, exactly as you said about the LED wires. Did U get the issue resolved?
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by new2rcflyn View Post
Just bought this plane for Christmas, assembled everything correctly I believe. but when I throttled up the plane goes backwards and none of my lights come on, can somebody please help me with this problem?
Re read my assembly post, I discussed this problem.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 09:26 AM
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Thx Flight I'll go back n read carefully
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 09:48 AM
Don't worry be happy :)
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Joined Sep 2001
642 Posts
This is NOT a 3D-Foamie.
A better home would probably be in the Foamies (Kits) or the Parkflyers section.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stark View Post
This is NOT a 3D-Foamie.
A better home would probably be in the Foamies (Kits) or the Parkflyers section.
OK, then what is a 3D-foamie? As I said at the start, I am not very familiar with all these different terms as I have been away from RC flying for 4 or 5 decades and just recently got back into it.

So can these post be moved to the proper area?

All of my timelines seem to be in decades anymore, I must be getting old but I don't feel like it.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 02:25 PM
Don't worry be happy :)
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3D is a way to fly where the plane is stalled and is hold afloat by the prop during most manouvers.
This require very big control surfaces.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Stark View Post
3D is a way to fly where the plane is stalled and is hold afloat by the prop during most manouvers.
This require very big control surfaces.
I see, yes I've seen several demo's but had no idea that's what it was called.

So, like I said, can this one be moved or just re-started in another forum?
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 04:04 PM
Don't worry be happy :)
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It's already moved to the Foamies section. One of the moderators fixed it.
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Old Dec 26, 2012, 08:44 PM
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Flight reread your post got the plane to go forward switching the red connector, any body figured out how to get the light working on the cessna skylane 747 111, I looked at all connections which seam to be connected wright but still no lights
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