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Old Oct 20, 2012, 03:05 AM
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It really depends on how you do things. I've used a couple dozen presses at a time when I had more than one thing being glued up and sometimes I use them to hold a straightedge down - more often I just surround the straightedge with magnets but sometimes the magnets lift the edge from the board attempting to center it on the magnet.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 01:02 PM
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Good point in that you're using them for supporting other things (structure, straight edges) while using them for glueing. Hmmm...

EJWash
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 01:54 AM
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Finished applying three coats of Watco Danish Oil finish to the presses and pads. I also applied three coats of Minwax Wipe-on Poly (polyurethane) satin finish to the two fixtures that I had previously stained. I am very satisfied with the results.

EJWash
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 02:22 AM
wood is good
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
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Wow! Looooking gooood.

Are the presses attached with wing nuts for quick adjustment?
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 02:57 AM
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I don't know if EJ is using wing nuts, but I converted all my presses to be tool-free.

My original intent was to use blind nuts installed in each press. But when they were hammered in they split the wood because the holes are so close to the end. I found that out after I order 1,000 of them.

But there is a way to do it. Obviously you have to drill out the holes in the presses to receive the T-nuts (blind nuts). But then you also have to drill for the prongs so they slip into place.

Mine stay in place but if they're loose, just a drop of glue anywhere will keep the nuts from falling out because nobody likes it when their nuts fall out.

Brass thumbscrews are kind of expensive and there's not exactly a bazillion choices. Normally the bolts are 5/8" long to thread into a normal hex nut. These thumbscrews are 1/2" long.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 02:57 AM
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LoNslo,

Thanks.

No, the presses are held in place with hex nuts. The distance between the holes is only 1/2". The wings on the wing nut have the chance of interfering with one another when twisted, so you'd have to use an allen wrench on the cap-end to cinch-down the bolt anyway. I'll be using a finger wheel ratchet and 5/16" socket and allen wrench to secure the press bolts.

EJWash
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeenMan View Post
My original intent was to use blind nuts installed in each press. But when they were hammered in they split the wood because the holes are so close to the end. I found that out after I order 1,000 of them.
I wonder if an arbor press would work for setting the blind nuts? No shock (as opposed to a hammer) at all.

EJWash
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 03:10 AM
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No. I took a bunch of rejected presses and tried various methods paying attention to how the prongs were aligned, etc. They can't be pressed in without splitting the wood - at least not on cherry or hard maple. A softer, less brittle wood might work.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 03:11 AM
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By the way, I've never need to use any kind of wrench with the hex nuts. They didn't spin when being tightened for some reason, so only an allen key was needed. That was with the black oxide hardware that is standard with my sets.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 11:44 PM
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Green Bay WI
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Hey guys, can anyone comment on the gauge of steel used for the magnetic systems? That is what do I gain by using 16-18 ga vs 22-24ga (almost half the price).
Thanks!
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 12:01 AM
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CaffeenMan,

I had some Du-Bro 6-32 blind nits on-hand and three rejected (hard maple) presses. My presses measure 5/8" tall, 3/8" wide, and 3" long. After enlarging the holes using an #13 bit, I used my 2-ton arbor press to seat the blind nuts in place. No splitting. As a matter of fact, when I tapped the blind nits out of the rejected presses, the wood chipped at the prongs which indicates a pretty good hold.

Not sure if I'll revisit the presses and install blind nits or not. I just wanted to see if the hard maple would split using the arbor press or not.

EJWash
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:33 AM
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EJ - It has been nearly two years since I was trying to install the T-nuts without drilling so I won't swear to this, but as I recall not all of the presses split - just enough that I couldn't sell them for use with T-nuts because as kits they would not be pre-installed. The owner would finish the presses and then install them. Obviously that means a lot of complaints and returns when they broke.

Do you think an arbor could do that consistently - less than 5% loss due to splitting?

Dubro makes those T-nuts in their own factory. They are the only source of small-pattern 6-32 T-nuts. All others in existence that I've seen are the larger ones you show.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 10:40 AM
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CafeenMan,

Good question since I only arbor-pressed the nuts into three maple presses. No way to come -up with the loss factor. I'd hate to sacrifice any more of my finished presses to find out. Guess I'll "press-on" with using the hex nuts and washers, since I already have them.

EJWash
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 10:44 AM
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You know if you want to use the blind nuts and you don't want to risk it then you still can just drill for the prongs. Just drill for the barrels and then mark the holes using a blind nut and a light tap with a small hammer. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes for the whole deal. A 1/16" bit is larger than necessary but if you don't have number drills that's as close as you're going to get with fractional bits.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeenMan View Post
No. I took a bunch of rejected presses and tried various methods paying attention to how the prongs were aligned, etc. They can't be pressed in without splitting the wood - at least not on cherry or hard maple. A softer, less brittle wood might work.
Flatten or grinD off the spike prongs and install with a drop or two of crazy glue? Maybe epoxy? Perhaps leaving one prong still active? Hole should be accurate or a very light interferance fit.
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