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Old Oct 09, 2012, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by shelterock View Post
That's a software issue. Unless you can find a way to turn the servo in the other direction in the frame, hardware won't solve your problem.
Rabbit forum to see how you reverse a gyro is my guess.
H
I think it might be because the servo is analog and not digital, so it can be a response issue. The gyro is correct, and the blade rotations are all correct, if I use a digital servo, it might solve the issue I'm having. At first I thought it was not enough torque, so now I will look for a digital servo. Hopefully it should be ok.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 10:49 AM
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Bigmic's Avatar
Norway, Sogn og Fjordane, Askvoll
Joined Aug 2012
80 Posts
Hi guys,
sorry, but Im a noob here and I just ordred som parts from hk - that meens : 20A BlueSeries and NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv together with KK2.0 Multi-rotor LCD Flight Control Board for my Talon Tricopter.

Now my question: Is it a "must be" to flash the ESC with SimonK firmware or is it possible to program the esc`s with the R/C and: what are the differents in the flight? I ask, becaue i havent the hardware and no idea how to do this...

THX

Mic
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 10:53 AM
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United States, FL, Miami
Joined Jul 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigmic View Post
Now my question: Is it a "must be" to flash the ESC with SimonK firmware or is it possible to program the esc`s with the R/C and: what are the differents in the flight? I ask, becaue i havent the hardware and no idea how to do this...

THX

Mic
Its not required for flight BUT it makes a big difference in performance of your multirotor, kinda late but im selling some here
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 10:53 AM
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Kingdom of Sweden, Dalarna County, Sater
Joined Oct 2011
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You don't have to flash them, they just perform better if you do. However, DO NOT flash these. The 1200kv NTM motors are incompatible with flashed ESCs. You need to flash these with an alternate firmware.. Wii something, can't remember the name.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 11:40 AM
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United States, FL, Miami
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WiseDuck View Post
You don't have to flash them, they just perform better if you do. However, DO NOT flash these. The 1200kv NTM motors are incompatible with flashed ESCs. You need to flash these with an alternate firmware.. Wii something, can't remember the name.
the other firmware is called Wii-esc but simonk fixed the stall issue with his firmware 2012-09-30 here and here
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 12:25 PM
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Norway, Sogn og Fjordane, Askvoll
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Ok - Thank you guys
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 02:19 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
878 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by R.T.K.F View Post
Hi Cew,

Just collecting info & parts while I wait for my talon frame to show up.
What Power Distribution Board are you guys using?

Cheers Brad.
Hi Brad,
I used the Hobbyking Quad Power distro and use 3 outpus for ESC and one for the KK2 voltage meter. I also plan to run my LEDs from there on 3S. I need to figure out what to do if I run 4S because that's too much for LEDs.

H
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 02:25 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
878 Posts
Right, so, after all that soldering of leads and bullets to get everything in the 320mm arms, I proceeded to stuff it in the ground. I was chasing a Stintson Reliant in LOS. I have a flashing strobe LED on the tail for orientation. stupidly, I decided to fly with the longer arms, 320mm, before getting a lead extension for the LED., Lost orientation and crashed from 30 feet up. Not cool!! broke 2 props and 2 of the new arms. Motor mounts are ok.

So last night I got online to order new arms, and the Tricopter Parts section now offers 380mm arms with precut slots for the pivot mechanism. Sweet.

She flew great with the 320mm arms, rock steady. I'll edit some onboard video of my ContourHD camera zip tied on with no rubber isolation at all. Very good.

I'm warming up my soldering iron again!!
H
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 02:26 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
878 Posts
does anyone know if you can get 2mm or 2.3mm bullets past the pivot points in the front arms? I'm using 16 gauge wire to the motor - ESC connections and its a PITA to keep unsolder/soldering bullets to change the arms.
H
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 05:39 PM
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R.T.K.F's Avatar
Australia, WA, Joondalup
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shelterock View Post
Hi Brad,
I used the Hobbyking Quad Power distro and use 3 outpus for ESC and one for the KK2 voltage meter. I also plan to run my LEDs from there on 3S. I need to figure out what to do if I run 4S because that's too much for LEDs.

H
Cheers H,
wouldve been nice if HK had put that in the part reqd list..
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 05:54 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
878 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by R.T.K.F View Post
Cheers H,
wouldve been nice if HK had put that in the part reqd list..
Nothing stops you from soldering 3 red and 3 black power leads together into an XT60 plug. That's what I did on my first tricopter. The XT60 plug has a u shaped channel that makes ot easy to solder large bundled wires.
I choose the power distro because the escs I have came off a hexa that burst into flames and wasn't confident that they were working properly. This allowed me to switches out gear easily.
H
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 06:08 PM
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Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shelterock View Post
does anyone know if you can get 2mm or 2.3mm bullets past the pivot points in the front arms? I'm using 16 gauge wire to the motor - ESC connections and its a PITA to keep unsolder/soldering bullets to change the arms.
H
H,

I was able to get 3.5mm through but 1 at a time was the only way, I used string to pull them through individually, 2 on one side of the locking arm and 1 on the other.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 06:10 PM
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Australia, WA, Joondalup
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Yeh H, I think I will probably go that way. Rob was kind enough to send an example to go off..
Is good to see another contourHD flying... haha
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 06:28 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
878 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by WitnessOnly View Post
H,

I was able to get 3.5mm through but 1 at a time was the only way, I used string to pull them through individually, 2 on one side of the locking arm and 1 on the other.
Was that with or without shrink wrap? I guess I can practice all I want now that she's smashed up...
Ordered the 380mm arms too!
H
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 08:43 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
878 Posts
Well, my crash trashed my tail servo. I have another digital 26g from solar but its a clunker. She doesn't fit the plate without some serious grinding. I guess I have to order a 306!
H
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Last edited by shelterock; Oct 09, 2012 at 09:45 PM.
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