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Old Oct 22, 2012, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by shelterock View Post
Eirik,
Also you got to pay to play. Every F1 car is the best but boy is that expensive to build and fix.
H
Indeed. This is not my main machine for acro, but it flies so well that I get tempted and pull the occational flip and roll anyway. Like KapteinK says: if you don't crash it you're not flying it right. :-)

Just stock up on spare parts and be prepared to have a whole lot of fun and also spend a bit of time repairing. Like you need to do with everything that is flying...
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 11:11 AM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
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Originally Posted by jimjim View Post
thanks, it spun very fast instantly, i'll look into the gyro stuff. are you contactable on any any messenger service as I don't want make to many posts here
I'm having major Internet connectivity issue on your email
Will try again in a bit.
H
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 03:35 PM
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Wagga Wagga, Australia
Joined Sep 2008
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Originally Posted by eirikso View Post
Another day. Another dead tail servo. And a warning.

Went out flying today. And unfortunately I managed to hit a tree with one of the front arms and crashed into a fairly soft field.

Must have been very unlucky because this rather non dramatic crash from 2-3 meters caused:

- One broken front arm
- One dead tail servo
- One dead ESC
- Two bent motor mounts
- One broken carbon prop
- All motors filled with dirt

And the warning: that carbon frame conducts electricity pretty well. In the crash one of the ESCs ended up with a hole in the shrink wrap. So the electronics touched the carbon.

Causing magic smoke from the ESC and magic smoke from my video TX. On the video TX the smoke came from a spot where the metal housing touched the carbon.

So, I have fixed everything completely now, but changed the way I mounted the ESCs and the video Tx. I inserted a 3 mm layer of non conductive material between them and the carbon frame.

Still love the Talon. Both the performance and the quickest and best folding mechanism I have ever seen. But we can conclude that it is not the most sturdy frame out there...
eirikso

Dah! What a pain.

That's a lot of damage for a non dramatic crash.

Sanding those sharp edges as shelterock says would help, along with the non-conductive material you added.

One concern I had in the build was the camera plate bolts run close to the size of a 2200 Lipo (both 3S and 4S). And can rub on the battery. I had to use insulation foam round them to move the battery above them. Of course this issue depends on the size of, and where you attach, the battery.

While I have not crashed -- yet ....cause I'm too chicken too flip it etc, I still wonder if the 14mm carbon booms are too thick and really need to break in a crash. Many other multi-rotor designers say this (like MultiWiiCopter).

The 12mm HK450 booms do fit inside the Talon 14mm and the 12mm walls are so thin that they should make a good fuse and redirect crash damage Also it would be a good way to extend the arms like shelterock has. Actually longer arms would be more likely to break.

Just a theory, but I have a quad with this set up and may soon test that theory -- not deliberately of course!!

But as you say - still a great tricopter.

R
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 03:37 PM
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Wagga Wagga, Australia
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Originally Posted by eirikso View Post
Indeed. This is not my main machine for acro, but it flies so well that I get tempted and pull the occational flip and roll anyway. Like KapteinK says: if you don't crash it you're not flying it right. :-)

Just stock up on spare parts and be prepared to have a whole lot of fun and also spend a bit of time repairing. Like you need to do with everything that is flying...
So true
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by jimjim View Post
Thanks shelterrock. So if a tri can fly any combination, what i need to do is find a way to edit the kk2 to control flight for anti clockwise rotation on all props. Then I might be back in business.

[UPDATE] having just looked through the menus on the kk2 I'm pretty sure that motor direction can not be edited. Is it a bad idea to just reverse the motor direction with out setting up the kk2 accordingly first?

[2nd UPDATE] Couldn't wait any longer so gave it a go anyway. It started spin anti clockwise very fast, no lasting damage done. Without an option to edit prop direction on the kk2 I guess i have to get new props. Can anyone recommend some suitable to fit on the hexTronik DT750 4mm shaft or will I need to get an adapter first?
sorry to butt in...

jimjim

As shelterock may have said most props come with inserts, and that includes the the props Dave recommends in his earlier build. I think the 10" props would be better on the current frame though (because of the shorter boom length).



I have run these with no problems on a tri with DT750's -- actually they run really well: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=9847

I know the Flitetest H copter uses them as well.

r
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 03:56 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
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CF is very stiff and will not handle a crash well. If you plan to destroy everything build a wooden arm jobby that is a quick fix. I have 221, 320, and 380 arms coming. I am more concerned about the tail servos packing in at every crash. $21 a piece for a 306 sucks. I flew a tri for a whole year with 1 servo and it was still good after dozens of crashes learning to fly.

I guess a quality flight controller with "self-level bailout button" on it could be a worthwhile investment. I successfully got the wires through the arms and connected the spring without desoldering and resoldering bullets so that speeds things up some.
I'm flying with a hobbyking cheapy MG servo digital 922mg right now. 0.09 sec to 60' on 4.5V and its fine. Plenty of yaw response and rock steady on the KK2.
My 306 arrives in the next day or so but i'm not putting it on until I trash this servo first.
H
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by shelterock View Post
CF is very stiff and will not handle a crash well. If you plan to destroy everything build a wooden arm jobby that is a quick fix. I have 221, 320, and 380 arms coming. I am more concerned about the tail servos packing in at every crash. $21 a piece for a 306 sucks. I flew a tri for a whole year with 1 servo and it was still good after dozens of crashes learning to fly.

I guess a quality flight controller with "self-level bailout button" on it could be a worthwhile investment. I successfully got the wires through the arms and connected the spring without desoldering and resoldering bullets so that speeds things up some.
I'm flying with a hobbyking cheapy MG servo digital 922mg right now. 0.09 sec to 60' on 4.5V and its fine. Plenty of yaw response and rock steady on the KK2.
My 306 arrives in the next day or so but i'm not putting it on until I trash this servo first.
H
shelterock -- I thought you guys were still in bed, not like us down under still trying to get up!

