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Old Sep 30, 2012, 11:53 AM
wood is good
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
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For me, more important would be selecting a finish which will hinder the seasonal change of moisture content within the wood and make it easy to clean up glue spills while preventing accidental bonding to model parts without contaminating model surfaces.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 11:56 AM
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Florida
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Well, I've yet to get any glue on my fixtures so I don't worry about that too much. If you want durability then polyurethane is probably the way to go. Then wax the fixtures with a good furniture paste wax.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 01:08 PM
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Points well taken - thanks.

Staining is an art unto itself. A particular stain will penetrate different wood, well, differently, and deliver different results. A particular stain can show more say red in one wood than another. Two different stain on two different words can come out looking very close to one another.

When I laid-out my cutting schedule of the fixtures, I challenged myself to leave as little waste as possible. The result was that I ended-up with several 1/4" to 3/8" 10"-15" strips. I pulled out several stains I have on-hand in my shop and tested them on the scrap strips. I've decided on Minwax's Puritan Pine for the fixtures. It really penetrated well, and it brings-out the grain of the birch. And, being that I'll be banding the building board's edges with oak, I like the match.

Why all this staining and fancy finishing? Maybe it will hide the infractions of my model building!

EJWash
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 12:12 AM
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Bought a length of hard maple to mill the fixtures presses and a few other things.

The fun part of this project is that I am using my acquired woodworking skills into the R/C flying hobby.

I started with a 5' long by 6+" wide X 4/4 (just over 3/4") length of hard maple. The board was cut in half length-wise to two 24+" boards. Each board was fed through my jointer to establish a clean, square edge. Oversize strips were milled using my bandsaw to minimize kerf waste. If I had milled the boards using my table saw, each cut would have consumed a 3/16" kerf as opposed to the 1/32" kerf of the bandsaw. In other words, the table saw -vs- the bandsaw: the table saw creating a 5:1 loss ratio over the bandsaw. The sequence was:

- squaring the board through the jointer/planer
- cutting the (oversized) width through the bandsaw
- squaring the board through the jointer/planer
- repeat...

Of course, I lose a bit of the board when it is re-squared each time after it is fed through the bandsaw.

Now I have to break-out the planer and bring these strips to specification.

EJWash
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 01:59 AM
wood is good
loNslo's Avatar
United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
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That is some really hard material.

I also work back and forth between the table saw and band saw. This often helps to minimize warpage.
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 02:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loNslo View Post
That is some really hard material.
Yeah it is. Feed into the bandsaw was s l o w. Results are good though. Minimum waste was the goal.

EJWash
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 12:50 AM
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Hard maple milled to spec.

Finished the fixture presses feet. Ended-up with 47 of them. No chance of all of them being in use as one time, but now I have enough extras to last a VERY long time.

EJWash
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 04:29 AM
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United States, FL, The Villages
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I bought a kit from him, love them, the last model i built has to be the straightest model i hav ever built thanks to his system. very happy with my purchase.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 07:06 AM
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Florida
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Very nice, EJ. I love working with hard maple. If you have saws that can cut it properly then you get the smoothest wood and it is very hard. It finishes beautifully. I definitely prefer closed-grain woods. That's why my stuff is maple and cherry and never oak or other open grain woods. Just don't like them.

Mike - Thank you for the kudos. I really appreciate it! What did you build?
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 10:47 AM
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CafeenMan,

Thanks.

I like working with hard maple too. It comes out of the planer so nice. Just a couple of passes with the sander and you're done. Tough as steel too!

EJWash
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 10:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikempp View Post
I bought a kit from him, love them, the last model i built has to be the straightest model i hav ever built thanks to his system. very happy with my purchase.
Mike,

How about posting some pics of your System in action?

EJWash
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 12:21 AM
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Milled the bridge press blocks. Ended-up with 24 of them. Probably will never use that many at one time, but here they are...

EJWash
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 06:54 AM
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Don't feel bad. I have about 50 - all cherry or hard maple with clamp pads to go with them. I also made rotating clamp pads and press bolt adapters.
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 08:11 PM
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United States, NJ, Carteret
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Ejwash1 I was wondering do you have a sketch of the jig you made for drilling the holes on the fixtures? I was wondering what are the distance between the holes. I just bought a drill press and will like to put it to good use.
Thanks
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Old Oct 11, 2012, 11:08 PM
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Jerseydog,

No sketches of the jig, but I spaced the press holes 1" on-center.

EJWash
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