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Old Aug 31, 2012, 01:38 PM
Boaters are nice people.
Sneek, Netherlands.
Joined May 2004
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Hi Jordan,

One more thing; the cooling jacket is a peculiar piece, the outlet should sit in the highest position, so no air stays trapped in the jacket.

Fortunately yours is transparent, so you can check if it's filled completely when you push water through the inlet (sirynge).

If this is not the case and you suffer from the 'partially cooled motorcan', try to turn the jacket, so the outlet is on top.

A squirt of silicon oil in the jacket may help to get the jacket to move.

Regards, Jan.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 02:31 PM
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Thanks Jan, I will definitely give it a closer look.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 03:37 PM
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@jguilty13 2 blade Bronze 37mm.

Also I had to fit a new FSD 2881kv motor to mine, the motor fried...didn't turn the jacket round so the 'out' was at the side...not the top

regards
rjk
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 12:58 PM
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All finished, every piece is stock, getting ready to go and test it now, it just stopped raining.

Couple of questions and statements:

1. Does the spacing look good between my washer and prop?
2. Do I need to adjust the angle on my prop/shaft housing it seems to be set at 0.
3. I had no leaks but the drill bit they used for the water hose hole into the craft left it kind of jagged on the inside so I just used a small amount of plumbers putty to make me feel better. Decided on this instead of silicon because I will probably replace it. And plumbers putty works great!
4. I see some posted that the water casing should have the out port directly on top. I tried like hell to move that thing with a drop of oil on each end, no luck, I will have to take it out but not today. I won't be running it hard today anyhow.
5. I don't think my prop housing or my rudder arm are perfectly straight behind the boat, will this matter?

Thanks in advance and thanks for all the tips so far.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 09:53 PM
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JGuilty,/ jan you are so right..... very happy with this boat. Its very smooth great handling even without turning fins and im not even looking for trim tabs. This is a great first boat for a new :FE boater. Ran it as depicted in my photos above, no issues except of my own design. After a minor adjustment ran it for 3 runs today on a hyperion 3s 35C 11.1v 3300mAH. This was the best battery my local hobby shop carried. I will be getting a few more batteries and a metal prop and move the water sleeve so the out port is on top per Jan's advice. Took some video will get it up on youtube if i can.
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 09:38 AM
Boaters are nice people.
Sneek, Netherlands.
Joined May 2004
4,927 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shoc RC View Post
All finished, every piece is stock, getting ready to go and test it now, it just stopped raining.

Couple of questions and statements:

1. Does the spacing look good between my washer and prop?
2. Do I need to adjust the angle on my prop/shaft housing it seems to be set at 0.
3. I had no leaks but the drill bit they used for the water hose hole into the craft left it kind of jagged on the inside so I just used a small amount of plumbers putty to make me feel better. Decided on this instead of silicon because I will probably replace it. And plumbers putty works great!
4. I see some posted that the water casing should have the out port directly on top. I tried like hell to move that thing with a drop of oil on each end, no luck, I will have to take it out but not today. I won't be running it hard today anyhow.
5. I don't think my prop housing or my rudder arm are perfectly straight behind the boat, will this matter?
Hi Shoc,

1) Looks good, if the motor isn't bogged down when the boat runs full throttle it's fine. If it bogs down, widen the gap a smidge.

2) No, only if you experience porpoising, or extreme nose up running, you'll need to adjust the angle, maybe the new prop will have other (lifting) charactaristics and adjustment may be needed.

3) On my Chinese boats I glue in a piece of 4 mm brass of aluminum pipe with epoxy and fit the silicon tube on each end on the inside and outside, no chance of a leak there.

4) The o-rings will have set/hardened on the can and jacket and will be hard to move/turn without damage, be careful and/or get a set of spare o-rings in case these break.

5) These boats are mass produced, using vinylester (which cures quicker than polyester, but remains softer) pulling the hull from the mold when still fresh, instead of letting them harden properly.
This causes flat surfaces to get out of shape, as you can see at the bottom and the transom, where the running hardware is bolted on.

On my boats I offset the drivetrain to the right (starboard) side of the hull to counteract propwalk by 4-5 mm, depending on the hull and the power installed.

If it's only the stinger (holding the propshaft and prop) that's a little out of place and the boat runs fine, don't worry.
If you're contemplating upgrades and install more power, little inaccuracies in mounting the hardware may become noticable in the running attitude.
Than is the time to correct the position of the hardware.

If the rudder is mounted too crooked, the effects can be much more severe and are very noticable, making the boat run on one side when getting on the plane, or big differences in turns left and right, beyond the normal differences of a single prop boat (righthand turns will be narrower than left hand turns, due to the effect of the propwalk).

The angle of the rudder compared to the waterline (when running) is also important; when the ruddeblade is tucked in (the bottom tip pointing forward) the blade will pull dow the stern and lift the bow when the boat makes a turn.
When the blad points to the back, it'll lift the stern and push down the bow when making a turn.
The latter can cause spinning out in turns.

Regards, Jan.
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 12:12 PM
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Thanks Jan appreciate your time, very helpful info.

Here is the 3rd run on my first day taking her out yesterday, was awesome. First two runs seemed a bit faster but I dunno, maybe the battery was not peak after charging it. Oh and it was my 6yo on the camera so sorry for a bit of unsteadiness.

Exceed (dragon snap) 720 EP first run all stock (2 min 25 sec)
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 03:00 PM
Boaters are nice people.
Sneek, Netherlands.
Joined May 2004
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Hi Shoc,

Nice camerawork from your son, compliments!

The boat seems a bit tailheavy, where does it balance on two fingertips?

