Speed depends on hole size. But you generally want to go slower with brad points. On larger holes I like to use Forstner bits as they clear chips well, out the top, and create less tearout.

Yeah, the chart I reference calls for 1800 RPM for 1/8" brad points for soft wood (pine) and 1200 RPM for hardwood (hard maple). 1800 RPM - 1000 RPM for a 1/4" brad point for the same woods. The closest I can come on my drill press is 1440 RPM. Hard maple is just this side of a medium-density alloy (pun intended) so I'm guessing I'll be okay. I'll be test-running on scrap.

EJWash

With a tiny 1/8" bit you can run it pretty fast because it is surface speed that is the concern. This goes up as diameter increases.

Unless I know otherwise, I always start with the fastest speed and slow down as necessary. I was using my bench drill press, not my mini, so plenty of power for this task. The bit just didn't clear out. And that was test holes NOT using the jig. With the jig it was much worse. I think I have 50 of those bits that I'll probably sharpen into split point bits.

By the way, the holes I get with standard high speed steel bits are very clean. The fuzz in the holes on the page I linked to was because I was down to two bits and had an entire weekend so I kept drilling long after the bits were dull. I had bits on order but they weren't coming in until late that week. I really regret not just waiting because it took me hours to clean up all those holes. None of it was tear-out - it was just stuff that didn't cut away.

Regular high speed bits make very clean holes at this size with so little fuzzing you have to look closely to even see it. Finish sanding and rubbing the finish rounds over the edges of all the holes nicely. You don't have to make a special effort to clean the holes after they're drilled but you do need to use a backer.

Lastly, a pipe cleaner is a great paint brush. Do the holes first and then the faces. I only put one coat in the holes using the pipe cleaner from both sides to ensure I got everything.

Just ran a few holes in scrap pieces of the 3/16" birch using high-speed drill bits, 2540 RPM, drilling into MDF backing. I have complaints. A little "fuzz" as the bit enters the wood just as CafeenMan points out. Means I can start boring holes as soon as I'm finished with the jig.

One reason I wanted to go with brad point drills is because it is so easy to align the point dead where you want it on your material. Hard to do that with a regular twist bit. Guess I can chuck-up a centering device, remove it, and then chuck-up the applicable bit?

EJWash

Yeah, twist drills chip out around the entry hole. Brad point and Forstners avoid that.

I have both 3/16" and 1/4" Forstner bits. Just tried both, slowed RMP to 870 - very clean holes, but the high-speed bits are close enough. Besides, I don't think I'm going to find a 9/64 Forstner.

EJWash

Well, here's the deal. I ran into a snag making the jig for boring the press holes in the fixtures. Ironically, this can be filed under running into a snag making a jig to make a jig...

As I posted, the kerf of the blade on my table saw is 3/32". Well, on the plus side, a piece of 3/32" material will fit into the kerf very snuggly. On the down side, I need to move the ply gates from one kerf to another. This means I need to cut a kerf and then go back and widen it just a couple of frog's hair in width.

I marked-out the kerfs on the jig and started cutting. After a few cuts I measured the distances. Somewhere along the way, I marked a line on the wrong side. DOH! On to fabricating Jig #2...

Making a new jig is not a bad thing here. I was using MDF as backing when drilling a few other things and found that MDF really clogs-up the drill bit. I routed a 1/4" thick, 1" wide dado in the jig to use MDF as sacrifice. After using 1/4" birch ply for a few test holes when deciding on drill bit type for the fixture holes, I decided to use 1/4" birch ply as sacrifice. I have a few 1' X 4'-long boards on-hand that I can rip. Thing is, the 1/4" birch is slightly thinner than the MDF. I'll be able to route a shallower dado to accommodate the birch.

That's woodworking - live and learn!

EJWash

Remember: a master builder is simply someone who can cover up ANY mistake.

I appreciate that! Although, I'm going to start over here with the jig.

Many years ago, I attended a woodworking seminar and Norm Abrams was on hand. During Q&A, Norm someone commented how Norm always made such perfect cuts. Norm smiled, and then answered that they don't show the "Mulligans" on his show. I've always remembered that. If things don't turn-out the way you want, hey, nothing spins-off into space!

My "Retirement Shop" includes plans a wood-burning stove. Great place to "handle" such situations...

EJWash

Fixture drilling jig complete!

Fabricating the second jig marched along just fine. I learned a couple of things on the first attempt and am happy with what I have. For one, I think that the MDF is a big factor in it's use as drill-through backing, or "sacrifice". It seems to compress to a degree ahead of being bored, even with a fresh sharp bit. I shallowed the sacrifice groove on the jig to accommodate 1/4" birch ply (which has a nominal thickness slightly less than 1/4"). I tried a few test holes, and the exit is cleaner than the entry. Though I attribute the clean exit to hold-down clamps.

Waiting for the bits to be delivered, then I can get to those many, many, many holes...

EJWash

The drill bits arrived from Lee Valley Tools. Fast service, and each bit's tip was dipped in a protective, strippable plastic coating. Nice.

Started boring the press holes in the 3-1/2" and 5-1/2" fixtures. I am very happy with the The drilling jig I fabricated. One course bored at a time. After the first course is bored in all the fixtures, the drilling jig will be realigned, and then the second course will be bored.

When I started boring the holes, I had to contend with the dust (or chips) from the holes. I brought my shop vacuum into use, but i really can't clamp the intake nozzle in a fixed position, so I have to hold the nozzle in hand and position it to pick-up the chips. Not too big a deal. Thought of using compressed air to blow the chips away as the holes are bored, but they will more than likely land in the gate grooves and I'll have to vacuum them up anyway.

Well, its iPod on, and away we go! 96 holes bored and *ONLY* 920 holes to go!

EJWash

HALF-WAY THERE! 508 holes bored and 508 to go! I got tired of listening to music on my iPod, so I switched to my iPhone and listened to some "radio" internet programs.

The process is VERY mundane. Keeping a clean work area around the boring is VERY important. At first, I bored the hole and then vacuumed away the chips with my shop vac. Then I switched to holding the vacuum nozzle at the hole, sucking-up the chips as I bored the hole. A much cleaner process!

EJWash

The second course of vertical press holes are finished on the 3-1/2" and 5-1/2". Taking a lunch break, then back at it!

EJWash