I'm a little confused on wiring those motors up to the board (from the first page). Is this what you use?



http://www.hobbyking.com/mobile/view...dproduct=19565

Solder those onto the end of the S107 motors and just plug 'em up to the board?

Originally Posted by variantman

I'm a little confused on wiring those motors up to the board (from the first page). Is this what you use?

http://www.hobbyking.com/mobile/view...dproduct=19565

Solder those onto the end of the S107 motors and just plug 'em up to the board?

Wrong cable. Get these : http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=9727

I know this was discussed in the past but I want to make sure I get this right..
Do you need to reverse the direction of two of the AliExpress 7mm motors when connected to the V939 board? If yes, how do you do it?

Originally Posted by midelic

Which controller do you use?For V 929 controler you need to swap wires.For V939 controller see picture.

Thanks, Mystman.


I wish more of you all would post flight videos of your diy contraptions.

Originally Posted by midelic

Which tx do you use?If using V911 tx, it fips easily.

9x. I was using my V911 model I have in it which is actually nothing more than a clean new model with the elevator reversed. Rates are at 100% and no expo.

So what makes it flip? I can't find much information. Is the speed that the stick is moved or the amount? I see people online say that you can manually flip it but I'm not sure how that works if it auto-flips once you hit 3/4 stick throw or so. I don't know how the V939 TX "rates" translate to a normal TX. I can't imagine the rates being even slower than what they are now, if anything I want them to be much higher.

The "carnage"


It broke very cleanly which makes me think the problem I have is that I used lacquer to coat the motor fixture but the polyurethane glue does not stick very well to it. I guess I'll have to eventually do it the slow way with the polyurethane coating... or maybe use a different glue.

Originally Posted by gilcd85

I know this was discussed in the past but I want to make sure I get this right..
Do you need to reverse the direction of two of the AliExpress 7mm motors when connected to the V939 board? If yes, how do you do it?

Yes. Which motors do you have red/blue or black/white?

Black/White : solder 2 motors black/black & white/red -2 motors reversed.
Red/Blue : solder 2 motors blue/black & red/red -2 motors reversed.

In short: 2 Motors have to be soldered reveversed to the Micro JST Cable

Maybe this is the problem.Indoor I used 60%rate.I cannot use 100%.From you explanation it seems that one or some of throtle/ail/ele curve are not linear.

Hmm. The 9xR will have built-in DSM instead of the old protocol, so no more using the 9x as a transmitter, and don't want to have to bother with a seperate Tx for these things.

So I had a few v929 spares and some old 8mm motors (from solo pro 328 tail) I put them together using 8.5cm bamboo arms, a v929 frame and v929 rx board.. And ladybird blades. It might not be $18 dollars if u bought all the parts now.. . But it sure is fun to fly using a 500mah battery..
I used the original 328 tail motor holders to hold the motors..
It's not very affected by slight changes in cog

v929 directDrive (1 min 35 sec)

Originally Posted by gilcd85

I know this was discussed in the past but I want to make sure I get this right..
Do you need to reverse the direction of two of the AliExpress 7mm motors when connected to the V939 board? If yes, how do you do it?

all the motors turn the other way for v939 compared to v929 so if you have two types then reverse them all. if you have one type then two of them need reversing. post #1 photo 12c shows how mine were wired for v939 board.

Thanks mystman!
I have:
- AliExpress 7mm - blue/red
- 7mm Hollow Cup LB - blue/red & black/white (4 of each)

So when connecting the AliExpress motors I just solder two in reverse & the hollow cup motors should be easy enough to figure out..
Now all I need is for my V939 to arrive - it was shipped almost a month ago

Originally Posted by mystman

Yes. Which motors do you have red/blue or black/white?

Black/White : solder 2 motors black/black & white/red -2 motors reversed.
Red/Blue : solder 2 motors blue/black & red/red -2 motors reversed.

In short: 2 Motors have to be soldered reveversed to the Micro JST Cable

Originally Posted by LittleMo

It broke very cleanly which makes me think the problem I have is that I used lacquer to coat the motor fixture but the polyurethane glue does not stick very well to it. I guess I'll have to eventually do it the slow way with the polyurethane coating... or maybe use a different glue.

i think the pu is sticking very well but the paint is coming off. i tried many ways of treating the paper but the "slow way" is the only really strong one. slow drying of the pu oil base allows it to soak into the paper making for a strong composite material. believe me, if i found a way to do it that takes less than a couple days i would. you might try a complete ring of pu foam around the holder like in my pics.

of the 2 dozen quads built so far with paper tube/bamboo not a single one has sustained frame damage. and some crashes have been full speed into the asphalt. broken props...yes, bent shafts...yes, worn brushes...yes, broken wires...yes, damaged frame...not one yet.

I have only been able to find a two component oil based PU enamel so I basically have to mix a batch every time I make tubes.
Is this what you are using or do you have a secret single component PU enamel source?

Originally Posted by dave1993

i think the pu is sticking very well but the paint is coming off. i tried many ways of treating the paper but the "slow way" is the only really strong one. slow drying of the pu oil base allows it to soak into the paper making for a strong composite material.

Originally Posted by dave1993

i think the pu is sticking very well but the paint is coming off. i tried many ways of treating the paper but the "slow way" is the only really strong one. slow drying of the pu oil base allows it to soak into the paper making for a strong composite material. believe me, if i found a way to do it that takes less than a couple days i would. you might try a complete ring of pu foam around the holder like in my pics.

The paint was added after the glue and I did have a complete ring of foam. It snapped off cleanly everywhere it was stuck to the lacquer and no where else. That's why I'm thinking that the pu glue does not stick to the lacquer I used. I'm not sure what kind of lacquer it is but it is not pu oil like you used.

I'm sure the pu glue will stick excellent to the pu oil coating. That's surely what I will end up doing since it works so well for you. Thanks!

im using parks "pro finisher" floor emanel from home depo. it was $15 a quart and $17 for a gallon so you might guess which way i went. its still good after 3 years now. every few months i fill a bottled water bottle to dip things in and coat things with.

somebody posted a photo of it along with a few other types earlier in this thread (mystman probably, if i know that guy ). i tried water base and it was no good. maybe other type of enamel or laquer will work but if it dries fast then not so tuff beacuse it donr sink in.