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Old Aug 21, 2012, 01:35 PM
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loNslo,

Good to see ya.

Yeah, the Board has been huanting me for some time now. Its definitly an investment in time to get one up and going, but I can't wait to work with the "no-brainer" accuracy (*if* I get it up right...) of it.

EJWash
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 02:34 PM
wood is good
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EJWash1 View Post
...I mentioned that I was using MDF for the fixture sled bases and basswood for the alignment battens...
Fancy--schmancy! That's it, I'm using Teak!
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 06:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loNslo View Post
Fancy--schmancy! That's it, I'm using Teak!
HA! But I have a stash of basswood!

I'm *sure* you have a stash of teak - no?

EJWash
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 06:47 PM
wood is good
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True, I have a stash of teak but it rarely gets used for shop tooling!

We'll have to see where oneupsmanship takes us.
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Old Aug 21, 2012, 07:03 PM
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You know, I have some Purpleheart, enough to make twenty (20) presses, so back-at -ya!

I was talking to my wife about staining each size fixture a different tone. She just smiled *that* smile...

EJWash
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 05:27 PM
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United States, PA, Easton
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EJ,

I looked into this awhile ago, but was unable to source the sheet steel for the top...Where would you go for that and about how much should it cost?

Thanks in advance.

Gordon

I'm in Easton, PA.....
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 06:27 PM
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Hi Gordon,

I had my metal top cut and laser etched by a local sheet metal fabricator here in the Phoenix, Arizona valley. Of course the laser etching cost more than the sheet of metal itself. I can't remember exactly what I paid, but it was just over $100. The metal top was maybe a third of that.

Look in your Yellow Pages under metal fabricators. Some guys have had luck with metal salvagers, and I looked going this route, but didn't have any luck because of the size of the top I wanted.

I went overboard etching the top, being that it will be covered with plan sheets most of the time...

EJWash
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 07:24 PM
wood is good
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An alternative to etching would be to coat the metal with Dykem
http://www.amazon.com/Dykem-CL-BLUE-.../dp/B0018ACR6G
and then accurately layout and scribe your own grid.
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 07:48 PM
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loNslo,

I Googled Dykem to find instructions, but came-up empty. Is this fluid applied and then lines etched into the fluid?

EJWash
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 08:16 PM
wood is good
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United States, CA, Marina Del Rey
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Yes.

You "paint" it on; it quickly dries; then your scribed lines show up as bright, shiny metal against a darkish blue background. This is a product generally used by machine shops, metal workers and pattern makers for laying out prior to cutting to a precise shape.
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 08:34 PM
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Gotcha! As you said, another option.

EJWash
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 12:28 AM
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What I plan to do some day is just measure out the grid with pencil ticks around the edge and then use a straightedge with a friend to scribe the board. I've had no luck calling metal shops to find a way to have the board etched for me. Sounds like you've had better luck.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 09:09 PM
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Did some work on the fixture drilling jig today. Thought I'd post a few pics.

The fixture hole drilling jig is 3/4" MDF, 32" long and 9-3/4" wide. There are two 3/4" X 1" fences spaced 4-1/2" apart running the length of the jig. The fixture will slide along the rear fence as the holes are drilled in the fixtures. The reason for the front fence will be explained as building progresses.

One of the biggest problems with drilling holes through wood is tear-out. Because of the thin veneer make-up, plywood is especially susceptible. There are several designs of drill bits that boast minimal tear-out, but nothing guarantees a more clean drill exit than backing the subject material with another piece of wood, referred to as a "sacrifice". Even better is to be able to secured both the subject and sacrifice together. This is so the subject does not float-up as the drill bit exits. On my jig, the fixtures will be held in place on the jig by two hold-down clamps. In order for each hole to have "fresh" (un-drilled sacrifice wood) I routed a 1"-wide, 1/4"-deep dado to accommodate a 1"-wide strip of 1/4"-thick MDF. I will slide the sacrifice strip along with the fixture after drilling each hole.

I ordered several brad point drill bits from Lee Valley Tools. Best price for what I needed.

EJWash
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 09:07 AM
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I had really bad luck with the correct size brad points (9/64"). They didn't clear chips and had to be backed out 3 times at least to make it through 3/16" ply. Maybe you'll have better luck or just more time to back out the bit a lot.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Do you remember what RPM you were drilling at with the brad points?

EJWash
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