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Old Aug 17, 2012, 11:12 PM
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Do take a sailplane ride. Ive never flown at Sugarbush, but I have heard that in the winter people occasionally contact wave in the area.

I haven't flown full scale for years, but some of my fondest memories are of sailplane flying. I've also done a lot of White Water in the New England area and watched my first kayak race on the West River in Jamaica VT.

Looks like you are coming along nicely on the fuse.

Pete
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PeteSchug View Post
Do take a sailplane ride. Ive never flown at Sugarbush, but I have heard that in the winter people occasionally contact wave in the area.

I haven't flown full scale for years, but some of my fondest memories are of sailplane flying. I've also done a lot of White Water in the New England area and watched my first kayak race on the West River in Jamaica VT.

Looks like you are coming along nicely on the fuse.

Pete
I think I'll try the Super Blanik L-23 or hopefully ASK-21 for my first ride. The L-23 has forward swept wings and is probably the closest I'll get to an ASK-13.

Today's update. I cut out F10 and mounted F9 to the jig. Nothing much to report, waiting on the 7mm aluminum tubing from Towerhobbies. Next up is to order sitka spruce wing spars and balsa sheeting.

I did receive a package of 250mAh 2Ss from HK and decided to go out and fly some sailplanes! Stuffed 6.78m into the back of my MINI R53 and did some ridge soaring with the hawks this afternoon and took out my 2m ASW-28, good stuff.
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Old Aug 18, 2012, 11:45 PM
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Since everyone's fav photo in this thread seems to be my little studioRS balsa 0.53meter (21" wing span) DFS Reiher, here's another teaser. I'll make a separate build thread for it.
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Old Aug 19, 2012, 08:37 PM
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Time for a reboot. Its amazing what a nights sleep and couple of cups of coffee can do for me. Here is what I accomplished today.

Something didn't look right with my drafting eye on the first two bulkheads F1, F2 alignment. I checked the measurements again on the centerline of the jig baseboard, yup off by 2mm on F1, F2. Realigned these and tacked back up. Measure ten times, tack up once... Glad I did... I'm such a knucklehead and forgot to figure in the space needed to glue pieces to F1, so I took out the coping saw and fixed the jig, then tacked it all back up for the last time.

I cut out the remaining fuselage pieces F11, F12 and F13 remembering that I made the adjustment to the profile in red on the PDF, I grabbed my iPad, surfed up this thread, downloaded my PDF and made the adjustment, trimming F12 down some on the nose. Since these pieces are cut from 2.3mm instead of 2mm I had to file notches to fit. Glued up F12 and the rear 1/4x1/4 balsa keel with UHU Hart.
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Old Aug 20, 2012, 11:44 AM
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After reviewing many photos of the real ASK-13 fuselage nose, I made a slight adjustment in the F12 nose curve and made it a tick more stubby.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 12:48 PM
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It is amazing how much can be accomplished when you receive small parts holding up the building process - my order from Tower Hobbies (and order from HK with wheels and other goodies) arrived with the 7mm aluminum tubing, yahoo!

Building this is addictive!
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 11:26 PM
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Finished the stringers and landing gear assembly. It was easier to install the wheel at this point due to the tight tolerances and small washers on either side in-between the ply and wheel. Glued everything up and ready to build the front skid and start skinning with 1/16" balsa.

Silly question from a newbie scratch builder. Q. At what point do I remove the fuselage from the jig? It certainly looks like it could come off now.

It seems really solid prior to skinning with balsa, but I don't want to get any warp in it if I remove to early without the skin on it. If any of you expert builders could let me know that would be much appreciated. TIA.

Cheers, Thompson
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 12:38 AM
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Do not take it off the jig yet....it may seem like it is rigid but once you pull it off at that stage it will twist up like crazy! At this stage plan out how and where your control runs are going to be and install them. Then put as much of the sheathing on as you can alternating from one side to the other. When you get as much on as possible only then release it from the jig and then sheet what areas remain.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 08:01 AM
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Well certainly don't want that to happen, great information. I will leave on the jig and keep pumping up photos of my progress. I did take some last night of the landing gear wheel assembly. Thank goodness I decided to glue this in WITH the wheel, washers, axle as it rolls perfectly now.

