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Old Nov 09, 2012, 06:02 AM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
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Originally Posted by rocketscience View Post
DUH, TWO esc's need to have their BEC enabled. M1 and any one of the other ones. No wonder my tail servo wasn't working...
If your escs have linear Bec then you can run all your esc power to the board. If the are switching becs then only 1 to M1 and 1 to M2-8.
H
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 07:29 AM
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rocketscience's Avatar
USA, IL, Chicago
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Originally Posted by shelterock View Post
If your escs have linear Bec then you can run all your esc power to the board. If the are switching becs then only 1 to M1 and 1 to M2-8.
H
According to HK specs the blue series 20A has a 2A sbec, so I will assume switchmode. Regardless, 2A should be fine for 1 digital servo so I'll just use the 1 extra to m2.

are the gyro settings in this video a bit high?

video
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 02:43 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketscience View Post
According to HK specs the blue series 20A has a 2A sbec, so I will assume switchmode. Regardless, 2A should be fine for 1 digital servo so I'll just use the 1 extra to m2.

are the gyro settings in this video a bit high?

video
Yasuo480 has great skill but only shows his birds flying indoors. So you can run higher gains due to a lack of turbulence. The Plush's are decent ESCs that may have a higher refresh rate than others. Your Blue Series are Flashable with SimonK firmware that could allow gains in the 100-120 range.
Generally, lower gains are better, to a point. Look for that locked in feel and no wobble and you should be there. High speed wobble in general is too high P gain. low speed wobble is a I gain issue. set your ROLL/PITCH P gain first, then tune I, then tune the Yaw P and I.

I don't know if your Blue Series are linear becs or switched. A digital servo uses more amps then analog and can draw high amps depending on load. To avoid any issue find out which bec you have and is its linear, hook up the 3rd ESC too for assurance. Think of it as a back up insurance, incase you brown out an ESC. you're carrying the weight of it anyway, so might as well use it.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 03:08 PM
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It's a tough one . Hobby King seems to state that the bec is a switching BEC . However there is no ferrite ring on it , so it makes me wonder if it really is linear instead . Just to be safe , I think I will run only one BEC to motor two . I do have separate BEC 's but I think I won't bother given that there is only one servo and I doubt it is running at 2A .

I was able to test hover in my yard . And I think I tuned it okay . I have Pgain at about 90 . And then I took it to the field and it seems to fly okay even with a slight breeze .

Talon Tricopter Maiden (3 min 25 sec)
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Last edited by rocketscience; Nov 09, 2012 at 04:13 PM.
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 09:29 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
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I'd say you got it dialed in right. Looks very good. H
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Old Nov 09, 2012, 10:54 PM
If it flies, I can crash it!
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Naperville, IL
Joined Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rocketscience View Post
It's a tough one . Hobby King seems to state that the bec is a switching BEC . However there is no ferrite ring on it , so it makes me wonder if it really is linear instead . Just to be safe , I think I will run only one BEC to motor two . I do have separate BEC 's but I think I won't bother given that there is only one servo and I doubt it is running at 2A .

I was able to test hover in my yard . And I think I tuned it okay . I have Pgain at about 90 . And then I took it to the field and it seems to fly okay even with a slight breeze .
Hey rocketscience. I see we are in close proximity to one another. Where do you fly? I'm in Naperville.

Doug
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 01:40 AM
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USA, IL, Chicago
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Originally Posted by djdavid60 View Post
Hey rocketscience. I see we are in close proximity to one another. Where do you fly? I'm in Naperville.

Doug
I just now got back from the golf dome (White Pines in Bensenville). I get my fix on fridays and saturdays there (11pm - 1am) except tomorrow cuz I have to be on a phone call for work.

Outdoors I am at Checkerboard field (I'm a member of that club) right across from Loyola Hospital. If you're ever out this way stop on by.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 09:51 AM
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A little more testing at the dome. My rear motor/tail mount shakes a bit. I tried turning down gain but I think it has to do with the sloppy pivot. Possibly unbalanced blades. It doesn't affect performance and you can't really see it.

dome 1109 (5 min 13 sec)
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 10:06 AM
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Australia, WA, Joondalup
Joined Oct 2010
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[QUOTE=rocketscience;23233017]A little more testing at the dome. My rear motor/tail mount shakes a bit. I tried turning down gain but I think it has to do with the sloppy pivot. Possibly unbalanced blades. It doesn't affect performance and you can't really see it.

Cool place for testing RS..
Did you do the tail bearing mod posted to eliminate the mojor design foopar for the pivot?
I found the rotor head bearing set from a blade 400 was the correct size as well..
works a treat.
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 11:34 AM
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I saw that.. but i didnt think the screw was long ehough to grab the nylock threads. I may have to take that apart and try it. I have a ton of 450 thrust washers. Did you tighten it down pretty snug?
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 04:33 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
877 Posts
After mounting the 320mm Arms from the Talon Quad, I went and chased my buddy in his Stintson Reliant right to the heart break hotel. Got 380mm CF arms now but I will wait till my next incident to replace the stock 221mm.
Talon Tricopter Onboard chase of Stintson Reliant (2 min 38 sec)


Lost orientation because I flew while waiting for a servo extension to light the strobe on the tail. Stupid decision but whata you gonna do!
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Old Nov 10, 2012, 09:04 PM
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Australia, WA, Joondalup
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Originally Posted by rocketscience View Post
I saw that.. but i didnt think the screw was long ehough to grab the nylock threads. I may have to take that apart and try it. I have a ton of 450 thrust washers. Did you tighten it down pretty snug?
Bolt length I found was just enough, use a dab of thread lock to be sure.
using pic as a ref;
remove the flange bearing from the tail boom clamp brkt, & install one of the thrust bearings in its place. The second thrust bearing goes under the bolt head. I left the M3 washer as a shim between the thrust bearing & remaining flange bearing in the motor brkt. Tighten as u would for your heli to ensure smooth rotation.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 01:11 AM
skidding in the sky
WitnessOnly's Avatar
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jan 2010
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Really like your cage idea RTKF i suspect it might prove itself to be of some worth.

Heres my little addition to the Talon conversation/mod knowledge base, while waiting for HK to get their spares list up to date I got 'inovative'...


And yep flys sweet

Also note the nylon nut as a thrust bearing, again doing quite well thank you very much It was reamed out to give it some wriggle room so to speak.
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 09:58 AM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
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I just busted a couple props with a kk2 1.5fw and decided to try gemfan 11x4.7sf props. The watt meter is showing 310w on a hard pump and 28a. So pushed, I'm seeing only 9.5 amps per esc and 100w per motor. The tri flies quite differently with these props over a 9x5x3 GWS. I have mixed feelings. On the one hand I have much more lifting power. But the frame behaves differently. Stable and harder to turn. Maybe it's my settings in the kk2 and maybe it's because of the large disk area.
To be experimented with....
Anyone else try different props?
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Old Nov 11, 2012, 10:15 AM
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I use gemfan 9x4.7 on my quad and on the tri, but I'm running 4S. I really like the gemfans .. hardly ever need balancing and pretty stiff. Not sure what the normal prop is for this setup, but I imagine most are running 3S..
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