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Old Oct 19, 2012, 11:05 AM
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Thanks CafeenMan.

As far as drilling and taping the guide bar, I decided on an 8" on-center spacing between mounting holes. I measured, scribed, and center-punched the hole locations. In the case of this jig, I routed slots in the bas of the jig so minute adjustments could be made at the router bit when the press rabbets were milled. There is no way I could have fabricated a jig that would have given me the exact amount of material removal needed.

EJWash
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 11:09 AM
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I did sort of the same thing but more universal. I based it loosely on a router table tenon jig. Instead of riding in the miter slot it has a guide that rides against the fence. Then I can adjust the fence by 0.001" at a time to get it dead on.

I also route entire boards and then separate them into individual pieces. I make about 1,600 at a time so doing them one at a time isn't much of an option if I ever want to do anything else with my life.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 11:11 AM
wood is good
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeenMan View Post
Yeah, but still you have to drill through pre-tapped holes and there's just something fundamentally wrong with that. Unless you have a milling machine with a very accurate compound table then it's just a lot easier to drill through both at the same time and it gives better results. No matter what you do something is going to shift if you try to match holes you drill to pre-drilled holes.
Uh, no there isn't.

By choosing the right size Vix bit, the drill never even gets close to the tapped threads, the non-turning, self-centering housing being the only part that comes in contact with the threads.

It isn't foolproof but it is very good for matching holes, especially countersunk holes, where there is no adjustability.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 11:15 AM
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Photos of the jig and vertical press blanks being separated.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by loNslo View Post
Uh, no there isn't.

By choosing the right size Vix bit, the drill never even gets close to the tapped threads, the non-turning, self-centering housing being the only part that comes in contact with the threads.

It isn't foolproof but it is very good for matching holes, especially countersunk holes, where there is no adjustability.
I have a set of those bits and that's about the only thing I use them for - matching counter-sunk holes and sometimes plain holes with thin materials.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 12:01 PM
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I also route entire boards and then separate them into individual pieces. I make about 1,600 at a time so doing them one at a time isn't much of an option if I ever want to do anything else with my life.
Milling the wood goes pretty fast. The time consumption is coming-up with and fabricating the jigs. Once I got the jig built, it took me :30-:45 minutes to rout the presses.

I thought about milling the press rabbet in wider stock and separating the presses like you did, however I did not want to loose the 3/32" kerf to sawdust very pass. My process took more time, but I'm not in production like you. This a a one-shop-only project for me.

Boy, taping 1,600 presses must be fun!

EJWash
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 12:18 PM
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A drill and a tapping jig makes it go pretty fast.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeenMan View Post
A drill and a tapping jig makes it go pretty fast.
HA! You're KILLING me!

Only 23, it'll go by...

EJWash
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 07:50 PM
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All twenty-three (23) presses are taped, sanded, and ready for finishing.

Thought I'd take inventory of what I've got wood-wise...

CafeenMan,

I'm at the point that I'm finished with the fixtures and presses. Being that you designed them out of necessity, what feedback do you have as far as their part in one of your builds, please.

EJWash
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 09:03 PM
wood is good
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Very pretty work.
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 12:54 AM
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Something I've been meaning to prototype is clamp pads that are cross-dadoed. The reason is so they don't slip from the top of formers when you use a vertical press to hold them down.

I figure 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" and 3/8" should cover it. It's not absolutely necessary but would be nice. Obviously the slots will need to be a little bigger than than the part and since plywood isn't the thickness it is claimed to be then 1/8" actual would be fine for 1/8" plywood but not for 1/8" balsa which is usually a little thicker than 1/8" (could be wrong about that - haven't measured any balsa for a while).

I use vertical presses to hold spars and thus the entire wing down. Usually one at each end of the panel and some in between the ribs.

Any time you need to laminate a small part like a block on a fuselage side is a good use fo the presses if you're doing it when the sides are flat on the board rather than when they're up and being joined to formers.

Go through the gallery on my site and you can see pretty much what I do with my system.

I also use the fixtures on my drill press. For example, I had to drill a hole in the end of a long piece of stock so I swung the table out of the way and then used fixtures to hold the part to the drill press base (cast iron). Worked very well.

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/gallery_of_models/
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 01:00 AM
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All the hardwood parts of my sets are always good hardwood but I do change it up. The first vertical presses I made were from hard maple. The ones included now are cherry. This is from my set but I pulled it from stcok and finished it with two or three coats of boiled linseed oil.

I'm also discontinuing the thumbscrews. They're cheap and not all that great to use if you have to spin the bolt in or out significantly.

The new ones are black oxide hex bolts about 3/8" shorter but still leaving no gaps in clamping range.

I'd love to just include those brass thumbscrews but they are very expensive and would raise the price of sets a lot.

Originally they were 2-3/4" long but that was when I had the old system with only one vertical press mounting position. They're a little ungainly so I reserve them for use with the bridges and have shorter ones for the vertical presses (1-3/4").
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 01:10 AM
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LoNslo,

Thank you!

CafeenMan,

I didn't word my question very well, sorry. What I meant to ask was if you've has a chance to use your bridges, bridge presses and bridge piers in a build yet. Being that you designed them out of necessity, what feedback do you have as far as their part in one of your builds, please.

Thanks!

EJWash
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 01:17 AM
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Ej - No, I designed them because it ocurred to me and I thought they were cool. No use for them so far and that's what I tell people who want to order my stuff and ask about them. I'm going to be building a roof for a large steam tractor a friend of mine is building and I think they'll be very handy for clamping the sheet (1/32" or 1/16" ply) over curved formers since there is no way to get any other kind of clamp in there except weight (which may be what I use if the bridges don't get it done).

More often than not I talk people out of buying bridges and so far nobody who has purchased them has said a word about using them for anything. So frankly, unless you know what you'll use them for I wouldn't spend a lot of time making them unless you just want to.

I have a ton of my own bridges that as everything else are all solid hardwood - hard maple and cherry up to I think 51" overall (49" capacity).
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Old Oct 20, 2012, 01:35 AM
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CafeenMan,

Thank you.

I think that I mentioned that when I selected the fixture sizes that I was envisioning the sizes of the models that I have in my queue, and where (and how tall) I would need support. I have some 1/4-scale builds, thus the taller fixtures.

I think at this point I have enough fixtures and presses to get me started. I won't know if I need more of a certain size fixture until I get started building. As far as presses, I really can't see putting more than 8-10 (?) in service at one given time, being that they'll be used to hold glued parts together to cure.

Well, on to the table!

EJWash
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