not to mention...the photography is so well done........

Originally Posted by yancovitch

not to mention...the photography is so well done........

I´m fascinated too.

What I wanted to ask:
Whats the size/height/length of the guns and ´panzerfaust´?
Thanks for any informations!

Hi disabled

Here's basic dimensions from the parts I drew, shown assembled. No hardware is shown in the drawing.



kind regards
Tim

Andrew,

Here's a 1:6 scale Panzerschreck (not to be confused with Panzerfaust) I repainted and weathered awhile back. Meant to be a Normandy veteran piece.









tim

Tim

For a second I thought you were already custom building your own masts and fighting tops. Impressive work being done at the Bowman Armory.

Thank you very much!
Do you maybe also have drawings like these for the bigger cannons -
12, 18 and 24 pounders?
I´ve been searching for a while now and only get more confused -
sizes, heigths and lengths of gunbarrels are different in different books -...
Also the distances between gunports are different -...

And do you know this site?
http://www.pilipili-miniatures.com/

Look, what I just received:

Originally Posted by disabled

Do you maybe also have drawings like these for the bigger cannons -12, 18 and 24 pounders?
:

HI disabled,

I do plan on drawing up 9 and 18 pounder cannons and their carriages.

18 pound cannon (8')barrel length in 1:24 scale is 101.6mm, Largest Diameter at Breech is 21mm

9 pound cannon(7'6") barrel length in 1:24 scale is 95.25mm, Largest Diameter at Breech is 16.25mm

9 pound cannon(7') barrel length in 1:24 scale is 89mm, Largest Diameter at Breech is 16.25mm

Barrel pattern on all three are just like the one I already made, only on steroids.

Your pirate ship being from an earlier time, the guns may have been different. Nice figure.

best regards
Tim

disabled,
There were likely as many variations of barrel dimensions as there were foundries and countries. I've read that many ships of all nations were armed with guns captured from other ships, or bought in various ports around teh world, so it was possible even on a single ship there might have been a variety of guns.
An interesting tidbit I also read is that English iron ore had nickle (I think) or other "contaminants" that made their gun barrels stronger than those of the Spanish, Danes, etc. This difference wasn't recognized at the time, but likely affected the design dimensions of British guns.
So the different dimensions you see in various references are likley accurate based on the particular barrel referenced.

OK, I know this was discussed and I read over Andrew's post several times, so sorry for asking this question.

When gluing the deck hatch frames to both deck parts, is there a reason I can't use Marine Epoxy for both parts (well and seal)? Don't want to do this twice.

Or why not JB Kwik-weld on both parts?

Thanks for any help.
tim

Hey Tim,
Since alignment is so critical, a good first step is to mount the pieces using small
screws as alignment guides and to hold the parts exactly in place as the adhesive sets.
Before gluing, check alignment and fit.
Then glue and rescrew to hold parts in place.
( I used masking tape, but it was a sloppy approach).
For adhesive, JB Quick would be fine, but lately I've been using polyurethane construction sealant on projects. It's rated for complete submersion, remains slightly flexible when cured, and is tenacious as heck. Sticks to almost everything. I've had epoxy and JB come loose from some surfaces when flexed - that's why I abrade or drill perf's. in any non-porous surfaces to be bonded.
I've only seen the polyurethane in caulking tubes, but its cheap and will keep well if the tube is sealed after use.
Takes a long time to set between non-porous surfaces, so likely good for only small area/narrow path bonding.
Hope this helps.
A note: I used a very thin strip of closed cell foam around the edge of the hatch.
Then mounted attachment tabs and use screws to hold down the hatch. Screws are disguised under buckets.


http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...097D67&first=1

Thank you (as always) Dan.

Hope to get the deck ready. Servo mounting holes have been inserted into the blocks. Two drum servos and one kit-supplied servo in the middle position. Will likely follow your lead and design some brackets/guides to mount for the braces. Much more thought needed on this but I am starting to think about it. : )

Should have the headrail and catheads here this coming week. Looking forward to working on that, and then the stern transom detailing.

tim

Tim,
Before you mount the drum servos, figure out your slack compensation. You may want to mount the servos sideways on a pivot arm. Plenty of room for that approach and possibly the simplest way to go for compensation.

I wish you were working in 1:36 - I could use a nice set of 18 pounders and carronades

Out of curiosity Tim, do you plan to add any swivel guns to your model?

Hi Guys

Dan, I'll definitely take a hard look at the servo layout before anything is bonded in place. Could the two drum servos be mounted so they can travel for and aft in a track-like mount instead of pivoting? Springs would mount similar as you have shown but more of a linear layout?

Jerry, once I have the guns drawn, it wouldn't be difficult to scale them down for you and produce some masters for you to mold and cast. Just a thought.

Andrew, Swivel guns have definitely crossed my mind and i have been filling a reference folder with images. Once I settle on a size and style I like, I'll draw them up too.

all the best
Tim