The CoG should be at 28-30% of the hull length, measured from the transom (for your boat it's not the overhang at the rear, but the actual end of the bottom section).
Play with the position of the battery to get the best speed and runtime.

I assume you know that after each day of running the boat, the flexshaft should be removed, dried and regreased?

After two runs most of the lubricant will be gone, so maybe that caused the boat to run slower than the previous runs.

The boat runs very nice in the video, good speed for a beginner.

Regards, Jan.
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Old Sep 03, 2012, 06:25 PM
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Thanks again Jan. I will figure out the CoG but there is not a lot of wiggle room since they mounted the battery on the left side of the craft. Scooting it up is about the only thing I can do unless I put another platform in there.

Jan or F1, I would like to talk future....F1 recommends 2850 1800-2200kv motor. I am looking at motors, but not exactly sure what I am looking at, frankly they confuse the heck out of me. I get the first number 2850 = 28mm diameter and 50mm long then it all goes south from there.

How do we pick what is a good size.
1. From my research it looks like a 3674 would be pretty good for faster speeds but Im not just looknig for speed, looking for longer run times as well.
2. Then the Kv rating, this just confuses me. So no matter what it looks like I want to keep the KV rating between say 1800 and 2200kv. What does all that mean? It looks like the lower Kv the better?
3. I notice in a lot of boats folks have 2 batteries rigged up in series, whats that about, I'm currently only using one. Obviously more power but then I guess you need a motor that can handle that, or is it all about the speed controller. Going to go with a 120 ESC I think, that should do it for what I need.

4. When I upgrade all the electronics, I guess I will have to upgrade the entire stinger and maybe switch to a 3/16 at that time?
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 09:32 AM
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United States, MI, Royal Oak
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Shoc, glad to see you enjoy the boat, Im loving mine! Ive probably got a good twenty runs on mine so far with no issues at all. I tried to turn the motor cooling jacket so that the exit hole was on top, but she didnt want to budge. I think I will try taking the motor out and repositioning it with the hole on top instead of just twisting the jacket.

Ive added a few LEDs to the front of mine so that I can rip it around at night on the lake behind my apartment....its pretty sweet lol. I would also be interested in a possible upgrade to the motor....I know the stock motors will most likely have a shorter life span than a good upgrade.

I would want an upgraded motor for my 3s packs, aluminum motor cooling jacket, and I wouldn't want to have to upgrade the "drive dog" or whatever its called lol. Im more than content with this model for now though....
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 01:27 PM
Boaters are nice people.
Sneek, Netherlands.
Joined May 2004
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Hi Jordan & Shoc,

Would you be so kind as to measure the actual hull length that is in the water (overall hull length minus the overhang)?
And while you're at it, the beam on the bottom of the hull (which is narrower than at the deck)?

You'll find the hull is rather short and narrow, hence the high revving propulsion choice.
With a 36 mm motor (and the bigger prop that comes with it) you'll suffer massive torque issues.

I'll await your measurements and make some motorsuggestions accordingly.

Regards, Jan.
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 02:22 PM
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I greatly appreciate your input Jan, Ill get the measurements posted tonight when I get home.

I see that the stock motor is $50, for that price Id rather get a slightly better quality motor. It's a B2848-2636KV. Can you think of any drop in replacements for this motor that may be a bit better quality? Anything that has built in cooling or would a separate cooling jacket be mandatory?

Just found this boat for a much cheaper price, but cant figure out how to add it to the cart! I was thinking of getting the 650mm Exceed RC Catamaran too...
http://total-hobbies.com/99b-10022-s...0-ep-artr.html
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 04:14 PM
Boaters are nice people.
Sneek, Netherlands.
Joined May 2004
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Possible candidates:

Lots of rpm (30.000) on 3S and torquey:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...00kv_400w.html
Finding a fitting collet for the 3 mm motorshaft could be an issue.

Maybe on the edge:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Inrunner.html
Only marginally more rpm, but much (!) more torque, so a bigger prop isn't a problem (for the motor), ther may be torque issues with the hull.

With nearly 36000 rpm under load, boarding on undrivable with the stock propsize (requires a metal prop though):
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Inrunner.html

The longest version of this watercooled series, with 32000 rpm under load right in the ballpark:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...tor_Boat_.html
Again, the goofy 3 mm shaft.

I'm running the 3700Kv version on 2S in a 50 cm monohull and it's ballistic (and often upside down).

Please compare the specs, regarding the max Wattage and the ESC requirements.

Regards, Jan.
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 05:38 PM
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Guys, check out this website, very cool tools to utilize in regards to motors ect...

http://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/ElectricBoat/index.php

I want to stay away from those .03 shafts, seem like a real hassle, the reviews had a lot of complaints about no flat side on the shaft and a couple that say the drive actually snapped off. I think I am going to stay with the other motors.

Here are a few websites with choices:

http://www.hobbypartz.com/motorsforboats.html

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/categories.php?cat=14

I am leaning toward leopard motors, seems like quality without breaking the bank. I guess Tacon are not bad either, looking for best bang for the buck, don't want to break the bank on my starter boat, lol.

Will try to get the measurements tonight, Jan.
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 07:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JGuilty13 View Post
I greatly appreciate your input Jan, Ill get the measurements posted tonight when I get home.

I see that the stock motor is $50, for that price Id rather get a slightly better quality motor. It's a B2848-2636KV. Can you think of any drop in replacements for this motor that may be a bit better quality? Anything that has built in cooling or would a separate cooling jacket be mandatory?

Just found this boat for a much cheaper price, but cant figure out how to add it to the cart! I was thinking of getting the 650mm Exceed RC Catamaran too...
http://total-hobbies.com/99b-10022-s...0-ep-artr.html
Stay away from this site. It's a fake site per NitroRcx.
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