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Old Aug 18, 2012, 07:03 AM
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guillow's zero 1/2a conversion?

im looking at what some people do for the zero 26 inch WS kit, and they come out in the 9oz range, electric. has anyone ever done a 1/2 conversion with a cox .049 on a guillow's kit?
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 12:52 PM
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There is quite a few examples in that thread:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150284
Post #10 and on by mlbco and others!
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 09:00 PM
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mucho thankyous!
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 10:44 PM
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Back in the 80's I converted many with TD .051.

While these were fun, they are much more fun with a throttle. The PAW .033 diesel and .061 diesels word very well and I am guessing that a Norvel .049-.061 would, too.

You really need a throttle. The flat bottom airfoil on these models creates tremendous lift and you have to trim them with quite a bit of down (or hold a lot of down) at full throttle. They look much more realistic flying around at slower speeds.
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 10:46 PM
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yeah, im modding the stock airfoil on a 905 kit im converting to TAER. i was planning on getting the throttle choke tube from cox, one day...
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Old Aug 22, 2012, 12:07 AM
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eastern pa
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This won't help you much, nemo, but wayyyy back in the 60's at the Willow Grove Nats I saw a young man with a Guillow's Zero powered by a Cox .049 Babe Bee. It was entered in Free Flight Scale, painted a dull brown. It flew well, but fast. He obviously had trimmed it out before coming to the Nats.
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Old Sep 15, 2012, 10:36 PM
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A Cox .049 powered small Guillows model, without throttle control, will be hard to control. Getting through the maiden flight will be tricky requiring a lot of pilot skill, proper down and right thrust settings, proper cg and proper wing incidence. The .049 will probably have too much power and torque. Put prop on backwards to reduce power for maiden flight attempt.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 12:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Challenged View Post
A Cox .049 powered small Guillows model, without throttle control, will be hard to control. Getting through the maiden flight will be tricky requiring a lot of pilot skill, proper down and right thrust settings, proper cg and proper wing incidence. The .049 will probably have too much power and torque. Put prop on backwards to reduce power for maiden flight attempt.
Having successfully flown an .049 I whole heartedly agree with all of the above.

Putting the prop on backwards is a good idea, but I used to just set the motor rich to where it was breaking in and out of 2/4 cycle to reduce power.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 01:04 AM
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A plane that size is a candidate for Cox .020 Pee Wee power. Too bad that those are no longer being manufactured.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 11:30 AM
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With lightweight modern RC gear an .020 might be good. I will tell you that mine had a full size old receiver and two old mini (not nearly as small or light as what we have now) servos and a heavy 250mah nicad with full size old school switch.

Still flew great. I would say don't worry too much about wing incidence, trim and the like-I never did. Do try to build the wings straight and make sure that they don't warp from covering.

I used full strip ailerons on mine but I don't recall how much throw. I would think half an inch would be a good starting place. Just mentally prepare yourself that the controls may be twitchy.

The flat bottom airfoil is very foregining and even with my old heavy RC stuff I could glide reasonably well to a landing when the fuel gave out.
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Old Sep 16, 2012, 04:42 PM
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Those principles of the lightest gear possible held true even when escapements and light weight regenerative receivers were used. One thing that helped though was to keep the airframe as light as possible. Nowadays, it is made easy with park flyer type coverings such as Coverite's CoverLite and MicroLite coverings. Use a minimal amount of paint. Back then it was silkspan or light weight silk and clear dope.

Sounds like you had a blast even with your somewhat heavier plane. I imagine though due to its heavier weight, it had good wind penetration.
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 08:14 AM
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I converted several Gillows and Sterling kits back when my reflexes were about 100X better.
Flying Models had at least one article about conversions that focused on filling in the space between stringers in the nose, reinforcing the landing gear (if you keep it) and how to plan for control surfaces. They did say the rest of the fuse was strong enough as is and not to be tempted to add anything.

An .049 is a bit big but stay throttled (exhaust or choke tube) and you’ll be ok. Don’t run rich as you’ll eventually surge to full power followed by a dead stick... With a flat bottom wing, that left me nose up and unpowered. YMMV. My control surfaces throws were 1/4 in on ailerons and 3/8 on the tail. I flew them pretty sedate but it’s a starting point. I also kept the control surfaces about 1/3 of the surface area and strip ailerons for simplicity (cut ribs back a bit and add a 1/4 x 1/8 trailing edge to hang the aileron from).

Depending on where the formers are, you can sometimes razor saw the stringers flush with the front of a former and add a 1/16 ply firewall. I added right and down thrust by placing tabs of bicycle inner tube under the screws.

The smallest I did was an 18 inch Bird Dog with PeeWee .020 (too big), two $70 Airtronics micros (before 6 gram servos were $2), an AM RX and four 50mAh cells. Tiny and quick. Still have a Sopwith Camel, Bristol Scout and Wright Flyer NIB… Tempting.

Cheers,
Vince L.
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