This pic shows why everything - loaded guns, deck furniture, chainrails, etc. needs to be epoxied, pinned, and really waterproof.
The plywood chainrails need bulletproof waterproofing. Solid hardwood would be better. Plastic maybe best?

Speaking of waterproofing Dan, what did you use to waterproof your deck? I assume this should be done before the first waterproof checks.

Hi Andrew

Haven't decided on the channels yet but want to keep the hull moving along. As I move forward, positioned the catheads(yet to be detailed) so I can work out what I want to do on the head of the ship. The profile is slightly different on the plans as meatbomber pointed out so I am looking at the necessary modification. A few dilemmas...It is always hard to draw the line on just how far to take the accuracy vs. practicality vs. simplicity. Its a curse. However, because the head of the ship is such an iconic area of every ship, I think I will be reworking it completely in both head profile and rails. The compromise will be at the cat heads as I will use the existing ones and simply "fakerize" the rail that sweeps up into it. Instead of sweeping up into the actual support, I'll bring it in front as on some frigates. This way it will have that period look. I wasn't sure this was a mod I wanted to do but after seeing the two, I think the new profile has more 'character' and life to it. Since I will not have a figurehead on my brig, having this part look detailed is important.

Heres a quick drawing showing the difference. (again, what meatbomber pointed out earlier) Thanks MB


and heres a photoshop comparison.


I have played around with how to use the existing rails for a long time and may still use them but in order to get some of the sweeps I need, it may require too much rework and therefore creating new ones might actually be easier. we'll see.

tim

Some pictures with catheads temporarily in position.





tim

Looking good!
Tim, look at Plastruct website, online catalog:
http://www.plastruct.com/Pages/Catalog.html#DL

Look at Structural Shapes, pg5 of the PDF: Traditional ABS Channels. See Item C6.
I think that's the size I used to modify/add to my headrails. The profile of the proper sized channel very closely matches the SC&H headrail profile, so it can be "grafted" in where needed. A little heat gun application and it can be bent to nice curved shapes.

Andrew: deck waterproof was numerous coats of spray can Krylon satin clear, with special attention to hatch edges. Sand lightly between coats. I don't think the same formula is available anymore (new formula is "greener".) You can paint on 3-4 coats of thinned epoxy, sanding lightly between coats.

Thanks Dan

Roughed out the new shape for the ships head. Still some finessing and clean up to do but good enough to start planning the rails. Happy with the look. Also positioned the channels and step cleats on the starboard side and drilled out the rudder's hole.

With existing rails


Without




Here's the basic, rough idea of what the new rails will look like. More soon on them. (No Hawse holes or bolsters show)


tim

Wow looking good Tim. Reminds me of some medieval ax waiting to chop apart any privateer that gets too close.

ha ha...thanks Andrew. I thought it had some nice 'attitude' but couldn't put my finger on why. Medieval axe! that must be it.

Some more parts. I'll make some wheels and detail out some carriages soon as well as get the holes cut for the blocks.

6 pounder carriages












blocks for the hull




tim

next, you'll be making your own kits

Yes Yancovitch I can see it now: Tim Bowman's everything-you-need masterpiece kit for the HMS Lively. Might order one myself...

Hi Vic and Andrew

I'll leave the kits to the experts.

Spent some time making a pattern for the headrails over and over again to get them to look right. In order to get them to look the way I wanted, I realized I needed to change the catheads to more like they are on the Cruiser class plans. An earlier look for the cathead knees that I really think makes warships of this period. Here's where I'm at. I'll check and double check and then have the parts made. The rails will be blended with the cathead knees when everything is attached. Haven't decided whether or not I'll keep the reliefs in the rails or not or make that detail differently.



The rails


The catheads


tim

Tim your work is beautiful! Would you share how you plastic parts are made ? are they printed? would it be possible to get some

Hello MB

Thank you for the kind words.

The parts are made from 3D files I draw on my computer. Once I have it drawn in scale and everything is as accurate as I can get it, the files are used to create 3D parts. A lot of people refer to it as "printing the part" but this is not accurate for these. These are done using an SLA machine which is a higher quality then a "3D printer" Two totally different processes. One squirts rod material to build the part(3D printing) and one uses laser to solidify material from liquid(SLA).

For a better explanation then I can write, here's a link to both.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stereolithography

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/3D_printing

These days, you can even do metal parts in most metals(using a similar, but different method)!!

crazy!

Here's one of the fixed blocks temporarily in position on the hull side.




and a 6 pounder with some hardware added. Long way to go on these but I just couldn't wait. They'll be properly painted and weathered later on.


Will take some more photos after the wheels are made.

At the moment I'm not planning on reproducing or selling any parts. Unfortunately, it's just not cost effective. But depending on which ones you are after, I'm happy to talk to you about it.


happy sailing
tim

I agree Tim, money is overrated. The only reason to make, say, two extra 6 pounder bow chasers for the Theresa Marie would be for something more meaningful and enduring. Such as...

ha ha Andrew! Too funny. Like his nickname. : )

Here's some photos of the three blocks positioned on the larboard side.











Also, I have been building a chart for scale rigging. Both tarred and cotton twine shown with diameters and what that translates to in 1:24 scale. Will continue to build this as I get more types and sizes.


tim