So true - wooden frames are easy to fix and from what you guys are showing us, do less damage. I agree my wooden tri has hit the ground many times and never damaged the servo.

Maybe it would be better to have the tail servo on top? Or back in the body and rotate the boom. I guess we are the design team for the Talon V2, and HK will reward each of us with a free V2 Tri!

So true, a quality FC like MultiWiiCopter is good value - I can recommend it - its self level is excellent and has a nice upgrade path. http://www.multiwiicopter.com/produc...irius-v4r6-usb (actually I think Quinton is doing a promo this week. I'm not connected with his shop)

You could have a nite flight b4 the day is out :-)

Happy flying
R
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 05:17 PM
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I'm thinking of mounting the motors under the mount and use a collet adapter on the motor shaft. It will lower the cg and pivot point the might reduce the stress upon impact. With the motor sitting on top of the motor mount you have all the mass on the outside of the rotation point. It's a cantilever that needs higher forces and in a crash could blow out your servo. I need to find some collects to try.
H
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 12:35 AM
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So true! With motor below the mount the cog is more inline with the axis of rotation. Good for the tail control.

Also better on motor bearings: the bearing lower load as the prop spins just above the top bearing. And another thing the motor cir-clip is now on the bottom and for most of the time is not in tension.

So lots of good reasons :-)

The only thing worth considering is that the motor is also closer to the dirt and can be the first to hit the ground! Meaning not only a bent motor mount but also a bend motor shaft or damaged housing.

So I don't know if one can win with the perfect set up. Each have +ve and -ve points. I fly both types and am not won either way. But I agree, the tail motor would be the best candidate for the lower mounted motor.

Another thought: The Talon mounts do lend them selves to having some protector attached at the landing gear bolt on points. Maybe something could think up something here.

If you want shaft prop adapters don't get any 4 jaw types - very hard to align! 3 jaw better, and currently I use straight connector with double grub screws eg: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=8722

Rob
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 12:41 AM
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Joined Aug 2010
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My tri so far. Flies great but I swapped out these 8" carbon fiber props from RC Timer with some 9" carbon reinforced props from Flyduino. Using a 4S 3300 nano-tech, OpenPilot CC3D and Cobra 2213/26 950Kv motors.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:47 AM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
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Originally Posted by 3rdeyepro View Post
My tri so far. Flies great but I swapped out these 8" carbon fiber props from RC Timer with some 9" carbon reinforced props from Flyduino. Using a 4S 3300 nano-tech, OpenPilot CC3D and Cobra 2213/26 950Kv motors.
Sweet Setup. How do you like the CC3D unit, compared to others you may have flown? I see you're using the GoPro backpac connection over the 3mm plug in the side. How do you like that feature? Bluetooth setup on Android? OSD? How did you do your power distribution, 3 ESC into 1 plug or Distro Board?
What's your thoughts on the RCtimer carbon props. did you change from 8-9" for a reason? was it prop issues or more lift capability?
H
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by RobJCook View Post
So true! With motor below the mount the cog is more inline with the axis of rotation. Good for the tail control.
If you want shaft prop adapters don't get any 4 jaw types - very hard to align! 3 jaw better, and currently I use straight connector with double grub screws eg: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idproduct=8722

Rob
Rob in the picture of your motor mounted, I see a combo of CF rods going into the mount. Is that 14mm into a 12mm CF tube? What's the idea there? curious...
H
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by shelterock View Post
Sweet Setup. How do you like the CC3D unit, compared to others you may have flown? I see you're using the GoPro backpac connection over the 3mm plug in the side. How do you like that feature? Bluetooth setup on Android? OSD? How did you do your power distribution, 3 ESC into 1 plug or Distro Board?
What's your thoughts on the RCtimer carbon props. did you change from 8-9" for a reason? was it prop issues or more lift capability?
H
- Love the CC3D. So stable. Pretty much use openpilot boards only now.
- GoPro connection seems to be working great, I use it to power the gopro and get video out
- Bluetooth to a netbook now for tuning
- OSD is the team blacksheep core OSD
- Power dist is like the attached method I came up with
- RC timer props made my video have loads of jello despite balancing them. I put some gemfan carbon reinforced props on and the problem mostly went away. Do get a bit more lift now as well with the 9"
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by shelterock View Post
Rob in the picture of your motor mounted, I see a combo of CF rods going into the mount. Is that 14mm into a 12mm CF tube? What's the idea there? curious...
H
That's right,H, this is what I have in my quad. MultiWiiCopter boom mounts are 12mm and HK motor mounts are 14. Hence the 14mm piece to adapt. The HK 14mm CF tube is a good fit over the 12mm CF HK450 Heli boom.

But no problem as I suspect that HK booms may be too strong and hence the transference of energy to the other components in a crash.

R
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 02:58 PM
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Wagga Wagga, Australia
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Originally Posted by 3rdeyepro View Post
- Love the CC3D. So stable. Pretty much use openpilot boards only now.
- GoPro connection seems to be working great, I use it to power the gopro and get video out
- Bluetooth to a netbook now for tuning
- OSD is the team blacksheep core OSD
- Power dist is like the attached method I came up with
- RC timer props made my video have loads of jello despite balancing them. I put some gemfan carbon reinforced props on and the problem mostly went away. Do get a bit more lift now as well with the 9"

Cool distn board! Good to hear you like openpilot. I'm tempted! Would not mind that new ARM board they have in the pipeline. It sounds like it will like the arducopter in features. Like your site.

Oh - those are nice motors! Saw on GLB for $52
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