Tim,
I'll review posts - had all the brace pull lengths, etc measured and the servo movement calculated and measured on a mock up.
Linear would work great. Would have to offset servos as the travel L is greater than the servo spacing.
Rough diagram attached.

See this post on sliding servo. It worked really well in teh floor mock-up.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=217

I just may tear out Syrens guts and redesign servo layout instead of trying to figure the easiest mod of teh present setup.

I think the slide-in-a-track idea is a good idea. It may take more space, fore-n-aft, but I think you have the space available. The pivot version will create a side pulling force that bears on the pivot point trying to pull the servo over, the structure you'd need to counter that will create friction that would affect it's smooth operation. The linear track at worst would require a slippery bearing opposite the pull in the form of Teflon or roller bearings where the servo would try to lift against the track. In either case the servo ought to mount through the rig so everything is at the level of it's mounting wings instead of sitting on it's bottom. ie: get the CE up higher on the servo.

The servo could be sprung directly to the center of the mount or a small pulley could turn a cord to a spring mounted elsewhere in the hull.

I'd suggest the track system be removable from whatever it's mounted on as a unit so you could access it from underneath instead of trying to manipulate things between rails and servos.

Tim, I'd love that offer, let me know the price tag when it's feasible - Macedonian would look great with such a fine set of teeth.

Here's what I was thinking for an insert that replaces the ren-board blocks. It would straddle the delrin blocks that the masts are stepped onto and would be as long as possible while allowing clearance for all parts. Travel distance as drawn is approx. 75mm (3 inches). Can be increased by lengthening the track openings. I think my winches are too big diameter.

Components

1- formed aluminum piece with mounting points and tracks milled into it
2- Delrin servo sliders (X4) These are what capture the drum servos into the tracks
3- Eyebolt (X2) fasten upside-down so the ey sits below the top of the insert) OR Spring simply hooks through hole at top eliminating the need for eyebolts.
4- Spring (X2) fasten to delrin slider on one end and eyebolt on the other







the sides of the insert could be a nice place to neatly mount other electronics. In my case, possible switches for the gun ignition.

Assembly is simple and the whole assembly can be removed for servicing(if needed)

Had to get it out of my system.


Hi Jerry

Will happily keep you up to date on any gun development.

Tim

Wish I was just starting to build now and following your lead....
Very nice design concept.

I know that you know....just some additional bits....
- The drums require 4 stacked tracks of two different diameters. That adds height that needs to be designed in. Diametser can be much smaller if tension is controlled and guides for brace travel into teh drum are added.
- Another servo for the headsails, if you take that approach, is needed up front.
- If a headsail servo is used, the center servo for teh spanker needs only one arm.
- You may need about 4.5 inches of travel on the mainmast servo and a bit less on the fore based on my posted test results.

Dan, why don`t you build the Snake i know you would like to !

Yes Dan...build another model of HMS Snake!! That'd be great!

This is for Andrew
1/4 pounder swivel gun





Base is too tall but I'll fix that. Have also been working on the layout fo rthe servos etc, under the deck. Got too confused so I did the swivel gun instead.

This thing is TINY! Only 35.8mm long!(not including the handle)

tim

Tim,
Can't build the Snake...too busy watching the new builds and I don't have a magic laser machine (or the ability to draw for it...)
meatbomber - do you have Snake plans??? (Oh, oh....)

Suggestion...design the exact rigging plan before planning/installing the servos.
Things like drum track diameters, drum rim diameters, necessary slack travel, separate headsail servo?, rudder rigging, etc will define servo setup.

well plans i have to take over the world *insert evil laugh*!!
Of course i have Snake plans too... i`m gonna keep slowly building on the small one to get myself into the mood again for the large one i`m kind of stuck with the Hatch modification on the large one and how to layout the sail control system..

Tim you are amazingly fast with those 3D drawings... do you ever sleep ? does your spouse still know what you look like ?

ha ha...

Dan, some of us need magic machines to build a brig as nice as yours.

meatbomber, ha ha...I do sleep, and I do spend time with my wife and kids.

Here's as far as I made it before moving on to the swivel gun. I constructed the interior components of the model to build around. Started making a mock-up with some mat board as well. The too on the main servo tray is definitely not enough for the sliding tracks once the headsail servo is in position.





Nothing is even close to finalized, only trying to get the components in place. as Dan suggests, I'll make a table layout as best I can, out of the model to prove things out first.

more on this later

tim

Oh No, My Head Just Exploded.

Mine too!

Tim, here's an idea...
Don't actually build your kit....create a virtual build and finished ship sailing!!

Your posts are habit forming entertainment. Love it!

ps - then you can send me your actual kit and I'll send you a virtual thank you note.

To get more slide room -
- try mounting headsail servo transversely, make OD of drom a bit smaller and move it forward
- mount the spanker servo transversely and/or mount it low enough for the fore and main drums to overhang it and simply extend the shaft tower up high enough to allow clearance of the swing arm above the F&M servo drums.
- offset servos laterally to allow slide-by?
- mount the rudder servo transversely and mount it just ahead of the mainmast. Behind the mast is too little access.
- in the space behind the mainmast, leave room for the battery. I think you may end up moving it back there. If you do, you need access. My deck cabin plan allowed me to open the deck behind the mainmast for easy battery access (batt just fits thru L&W)

some quick pics...

Looking good Tim. I'm sticking with the SC&H specs for the servos and running rigging since I don't think I have the skill/experience/patience to custom build a whole new system. It'll be fun watching your engineering project progress.

Oh, but 1/4 pounders? I think the Theresa Marie will need at least one-pounders (1 1/2 inch) so we can ward off those pesky British Scorpion boarders.

Hi Gary

My head exploded doing that interior stuff with so many unknowns. LOL

OK Dan, I'll get back to real building.

Andrew, "pesky British" the Royal Navy keeping the seas safe for hundreds of years!! LOL

happy Thanksgiving all
Tim