1. Next up is the front skid. To get the bend correct I was thinking of using 1/16 ply on top and basswood underneath for the profile. To keep correct scale, it sure would be nice to add a thin strip of aluminum over the 1/16" ply when finished. I know that the skid is flexible and the sides are compression looking wrinkled fabric. Using my modified PDF Nose profile. I'll try to solve that look and keep it scale

2. I will tackle the control runs next. I was planning to run the rudder to exit on starboard side as original. I don't think I will be able to make a trim tab on the elevator, not enough space, keep it simple, it is only 1:10 scale, 1650mm.

My plan was to use Sullivan #507 golden rod 2-56 size for rudder and elevator.

3. 1/16"balsa sheathing will go after. Lots of UHU Hart and pins soon!

Thank you again and I'm open to any other suggestions.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 10:11 AM
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EDIT: newbie opps. Looking over the real ASK-13, noticed that the rudder is pull-pull, duho. So, remark about exiting the starboard side is incorrect. http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedi...her_ASK_13.png

Couple more questions...

Q. I wonder if I need to build a pull-pull cable rudder set-up for such a small scale and would two 2-56 Sullivan #507 golden rods work, seems overkill and thin cables would be better. Just see a bunch of work with that... Wonder if one #507 2-56 will be up to the task for each rudder and elevator? KISS principle, right?

Q. Since I'm going to be installing rudder and elevator controls soon, deciding upon pull-pull or one, where usually is a good location for the servos, near the CoG? And most importantly, what is a good size servo and spec that should I purchase for this size 1650mm wingspan and 1:10 scale ASK-13 sailplane ?

I have a DX6i, AR600 (or HK OrangeRx w/Remote), which I've used to cut my teeth learning how to fly on my DG-1000, ASW-28 and Radian, also a new Futaba 7C 2.4gHz FASST (not entirely sure I'm planning to keep the 7C and might switch over to the new Graupner HOTT system), but since I've already got the Futaba 7C might be fine?
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 11:50 AM
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Landing gear assembly built and installed with HK 35mm x 10mm wheel, axle and two washers. Tight, tight tolerances, needed to file the inner sides of F4 to fit properly and make the wheel spin freely. All is well and works great. I will need to put some masking tape over to protect while finishing everything.

1:10 scale ASK-13 landing gear wheel used.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dproduct=10873
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 12:10 PM
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Pull-pull is way over kill for a plane this size......the 507 will be fine......better would be to replace the cable with a solid music wire......and one rod per function is fine.....I have a 40% that the rudder is driven by just one control rod. As far as servos go a HS-85 will be more then enough for both elevator and rudder.....you could even go smaller because at this size the forces on the control surfaces are not that large. As far as where to put the servos.....as far forward as possible......battery all the way forward, then servos, then receiver ...... You aren't planning to try and detail the interior are you? I would just put a bottom on the canopy tray and put some heads in it......
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SZD16 View Post
Pull-pull is way over kill for a plane this size......the 507 will be fine......better would be to replace the cable with a solid music wire......and one rod per function is fine.....I have a 40% that the rudder is driven by just one control rod. As far as servos go a HS-85 will be more then enough for both elevator and rudder.....you could even go smaller because at this size the forces on the control surfaces are not that large. As far as where to put the servos.....as far forward as possible......battery all the way forward, then servos, then receiver ...... You aren't planning to try and detail the interior are you? I would just put a bottom on the canopy tray and put some heads in it......
Ok, sounds good, I will use a 507 2-56 and HS-85s or smaller servos. I think I have some solid wire to replace the cables. If not, will the cables that come with the 507 work fine?

I always try to detail something and I do have several HK ultra detailed scale pilots. Yes, basically just the head, bust and arms, they don't weight that much. Maybe a paper printout of the instrument panel too. Will try to keep it as light as possible. Thanks for your help.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 01:47 PM
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Inspiration for the weekend, enjoy!

Rencontre ASK 13 St Crépin 2011 (6 min 35 sec)
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 03:10 PM
Vintage wood is the best!
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The cables will work fine......just be sure to "tin" the ends of the cable where it's not supported where it exists the fuse.....I prefer solid wire because it has less tendency to bow out of shape where it's unsupported......but as long as you tin the ends then it will be rigid enough. I went up to Elmira for the vintage meet last month and there was a 13 there.....beautiful aircraft. I would love to do one at 40% one day!
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