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Old Oct 03, 2012, 12:12 PM
RC Man Child!
United States, CA, San Mateo
Joined Mar 2010
208 Posts
Guys, I'm not getting the durability issues here. Those booms are strong and something has to give. The motor mounts will bend but only if you slam them on the ground. The Talon series and not designed to bash and be crashed. They are elegant and high end multi frames. If you get stronger mounts, your always replacing booms or breaking main plates. Pick your poison. They're is no indestructible, lite, cheap options on the market. Compare to a base line, not a perfect world.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 01:26 PM
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mongo56's Avatar
Slovenia
Joined Aug 2007
406 Posts
+1
If you want to minimize damage try to find a corn field. I've parked it twice in the corn now with no damage other than a prop

I've added a thrust bearing and I can fasten the nut now while still being smooth as butter.
Also, the nut got loose after a while without a thrust bearing and was driving me nuts (pun intended ^^)
Screw -> thrust bearing -> flanged bearing(arm) -> washer -> flanged bearing(mount) -> nut
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 01:32 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
878 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhdsracer View Post
Guys, I'm not getting the durability issues here. Those booms are strong and something has to give. The motor mounts will bend but only if you slam them on the ground. The Talon series and not designed to bash and be crashed. They are elegant and high end multi frames. If you get stronger mounts, your always replacing booms or breaking main plates. Pick your poison. They're is no indestructible, lite, cheap options on the market. Compare to a base line, not a perfect world.
I agree, but the Metal should survive and the arms should break with reasonable force. I've always suspected the 3 position pivot points would break on a nose in impact ruining the upper and lower plate for $45 worth of damage + shipping.

There needs to be a fuse in the equation and i'd rather it be the arms.

She flies great though, so smooth and fluid. what an improvement of the RCExplorer wooden setup.

My parts made it to NY, Hope to have 320MM arms in place this weekend with LED's.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 06:02 PM
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RobJCook's Avatar
Wagga Wagga, Australia
Joined Sep 2008
189 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by shelterock View Post
Hi Rob,
It had potential but the Arms on Multiwiicopters are 12mm OD 11mm ID and the Turnigy arms at 14mm OD and 12MM ID so they wouldn't fit. I'm sure if you clamped them down hard you might get that to work. Their Carbon inserts work on 11MM ID. It's too bad. Maybe someone could build a carbon insert like that for the Turnigy products.

DialFonZo seems to be on the cutting edge with his CNC capabilities.
I'll PM him.
H
Personally I like the 14mm OD booms. But I have 12mm on my quad because it has the MWC boom mounts.
I got the Talon mounts because they are cheaper than MWC, and they have the landing gear mounts on them too, then I realised they are 14mm so I had to do the adaption you see in my picy.

It's a pity the Talon mounts are weak. Is it because the 14mm booms shift the impact or is it also because they are made from lower grade Al?

Not all MWC flying machines use the CF insert (e.g http://www.multiwiicopter.com/produc...ica-quadcopter ). As Stunt Double points out the weak link, the fuse as you call it, are the arms.

One could use the 12mm HK booms with some 14mm CF to fit to Talon mounts. The HK450 booms are definitely weaker!!!

I would however be interested in the CF inserts.

I'm a pretty tame flyer cf some, and especially someone like Warthox who I would love to be able to fly like.

I mostly enjoy FPV and that's what I got the Talon Tri for.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 06:03 PM
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RobJCook's Avatar
Wagga Wagga, Australia
Joined Sep 2008
189 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by mongo56 View Post
+1
If you want to minimize damage try to find a corn field. I've parked it twice in the corn now with no damage other than a prop

I've added a thrust bearing and I can fasten the nut now while still being smooth as butter.
Also, the nut got loose after a while without a thrust bearing and was driving me nuts (pun intended ^^)
Screw -> thrust bearing -> flanged bearing(arm) -> washer -> flanged bearing(mount) -> nut
Would love a picky - that's a great idea
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 06:28 PM
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R.T.K.F's Avatar
Australia, WA, Joondalup
Joined Oct 2010
322 Posts
Turnigy Multistar Multi-rotor Brushless ESC

Hey crew, subscribed to this thread.
Plenty of good info so far, looking forward to receiving my talon soon.

