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Old Nov 21, 2012, 08:14 AM
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Cut a strip of aluminum from a can to fit in the oring grove. This should give you a .008-.012 extra crush of the oring, but it is somewhat disconcerting that the material creeps so much.

Adam
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 11:58 AM
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Thank guys!
A couple of thoughts, if the tube gets out of shape, can I put a rubber band on the end to get it back in shape? or is it once stretched it is stretched? Help me Obi Won Derk!

Aluminum or Aluminium, depending on your region, would workI could affix it with RTV silicon. Would using a strip of styrene plastic work too?
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 12:50 PM
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The plastic might work, it is just thicker. The aluminum cans are pretty consistent in thickness. So for some readily available shim stock, they work well. They are also good for making small scribing templates on the fly. As to the shape being permanently deformed, Like I said, I would not have guessed that this resin would creep so much. If the bore is true, there should not be much pressure between the o-ring and bore. For cases like this, I always size my o-rings for dynamic sealing. They fit will not be as tight, and if submerged for days on end, might produce a measurable leak, but for a few hours should be fine.

Adam
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 12:52 AM
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you might be able to find the tubing somewhere online, the small size is harder to find in any local places. one of my larger projects the tube is a florescent explosion tube from Ace hardware, it was the thickest i could find.
you might pm Rick about getting a replacement if needed.
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Old Nov 25, 2012, 09:45 PM
made of fire and pop rocks
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So I found myself At the Science Museum of Virginia today, And since they make you pay full admission now to look at the big holiday model train display, I thought I would slip behind the joint and snap off some pics of the 1:1 prototype. Unfortunately, I only had my phone cam with me, so the pics aren't the greatest quality. I must have had some schmutz on the lens I didn't notice, the cam usually takes much better pics. One of these days I'm going to get me one of them fancy DSLR's

I hope y'all find them useful
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 11:37 AM
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bgnome,
Thank you these are great! There is a lot of information in these photos.
You ROCK!

Peace,
Tom
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 08:19 PM
made of fire and pop rocks
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nottaproblem sir, hope you get good use out of them... by the way.. that hatch in the tenth picture is how one gains access to the conning tower.

all I can say is... yeah.. at 6' 6", 250lbs.I wouldn't fit through that

in fact really looking at the thing? I would dare say they would have to calculate the mass of the occupants giant brass balls when considering the ballast

as per pic #9.. that's the inside.. the tail end of the craft with the conning tower, presumably the same point that you have your internals access for the model, is separated so you can look inside the craft. there is a big plexiglass wall that allows you to look inside the craft and it looks like most of the original equipment is still in there. like the day it was retired. frozen in time.

the whole thing is sitting on a special railway car cradle for storage and transport. so, that's something to consider when making a display stand for your model. if you are interested, I could probably slip back over at some point and get pics of all that as well.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 01:12 AM
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That cradle and railway might be a nice touch.

I have no problem sharing my mistakes, maybe it will help someone prevent making the same ones I do or it will encourage someone knowing mistakes happen and not to get discouraged when they happen.

In my stash of styrene I had .005" and .010", I thought as loose as the end was .010" would work great. I cut a strip out, and glued it down around the channel.
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Then a little drop of Bondene on the ends of the strip (that were just touching) and mashed them together with tweezer. This welds the plastic together into one contiguous band.
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Well of course it did not work. It was way too much.
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Now panic set in, can I dig the band out before the CA hardens completely. So I dug and dug and got it out. What a dummy I am. Why did I not do the teflon tape like I originally wanted to do? I wrapped one doubled over piece just one time around, placed the o-ring in and tested. It was really tight, but it worked!

So time to add the equipment tray. After the o-ring incident this seemed like it would be a breeze. I aligned the tray up and tacked it with CA glue. After that set for a little amount, I continued gluing it around the edge.
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It seemed a little long. It is, I think Rick used a tray from one of his torpedoes - it makes sense - it is efficient use of parts. Marked where it ended and subtracted the amount the bow piece goes in.
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Tested the fit and it worked. I want the tray to be close to the bow end because I will have the connection to the light bar made between these two parts.
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Old Nov 28, 2012, 07:21 PM
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looking great Tom!

i really should start on mine and get over my fear of wrecking something on it
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 01:53 AM
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Thanks Derk! I would like to see you build this, so we can compare notes.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 06:24 AM
Man from Atlantis
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To be honest, I'd be very surprised indeed if the the plastic expands to the extent that you get leaks.

Generally these sort of leaks are due to poor tolerancing of the endcaps. Mould shrinkage perhaps?

I tend to favour machined endcaps, as they are made to fit.

If or when you get your little lathe, Tom, machine up a little two part aluminium bayonet ring, you will never experience a leak again, at least not through that part anyway!
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:03 AM
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I will have a lathe in a week and a couple of days and that sounds great to just build your own. I need to learn how to chuck it up first! Would you mind if I picked you brain on this? Offline or here, your choice.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 10:33 AM
Man from Atlantis
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Well the golden rule with putting something in a chuck, especially a 3-jaw, is once it's in there, leave it in there until all the machining operations are complete. If you take it out, the chances are you won't get it realigned again.
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 11:04 AM
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What lathe did you get. As was said, three jaw chucks are not all that great. They are fine for doing quick and dirty work, but I personally prefer to use a four jaw chuck and a test indicator for lining things up. I also have a set of ER40 collets that I use with my lathe (Atlas 618). The collets are much better for quick operations. They should center to within .0005" which is pretty good. It is better than I need. With the ER40 I can go up to 1" (Actually I am getting one that will allow for 1.125"). I think that I can go all the way down to 3/32". For the tail stock I have ER16 collets with a MT1 adaptor (it may be a MT2 I cannot remember). This will hold my drill bits with much better accuracy than the cheap chuchs that typically come with the lathes. I got tired of trying to drill small holes and having the drill bit not center well (yes even with the center of the tail stock being properly set). Also I recommend a quick change tool post, they are very helpful.

Adam
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Old Nov 29, 2012, 11:37 AM
Man from Atlantis
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Jeez, don't scare the bloke off Adam!

Never used collets.

I use a three jaw for most work, only switch to a 4-jaw if the rechucking a premachined part, or something irregular in shape.

Pretty much all parts on a model submarine have quite wide tolerance, even the o-ring gland has quite a wide margin, so it really isn't that hard to make bits.
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