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Old Oct 13, 2012, 07:49 AM
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Florida
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EJ - You didn't think you were done yet did you?

The fixture is from my website set. The fixtures I actually use are Sapele. This is one of the new accessories I'll be releasing as soon as I get all the administrative stuff done. The parts are made but I need to take all the photos, write the instructions, update the website etc.

The rotating clamp jaw is three pieces of cherry that the customer has to assemble. I may do assembly but I won't be doing any finishing. This is three coats of boiled linseed oil.

The adapter is also cherry but I think only two coats of oil. I will be including a self-adhesive thin foam rubber pad to prevent slippage.

Anyway, you need to get to it. I have lots more stuff that nobody has seen yet. In fact, other than friends who stop by the shop, you're the first to see these.

(I probably should have dusted the parts first. Amazing what shows up in photos that you don't notice when you're taking them.)
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 09:20 AM
wood is good
loNslo's Avatar
United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
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...I probably should have dusted the parts first...
My whole shop is like that (dusty).
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Old Oct 13, 2012, 05:50 PM
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Joined Mar 2008
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NICE! Looks like you're putting your Incra jigs to work?

Getting ready to cut the bridge press caps. Looks like you have some made of both 3/16" & 1/8"? Am I seeing that right?

I cut the bridge press cores 1-1/4" wide and they extend a *hair* below the 1" wide bridge.

EJWash
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 06:48 AM
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United States, NJ, Carteret
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Ejwash1 pictures please I have been building my fixtures from them. Building I have notice is like a drug the more you do it the more you want. I'm new to all this but it's great. Caffeenman you too. Thank you guys for all your great ideas.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 06:57 AM
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Florida
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Hi EJ. No Incra involved in this except to make the vertical presses which is why I dropped $2K on a router table.

It's 1/8" cherry (actually about 0.130") that is thickness sanded to 1/8" using my Byrnes thickness sander. The adapter is 0.375" square. It has to be because it was an after-thought. The rotating clamp jaws actually go to something else.
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 03:27 PM
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Jerseydog,

I've been posting pics of this project all along. I don't post everyday, because I'm not working on the System everyday. Although, I wish I were!

EJWash
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Old Oct 14, 2012, 10:25 PM
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Ejwash1 no problem sorry.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 12:33 AM
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One area that took a lot of thought were milling the fixture presses. The presses attach to the fixtures and add the feature of making them vertical clamps.

The presses are hard maple and measure 3/8" X 5/8" X 3". There is a fair amount of milling required once the blanks are cut, and in order to achieve exact duplication as possible, of course, more jigs!

This is where my router table came in. Well, sort of. I have been working with a bench-top router table for many years now. I am able to clamp it firmly in place, but its always been a little tall for my taste. I had been wanting to upgrade to a more modern table, so I hit the online catalogs. Right now, floor space is at a premium in my shop, so a floor cabinet-style router table was out of the question. I really didn't want to get another tabletop model because of having to haul it in and out to use my workbench. I had seen some woodworkers make extensions to their table saw to accommodate router tables, but I may as well have a floor model - takes as much space.

I found my answer to my router table situation in Bench Dog, a manufacturer that offer a unique router table. The router table replaces one of the extensions on your table saw. My table saw extensions are cast iron, and the Bench Dog router table is a hefty 55-pound cast iron platform accommodating a drop-in style plate and router motor. I'm not sure how long this table has been around, but I wish I had seen this when it came on the market. I love it!

I spent one day installing the router table on the saw, and another fabricating a jig for the presses. Today I milled and drill the presses. All I have left to do is tap them for the hold-down screws. I ended-up with twenty-six (26) press blanks, and twenty-three (23) when all was said and done. Three (3) went to the "DOH!" pile...

EJWash
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 09:26 AM
wood is good
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
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Very nice work, EJ. You'll get a lot of use from that router table. Looks like it has a handy slide rail, too.

Several decades ago I added an old, cast iron, table saw top to the side of a 10" Unisaw (as an extension) and mounted a 3-1/2 hp Stanley router beneath it. This allows me to use the table saw fence for the router, as well. It's a very practical and indispensable tool that provided me a virtual shaper in the years before I could afford a real one. With a home made aluminum insert, it accepts all but the very largest router bits (for which I simply remove the insert).
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 10:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loNslo View Post
Very nice work, EJ. You'll get a lot of use from that router table. Looks like it has a handy slide rail, too.
Thanks!

The blue rail you see did not come with the router table. Its after-market from Rockler. This aluminum bar is 18"-long, it fits in a 3/4" mitre slot, and is specifically designed to be used for jig applications. Although there are four pre-drilled mounting holes, they were in the wrong place for my application, so I had to drill and tap two others.

EJWash
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 10:25 AM
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The other problem is how do you accurately drill for a pre-tapped hole? I never use those holes either. I just use double-sided tape on a board, then drill and tap and then run it through the table saw or the router table. Ends up perfect.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 10:26 AM
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PS. They do look good!
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 10:30 AM
wood is good
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CafeenMan View Post
The other problem is how do you accurately drill for a pre-tapped hole?...
http://www.garrettwade.com/professio...t;/p/23K01.21/

These are what I use for through holes.
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Old Oct 19, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Yeah, but still you have to drill through pre-tapped holes and there's just something fundamentally wrong with that. Unless you have a milling machine with a very accurate compound table then it's just a lot easier to drill through both at the same time and it gives better results. No matter what you do something is going to shift if you try to match holes you drill to pre-drilled holes.
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