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Old Oct 08, 2012, 07:21 PM
Shore Huckin'
KE Spin's Avatar
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Originally Posted by jimbo320 View Post
..... I would acutally prefer the look with some dihedtral if it doesnt affect the performance too much. I could insert say a 1/16th balsa sheet under the centre section. Loops are nicer with a little dihedral too.
I think that dihedral would work against you during inverted flight in which the tips would be down (anhedral). I saw this in a friend's 3d plane...which when inverted wing-rocked and wobbled.

I added carbon fiber struts to my Extra to keep the wings stiffer and level for both inverted and upright flight.
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by jimbo320 View Post
Not quite sure how to get rid of the warp on plain epp. Im used to removing warps by heating the covering of a plane but not with just plain epp. Whats the process? Theres also a little warp in the aileron too towards the end.
It's very easy and there is no special technique. All you're trying to do is raise the temperature of the foam, and it will naturally return to it's original shape. Use a hair dryer NOT a hot air gun - then there is no chance of you melting the foam. Try it, i'm sure you'll succeed no problem.

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Originally Posted by jimbo320 View Post
Im guessing you are thinking adding the spars will remove the slight warp if i add weight. Is this likely to happen, i checked it over just now and it does need a little weight to remove it with the decor upside too.
The spars are the single thing that gives the wing stiffness. As the wing flexes, the spar of the opposite side is in tension - and carbon is very very strong in tension.

If you ensure the wing is straight when you glue the spars in, then it's not going to deform very much afterwards because the carbon will hold it.

My wing only deformed on the aileron and tip - which was because I leaned it up against some shelving in the garage. But the main part of the wing will not deform once the carbon is in.

Consequently, if you were to glue the carbon in when the wing wasn't straight, then you've ruined the model because you will never get it straight.

Now, here is where I differ to some others in the thread: You should glue the carbon spars in with cyano, not uhu or builder's cement. That is what Telink recommend in the instructions for their models. The reason? as I stated above, you want the carbon in tension to resist flex in the wing. So, you need to glue it in with a non-flexible glue. If you use something like uhu, your wing will NOT be as stiff, because there will be a little bit of give in the carbon-to-foam joint.

It's also a lot easier to put the spar in - just cut the slot, poke the carbon in, then drip some thin cyano in over the top - and it will wick around the carbon and glue it in nice and rigid.


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Originally Posted by jimbo320 View Post
Are you also saying that some dihehral is beneficial. I would acutally prefer the look with some dihedtral if it doesnt affect the performance too much. I could insert say a 1/16th balsa sheet under the centre section. Loops are nicer with a little dihedral too.
Inside loops might be nicer, but what about outside loops? I would NOT want ANY dihedral on a model like this. Leave that for trainers. ;-)
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Old Oct 09, 2012, 09:38 AM
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I used thin CA. Put one side in, as per instructions, before wicking the CA in you can actually bend any visual warpage straight, add CA and kicker, and you have a straight wing. I actually cut a tad deeper than advised. Turn it over and do the other side. Again, eyeball it before adding any CA and kicker. No dihydral, hope I spelled that right, KE's hands off in both directions and is silly stable in harriers.
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Old Oct 15, 2012, 11:22 AM
jv8
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United States, PA, Pittsburgh
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So has anyone flown the removable wing version of this Telink?

I love my SU29 but it won't fit in my trunk. I can fit the 3DHS 38" EPP Slick and 48" EPP Extra but one is too floaty in the wind and the other isn't as durable as the Telink.

I'm really interested to see how solid the wing mounting is on this new Telink.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 06:48 AM
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Can someone please tell me do i put both long carbon rod in the fuz on either side? Or do i use one to straighten out the stab/elevator?

Thanks.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by jimbo320 View Post
Can someone please tell me do i put both long carbon rod in the fuz on either side? Or do i use one to straighten out the stab/elevator?

Thanks.
jimbo.... the carbon rods go on both sides of the fuselage. There should be one long and one short per side, each starting from the nose, about 1/8" forward of the motor mount.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:35 PM
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jimbo.... the carbon rods go on both sides of the fuselage. There should be one long and one short per side, each starting from the nose, about 1/8" forward of the motor mount.
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cdee
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Thanks Cdee, so there are no carbon rods in the tail at all?
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 12:57 PM
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Yes there is. Have a look at Cdee's build pics at the start of the thread, step 16a onwards. It will be a thin carbon rod, probably around 1mm, and it will need cutting in half. Half for the top of the horizontal stab and half for the bottom
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:17 PM
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Ah, its the really skinny one, i thought that was a pushrod. Doh. That isnt going to provide much strength, required of course for my dumb thumbs....
Just looked at cdees pics close up, i need one of those boards that you can pin too (well it looks like it is pinned). Nice way to get it flat. What sort of board is it?

My wings are done, elevator done (apart from the rods), working on the fuz now.

Those connectors on the wing, whats the story with that? Do you screw them very tight? Or do you need to allow some movement as a very tight grip will give resistance on the horns, as they are screwed up direct on the horn. Im worried if i dont screw tight, i will get a screw loose (hmm did i just say that..)
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by jimbo320 View Post
Ah, its the really skinny one, i thought that was a pushrod. Doh. That isnt going to provide much strength, required of course for my dumb thumbs....
Just looked at cdees pics close up, i need one of those boards that you can pin too (well it looks like it is pinned). Nice way to get it flat. What sort of board is it?
jimbo... the thin rods when glued in from both sides really stiffen things up nicely. The board is just a drop ceiling panel, flipped over. You have to lay it on top of a nice flat surface, but otherwise works really nice, and they only cost a couple dollars!

The quick links need to be able to rotate to allow the rod to pivot when the servo moves. Tighten the nut to allow this, and than hit with a lit dab of CA or other glue to lock it's position. If using CA, be careful that things are not positioned in such a way the the CA will run in to the area were the quick link and servo arm come into contact with each other.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by cdee View Post
jimbo... the thin rods when glued in from both sides really stiffen things up nicely. The board is just a drop ceiling panel, flipped over. You have to lay it on top of a nice flat surface, but otherwise works really nice, and they only cost a couple dollars!

The quick links need to be able to rotate to allow the rod to pivot when the servo moves. Tighten the nut to allow this, and than hit with a lit dab of CA or other glue to lock it's position. If using CA, be careful that things are not positioned in such a way the the CA will run in to the area were the quick link and servo arm come into contact with each other.
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cdee
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Ok, thanks cdee, i thought that may be the solution but was hoping it wasnt so no cyanoing would be required. Not a problem though.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 01:35 PM
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I use thick ca on those so it doesn't run anywhere it's not wanted and hit it with activator. I didn't much like the idea when I did my first Telink but every one I've done has been fine.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Aviefly View Post
I use thick ca on those so it doesn't run anywhere it's not wanted and hit it with activator. I didn't much like the idea when I did my first Telink but every one I've done has been fine.
yes, my original thoughts as well, but have not ever had one come apart (knock on wood)
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Aviefly View Post
I use thick ca on those so it doesn't run anywhere it's not wanted and hit it with activator. I didn't much like the idea when I did my first Telink but every one I've done has been fine.
I found red loctite works good as well.
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Old Oct 17, 2012, 11:24 PM
Shore Huckin'
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+1 on the Red Loctite. :-)
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