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Old Sep 24, 2012, 07:52 AM
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I was about to ask you for a progress update.
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 10:41 AM
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United States, WA, Hoodsport
Joined Mar 2008
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CafeenMan,

Work has been keeping me away from shop-time, so I've only had a few hours on the weekend to work on the system.

Of course, I have to take some time out to decompress as well...

EJWash
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 10:53 AM
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Paying bills and survival are over-rated. I converted my sapele fixtures to the new system. I'm currently under the influence of lacquer. Obey the instructions if you value your brain cells.
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 10:54 AM
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Nice view, by the way. Looks like a nice way to decompress.
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Old Sep 24, 2012, 11:34 PM
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United States, WA, Hoodsport
Joined Mar 2008
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CafeenMan,

You made my day!

I'm picking through my stash of hard maple for the presses. Definetly will have to mill what I have (or stock I will need to buy) to spec. Haven't fired-up the thickness plane in a while...

EJWash
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Old Sep 26, 2012, 10:23 PM
wood is good
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
Joined Jun 2012
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EJ--Tried to answer your PM but your box is full.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 06:21 AM
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Ejwash1
I was wondering how did u build ur torsion box? Do u have any pictures of it before u mounted the sheet on top? I'm going to build one for my but was looking for ideas.
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Old Sep 27, 2012, 01:00 PM
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United States, WA, Hoodsport
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Jerseydog,

I haven't started on my torsion box yet. That will come after I finish the fixtures. I will be using 1/2" MDF for the interior grid and the outter frame. 1/4" MDF for the top and bottom, and I'll use oak to on the outter frame for trim.

If you Google "torsion box", you'll come-up with several designs. There's a few videos, and I find the one by David Marks to be pretty good in content.

EJWash
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 11:37 PM
Geppetto
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United States, CA, San Francisco
Joined Dec 2005
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Magnet

CafeenMan,

I built a set for myself and a fellow builder a few years ago based on your design Paul. I can't thank you enough. And, you are correct that once you utilize them in your projects, the more one uses them, the more you love them. "No going back!"

We built two Trussed Benches to support the 16 gauge sheet metal tops.

EJWash1,

Beautiful work. Your Gig's are as nice as fine furniture. Very Cool!

All the best!

Geppetto
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 01:42 PM
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1stgeppetto
I was wondering how did you build the top were the metal rest on? I'm looking for ideas because I'm limited on tools. I do have a table saw. The size of my sheet of steel is 20"x72". I have a tube of liquid nails will that be good way to attach the steel to table? Some pictures if any of build will be nice
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 09:37 PM
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United States, WA, Hoodsport
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With yet another cue from CafeenMan, I fabricated a jig for sanding the fixtures. I though about just using a sanding mat, but since these pieces are so small, they would gave to rocking under the use of an electric sander.

I had some basswood in my "stash", so I milled 1/8" X 3/8" dividing/isolating strips for the sanding jig. 3/4" MDF was used for the base. Once again, the fixtures are made from 3/16" aircraft grade birch ply, so they stand 1/16" proud of the 1/8" basswood strips. I am able to sand two sizes of each fixture at a time.

I have always believed in having the right quality tools to do the right job. This project is truly a woodworking project and not a modeling project at all. I am fortunate and thankful that I am able to put my shop to work.

EJWash
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Old Sep 29, 2012, 10:27 PM
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United States, WA, Hoodsport
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CafeenMan,

A question.

In your experience with using the System, does a color contrast between the fixtures and the model matter? I'd like to stain the fixtures darker than the birch before applying a coat of varnish or urethane.

EJWash
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 01:21 AM
Geppetto
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United States, CA, San Francisco
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerseydog View Post
1stgeppetto
I was wondering how did you build the top were the metal rest on? I'm looking for ideas because I'm limited on tools. I do have a table saw. The size of my sheet of steel is 20"x72". I have a tube of liquid nails will that be good way to attach the steel to table? Some pictures if any of build will be nice
I didn't glue the sheet metal to the top of the bench. That allow's me to move the top to other locations.
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJWash1 View Post
CafeenMan,

A question.

In your experience with using the System, does a color contrast between the fixtures and the model matter? I'd like to stain the fixtures darker than the birch before applying a coat of varnish or urethane.

EJWash
Not a bit. I mean if you were building some scale city with lots of bridges and stuff and the fixtures were the same color as the structures it would probably matter but for what we do, you won't lose the fixtures in the build.

Now building a magnet into a structure can happen.

That said, my fixture set is sapele. I'm going to start a thread when it's all finished. It's a pretty impressive set. Sapele is sort of a redwood - very dark. It's also iridescent because it's quarter-sawn so when you tilt a fixture it changes colors and reflects light - almost glows. I've never seen anything like it.

I didn't do it on purpose. I asked the sawyer how to ensure that the wood wouldn't cup and he said best shot is quarter sawn. So that's what I got.

I keep thinking about making "limited edition" sets from good hardwoods. The main problem is that they will cost at least double because it takes days to thickness the wood. So another project to add to my list of projects.

Did I answer your question?
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Old Sep 30, 2012, 09:16 AM
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WAIT!!! STOP!!!! Don't stain anything yet. I forgot about something.

Plywood absorbs a lot of whatever into the open grain edges of the face laminations. What that means is that when you stain the pieces will probably be a lot darker around the ends, back edge (because it's cut semi-cross grain due to the taper) and the holes. You might really hate how it looks. In fact, that's why I decided against using Danish oil on my plywood fixtures. More oil soaked in and it looks darker around all those areas.

I very strongly suggest that if you have a spare fixture you test the finish on it. If you don't have a spare fixture then just take a piece of scrap of the same plywood and use it. Drill the holes as if it's a finished piece - in other words, make them nice like you did with your fixtures. Sand it for finish and then apply the stain. If you like it then you're in business. If you don't then no harm, no foul.
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