I was curious if dhdsracer has seen or been involved with the new range of ESC?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._ESC_2_4S.html

Buy the way, gold star and an elephant stamp for your vids Don.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 12:29 PM
RC Man Child!
United States, CA, San Mateo
Joined Mar 2010
208 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by R.T.K.F View Post
Hey crew, subscribed to this thread.
Plenty of good info so far, looking forward to receiving my talon soon.

I was curious if dhdsracer has seen or been involved with the new range of ESC?
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._ESC_2_4S.html

Buy the way, gold star and an elephant stamp for your vids Don.
Thanks for the star and stamp! Those are going up on my fridge.

I personally haven't tried the new multistar ESC's but know they should be good. Ben tells me that they are designed with a higher refresh rate than the Plushes and are using the Atmel chips for easy flashing if you choose. Is really tough to say if they will perform like a SimonK stock, but at least they won't be sneaking SilLabs chips into the line down the road like Hobbywing did.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 01:32 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
878 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhdsracer View Post
Thanks for the star and stamp! Those are going up on my fridge.

I personally haven't tried the new multistar ESC's but know they should be good. Ben tells me that they are designed with a higher refresh rate than the Plushes and are using the Atmel chips for easy flashing if you choose. Is really tough to say if they will perform like a SimonK stock, but at least they won't be sneaking SilLabs chips into the line down the road like Hobbywing did.
Don, they mention refresh rates of 480-499mhz. What does SimonK do for the refresh? If I don't need to flash all the better.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 05:00 PM
Too Many Thread Subscriptions
TheFernMan's Avatar
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Jul 2012
2,186 Posts
I think a few people have already bash them for having switching bec and P/N-Fets and some other stuff.
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Old Oct 04, 2012, 06:03 PM
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R.T.K.F's Avatar
Australia, WA, Joondalup
Joined Oct 2010
322 Posts
Cheers Don,

I have a set of 20A & 30A coming,but I might hold off installing them and go with the SimonK as per your parts list for initial set-up.
Would be nice if they sent you a set to review and get your two cents worth.

Cheers Brad.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 08:29 PM
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Joined Aug 2004
55 Posts
S I have a tri frame, hooked it all up to a rabbit flight controller, it seems to not function correctly, I installed the rotors according to the guide, the left is cw, and the right and rudder are ccw. I'm using a hitech hs85, which has plenty of torque, the motors are the dji 920 kv, and am running the turnigy 25a esc. Th problem I have with the craft is that it wants to spun 360 as soon as I take off. Anyone have a clue to what is going on?

I will switch out the configuration of the blades and motor rotation, It might be an error of the part of whoever wrote the instructions for rabbit.
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Old Oct 05, 2012, 11:06 PM
Not a six pack
rocketscience's Avatar
USA, IL, Chicago
Joined Jul 2008
5,295 Posts
Sounds like your rudder gyro needs to be reversed
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 04:16 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
878 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tkouz View Post
S I have a tri frame, hooked it all up to a rabbit flight controller, it seems to not function correctly, I installed the rotors according to the guide, the left is cw, and the right and rudder are ccw. I'm using a hitech hs85, which has plenty of torque, the motors are the dji 920 kv, and am running the turnigy 25a esc. Th problem I have with the craft is that it wants to spun 360 as soon as I take off. Anyone have a clue to what is going on?

I will switch out the configuration of the blades and motor rotation, It might be an error of the part of whoever wrote the instructions for rabbit.
That's a software issue. Unless you can find a way to turn the servo in the other direction in the frame, hardware won't solve your problem.
Rabbit forum to see how you reverse a gyro is my guess.
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 04:19 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
878 Posts
Right, got my new motor. Reconfigured the wired bundle under the decking and then saw I lost a finger nut on the left pivot. Any solutions to preventing these from falling off with vibs.
I'm thinking lock nut on bottom and finger nut on top?
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Old Oct 06, 2012, 06:13 PM
Fly, crash, rebuild.
United States, NY, Shelter Island
Joined May 2011
878 Posts
Where are you guys putting the cg of this tri. If I work to get the cg right on the flight controller, I'm hanging a contour HD and a battery ahead of the board to get the right cg.
Also, what batteries are you having success with? 2200 3s or 4s on 10x6x3 props and NTM2826 1000kV are getting me 5 min max.
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