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Old Oct 13, 2012, 10:52 AM
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JerryTodd's Avatar
United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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Tim,
Don't forget to make an additional 20 carronades for your frigate

Hmmm, I think I've seen that Lacedaemonian image before
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 11:00 PM
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TBowman's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
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Jerry...will do. : ) Might actually be more, as a friend may build one too.

Your Macadonian is looking fantastic! So very good. The gun ports look awesome!

Dan...My thought on the removable breech was because I had planned on using electronic matches as a simple ignition. So replacing the wire between usages as well as maintenance was the thinking behind that. Some other igniters I have work for repeated uses so I'll play around with those as well.

At the moment, I'm just having fun. Like I said, I know this is old ground that has been thoroughly covered but I wanted to have some fun with it. Hoping we can maybe work together on the ultimate solution for our models.

best regards
Tim
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Old Oct 16, 2012, 06:46 AM
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United States, MN, Brainerd
Joined Oct 2004
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Tim,
Sorry - didn't mean to limit fun or creativity - I'm way too focused on the particulars of the Syren system. I'm sure there are many great new ideas and approaches for firing guns, etc etc.
Again, your designs and drawings are spectacular. Keep them coming.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 02:49 PM
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United States, CA, San Jose
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Hi Dan

No apology necessary.

More progress on the hull.

Scribed the port side, planking and then added the strake detail. They are very subtle with the primer on them so I may deepen them a bit. They show up better in person then they do in these photos. Afraid of over doing them. : /

Detailing the catheads and cleaning up the channels is next so I can get those fastened to the hull. I'll be making functional fixed blocks that will be placed into the hull/bulwark but need to finalize positioning. Also, the step cleats will be positioned.









Tim
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 10:16 PM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Nov 2010
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Nice detail addition Tim. I added a sheer rail and waist rail to my Beagle, but hadn't thought to do it on this model for some reason. What size and material did you use, and what type of glue?

Was there a particular reason you picked grey for a primer coat? I've never painted anything fiberglass before so this is new territory.

BTW I get the feeling our two brigs are going to be about as different looking as possible.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 10:01 AM
SCALE Sailor
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United States, MD, Severna Park
Joined Apr 2008
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Fiberglass is actually a brand name - the process is Glass Reenforced Plastic (GRP). The glass cloth is like the rebar in concrete - giving strength to an otherwise brittle structure. In the end, it's just plastic and any paint made for plastics will work. The issue is usually paints reacting with each other. You wouldn't want to spray lacquer over a latex primer for instance.
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 10:29 AM
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Hi Andrew

I went back and forth for two days on how big I wanted this strip to be and whether I was going to use wood or plastic. In the end, I used styrene 2.5X3.0mm strips. They are bonded on using CA. I started with epoxy but I'm not patient enough and it wasn't giving me a clean result. Used a strip of wood the size of my planking for a jig I clamped against the top rail and then glued each piece in position while pushing it up, against the jig too.

As far as the grey primer goes? I started with black but I found while working on my tanks, the lighter grey is much easier to see things with(things that need cleaning up etc.). So, I decided to go the same way with this ship. It will be detailed and primered with grey before final paint.

The main thing with our models, and the only thing I would add to Jerry's comments is that these came out of a mold. There is usually a mold-release used that sometimes remains on the gelcoat surface(although mine appeared clean as can be) so whatever primer you use, be sure to clean, as needed, and sand the hull before paint. This will ensure adhesion of your first coat and therefore the subsequent coats of paint. Hitting it with a 320 or 220 paper or something like should be sufficient.

It's good we will have different ships. That's what makes these models from Philip so great. Everyone adds their own personality to it so they are all different even though they come from the exact same kit. Makes each one we see on this forum interesting to look at. In my humble opinion

Looking forward to getting more parts onto the hull!!

tim
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 04:56 PM
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Added the finger-hold to the step cleats.





more soon
tim
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Old Oct 18, 2012, 10:38 PM
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Cool tools. Steps...be sure to use pins when attaching them.
Sewing machine in earlier pics....for the sails????
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 09:13 AM
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sheesh......this guy's hot....i was never able to do such accurate details.......
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Old Oct 22, 2012, 09:08 PM
Paratrooper
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Eubank Kentucky
Joined Nov 2007
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Your steps look great and take Dan's advice seriously. I did not pin some of my details and finding them in the lake is impossible. Everything that is mounted to the hull or deck with glue only will eventually find its way to Davie Jones and that locker he keeps of all the stuff he finds on the bottom.

I did not pin the arms on some of my crew figures and two of them were one armed and the figure head on the bow ended up without arms on the same day. Every detail after that expensive lesson became part of the ship with a brass rod pin in every part that could come off.

Your ship really looks great and it will sail very impressively.

AIRBORNE!
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 07:21 AM
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United States, IN, Indianapolis
Joined Nov 2010
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Nothing like a gory story from an airborne vet to impress upon you the need for brass pins on your model ship. I was debating it, but now I'm voting for pins all the way. Thanks Ray.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 11:00 AM
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Thanks for the comments and advice everyone. Will pin/fasten everything.

I noticed on my steps that the back surface is not 90 degrees to the step's top surface. All the reference photos I could find show them sitting pretty much parallel with the water. Mine sit at an angle when placed against the hull. So as I rethink the steps, I'm working on the catheads and channels. Also getting the nerve up to add all the pegs on the deck.


kind regards
Tim

Thank you for your service Ray!
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 03:34 PM
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the channels are plywood. they are constantly soaked and exposed to chafing/chipping/abrasion. mine delaminated a bit - i had to refurbish them.
best to treat them with an epoxy soak to waterproof them before painting and mounting.

epoxy soak: thoroughly mix 15 min epoxy, then slowly stir in a small amount of denatured alcohol (not isopropyl alcohol) until you have thin, milky fluid. make sure all the epoxy is dissolved into the alcohol. soak the wood parts (after all holes drilled, etc) in the solution, letting the wood absorb the liquid. remove and let the pieces dry. very lightly sand to smooth the surface before final finishing. you can also paint on additional coats of thinned epoxy.
i did this to many of the wood parts, especially the plywood ones.
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Old Oct 23, 2012, 04:11 PM
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Thanks very much Dan for the tip

Frustrated with the steps so here's my revised steps I'll have made along with some other parts. They are based off a simpler design on HMS Rose as opposed to the fancy versions on HMS Victory.



tim
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