Originally Posted by flymess

Simple QHOR with corflute fuse. Simple but effective

As a matter of interest, what motor, lipo and ESC are you using here. I was going to go and order a G-25 motor ex HobbyKing here in Oz and take it from there ... existing 3S lipo around 2000 Mah and ESC maybe a Plush 40 ....

Alan W

Originally Posted by AlphaWhisky

As a matter of interest, what motor, lipo and ESC are you using here. I was going to go and order a G-25 motor ex HobbyKing here in Oz and take it from there ... existing 3S lipo around 2000 Mah and ESC maybe a Plush 40 ....

Alan W

AW,
Your Battery and ESC sound like they are good for this type of plane. I'll have to look up that motor. You only need a park flier sized elec motor. Lower Kv = bigger prop size. Better for you to look up dedicated threads about motors because I'm a bit random, and just try anything until it crashes (or burns up)

QHOR looking good codger

i'll race ya. could be good for combat

Who is this Madman and when will he leave me alone?
You've got nothing close to the QHOR for manouverability(I give up with spelling) . Go fast fella, I'll catch you on the next lap. If you last that long!!!!

here is a vid of one of my corflute combat wings a bit fast for combat but all the more interesting.

Fast EP corflute combat wing. (4 min 17 sec)

Time for more combat, comrade. Now is the time to return to the "Zip-Tiger". Build it and die MF.
Use your best skills to make a plane that kills. I'll be!

I am pretty busy leading up to this weekend as am going away large scale racing but will do you a plan as soon as I get back. Off the top of my head though the wing panel is 3 foot wide and 480 deep, fold it in half so it is only 240 deep and then I use 1 full length piece for the ailerons that I simply cut later to make into 2 seperate ailerons. I normally measure along the coreflute in distance (ie millimeters) and across the coreflute in segments (ie 7x 5mm segments instead of 35mm as it wont add up to 35mm

Originally Posted by steve wenban

Adrian built and flew this at last years slope fest

Wow, that looks pretty amazing. But I think you gotta take the "S" out of SPAD for that one!

Early on in my rc plane life (only a few years ago really) I built a Mugi. It was way too fast for my abilities at the time, but heaps of fun! And tough. Ditched it 4 times out of 5 trying to get it in the air. Best effort was full throttle side arm launch, Mugi inverts itself and I managed to continue the roll and continue flying. Lucky there were some friends there to witness it!

OK so here is a quick start on a fuse, I cut the coreflute 630mm long and mark across it 6-1-11-1-13-1-11-1-6 segments. Each single segment (1) marked as a full length black line in the pic is cut away from the top surface only, this leaves the outer skin but then allows the coreflute to fold easily. The sides fold up onto the bottom, making the last bottom piece segment also a side piece segment, hence why it is longer than the sides, and the same goes for the top.
I do all my measuring from the tail and is as follows, 100mm distance cut in for the horizontal stab and cut aways to have the rear taper in (this is done for structural strength). 160mm distance cut for vertical stab, this cut is only cleaning up the very edge of the half segment prior to the first full segment on the coreflute. 260mm the end of the wing saddle, you can see the shaded areas are what I cut out but I have omited the shape of the wing saddle once the top of the fuse segment is removed, to make this shape I usually just lay the wingtip on the side of the fuse and trace with a texter. 500mm distance to start of wing saddle. 600mm distance to start of fuse. from her to 630mm is little "shark teeth" I cut out and fold inwards to make part of the firewall that holds the ply to the plane.
To make the box section stick I use contact cement and place 3mm ply under the front section (500mm-600mm) and the same between the wing saddle and vert stab (160mm-260mm), I do cheat here and I will try and do a few more pics tomoz as I had a mate cut the ply plates with a laser cutter to save me time and the rear one has servo holes cut out of it.
Hope this is a helpful start

At this years slope fest phil did a fantastic job on a corro eagle
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2046

one of these days i will build something good looking out of flute might go a pelican just to be different.I hear Andrews eagle still did not perform a good as hoped though it looked great when i saw it fly "shortly" at sandy headland did Phils fly nice

no both had control problems I'm sure they'll sort out before next years event

one of my first corflute edfs
sorry for the brothers edit the edf sounds better
early stages of corflute building

whats your rum?

corflute/coroplast rc edf bundy jet (2 min 20 sec)

like the launch stance
guess my rum

It's time to retire "pinky". It's had it's share of hard crashes (probably 20 or more), is still flyable but not as sweet as it was. Give you some pics of it now, a plan to make one, and some pics of the build of it's replacement. Don't let Pink put you off. That's just the colour of the plastic adhesive I used for orientation. This thing is no "sheila", it's a very versatile screaming jet which can be flown slow too.

more pics of delta build. Note lots of small cable ties. Glue is messy and slow.
I use thick skewers to strengthen the rear of the plane. The central piece of corflute between the skewers is glued because it needs to be strong. Be sure to cut this piece so that the flutes run diagonally when compared with the base. The hinge for both elevons is made by cutting out one flute on the underside . The hook nosed blade in the pic is perfect for this job